At immobilizer:

BU/RD/BK door safe, pass. = BU/RD, driver side

BN/GN door contact, pass. = BR/GR/WH, driver side

BU/WH door locked, pass. = BU/WH/BN, driver side

All should show ground when the microswitch is closed. I'll confirm how they should operate when I get a chance, but probably not until tomorrow.

I truly appreciate all your help. Thank you for going out of your way to help me with what has been one of the biggest frustrations on my car.

Glad to help. My findings have been added to the quote below:

Thank you. I will check these as soon as I get the chance. While researching last weekend I did discover that the passenger side regulator is shot.

What's most curious to me about it not unlocking is that when you hit the unlock button, it does illuminate the interior lights. So it is getting the signal from the key, just not working properly. I have also noticed that if I unlock it manually it doesn't unlock the passenger side, and when I open the door it sets off the alarm.

Took the car to my Indy shop for an unrelated issue. It had been smoking out of the passenger side scoop since the rebuilt engine was installed. Turned out to be a bad spark plug tube seal. However, while it was there I had him pull all the alarm/central locking codes. He says there were multiple codes and wrote me up a work order. Haven't picked the car up yet, but I'll report back with their findings. Should shed some light on whatever is wrong.

Well, here are the trouble codes. List is a mile long.

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psgzfworkt.jpg

Yikes...looks like a bad door lock mechanism is behind some of it. Probably passenger side, based on your previous posts. Maybe Woody can get you one at a decent price. That should solve your locking issue.

I'll try that 1st. Andrew at the Indy shop seems to think the CLU/immobilizer are the issue and suggested I send it to ECU doctors. He says they use them all the time and have had great experiences with them.

That easily could be the issue, as well. They will code a good immobilizer with your existing immobilizer's coding to match the car. I think they charge about $500 for that.

I was playing around on Amazon this morning and came across this:

Car Remote Keyless Entry System With HAA Flip Key Remote Controls And Outside Code Learning Button And LED Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RAI0P9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WeY4vbNCE9Y0Z

Same unit, with a Porsche/VW key blank attached to the remote.

That looks nice can those blanks be cut to fit our cars? Just an FYI, I used a place called S.O.S. Diagnostics to repair my immobilizer and they charge around $525.00 or $495.00 on ebay. I guess mine is fixed but my key fob still doesn't work, but maybe that's in the fob itself. They do sell programmed keys for around $200.00 but they need your immobilzer to do that or just a replacement key without the fob for $45.00.

Yes, it's the exact same key blank. It is missing the little "pill" that goes in it that communicates with the immobilizer. However, it should be fairly easy to move your existing one to the new key, and it's only about $20 to have a locksmith cut the key to match your existing one. If your immobilizer isn't damaged, this would be a good way to replace a broken or non functional remote like Particlewave did.

Oh, and I can't find that seller on eBay.

That's a great idea, I think I'll be doing that. It would be nice to have keyless entry and I need another key, I only have one so if I lose it I'm you know. The seller on ebay user name is sos-101. Here's the ebay link, it looks like he raised his prices to $545.00, I paid $495.00 a few weeks ago.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porche-Boxster-911-996-PAS-M535-Alarm-System-and-Programming-/261993196096?fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3APorsche%7CM odel%3ABoxster&hash=item3d0002ea40&vxp=mtr
Thanks for the reply!

Nice find! I'm not a fan of the flip key because of how far it sticks out of the ignition, but I may have to try it anyway.

Awesome
 

Let me just start by saying this is great info, I too did not have a remote for the 99 boxster and now I do thanks to you!:dance:

Nice :)

I'm glad that this is getting some use!

Just got mine from the post office. It has a install instructions like this:

Just got mine from the post office. It's got install instructions like this:

http://tntautotuning.com/pics/keyles...tions-octo.jpg

Couple of questions.

1. Do I just use Fig 3 negative trigger? So in my case I would have to attach Blue and Yellow/Black wires to the cars ground and Brown to cars Brown/white and Yellow to cars Brown/red?

2. Where I can get easily +12v in the car?

3. How about the trunk actuator? There is only Trunk release output (Purple). Do you know to where I should attach that in the car? And how do I know if it is positive or negative output? I think it might be positive so I would need a relay there.

Big thanks to you guys in advance!

I can't remember what color it is off the top of my head, but 12v + comes in to the immobilizer. It's red and can't remember if it has a stripe or not.

Just a bump to get this awesome DIY back to the top for our newer members. Still on my to-do list.

Just do it! :D

The range on this thing is nuts! I'm not a great judge of distance, but it has to be at least 200ft...possibly twice that. I know it's at least double the range of my wife's Mazda and my sons Volvo. I think that is likely due to the fact that the fob uses a 12V battery vs the 3V button cells in most factory units.

2 years later and I'm still on the original battery and no noticeable decrease in range. :)

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...56DD988601.jpg

Hello, I know it's an old thread but the wiring colors on mine are the same as the ones in this post. Does anyone know how it should be wired? I got the parking lights to work properly but that's it, it's not locking or unlocking. I probably have it wired wrong. If the immobilizer isn't working correctly would that matter? I don't think it would but just checking. I had mine repaired but who knows, if it's really working correctly. Any help is appreciated.

You want to use diagram "C".

1) On the aftermarket keyless entry module, ground the blue wire and the yellow wire with black stripe.

2) Connect the keyless entry module's brown wire to the OEM immobilizer's brown wire with white stripe for lock.

3) Connect the keyless entry module's yellow wire to the OEM immobilizer's brown wire with red stripe for unlock.

Do not cut the OEM immobilizer's lock and unlock wires. Just tap into them.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1490396407.jpg

Thanks particlewave, that's a big help and thanks for the original post! It would be nice to have keyless entry working on the car.

Thanks particlewave, I really appreciate it and thanks for your original post. It will be nice to have keyless entry working on the car hopefully.:D

I finally got mine working. The locking button wasn't working on the fob. I had the wiring wrong, I had it hooked up to the brown wire with a gray stripe, instead of the brown wire with a white stripe. It looked like a faded white stripe to me, lol. I was so glad when I saw that the correct wire and knew I found the problem. If you don't want to take the seat out of the car, you can unbolt it and move it forward enough to get to the immobilizer. That way you don't have to unplug the seat so you don't have to worry about setting off any codes like the airbag code. It's a pretty easy install in hindsight as long as you have the wiring correct. It's probably a 30-60 minute job if you don't screw up like I did. There are a total of 8 connections and 3 are grounds if you don't hook up the trunk release which I didn't. I noticed too my horn beeps once after locking it, just like the factory one and the lights flash once when locking and twice when unlocking. Thanks again particlewave for your help!

That's great to hear! :)

Unless you hooked up the horn function on the aftermarket keyless entry, the beep means something is not closed or secure. It's usually the center console lid. ;)

Hi particlewave, thanks for that information. I did not hook up the horn function and didn't realize the beep meant something's not closed. My frunk was not latched, so that must have been why it beeped. I'll have to check that out! That's good to know. :cheers:

I never did get mine to function properly. I did learn a few things.

1. My window regulator was shot, and that's why the window wouldn't drop
2. The microswitch and led in the drivers door were not hooked up. They are now.
3. The gas door lock actuator in my car is broken. You can hear the motor on it spin but the hear seems to be striped. I have a new one I just need to install it.
4. I'm not 100% certain, but I THINK that's why the car won't unlock with the key. The lock is isn't sensing it hit the limit in either direction and is giving an error code for both.

Am I way off base with my thinking or is that a possible solution?

A faulty gas door lock actuator won't prevent the door locks from working. I'd start by grounding the lock and unlock wires at the immobilizer to see if the door locks work properly. If they do, the problem is in the door latch mechanism or the wiring between it and the immobilizer.

Edit: I forgot about all of your issues and related codes. I'd still start with the grounding test and see/report what that does. Did you ever test or replace the door latch mechanisms?

I have checked the microswitches on the inside door handles. I have not checked the switches at the locks. Honestly I was frustrated with it last time I worked on it, so I haven't really messed with it much in the last year or two. It was only when I put the new window regulators in last week I decided to mess with it again. I checked the door handle microswitches and realized that the passenger side interior handle switch wasn't hook up. It's fixed now.

I'll play with it some this weekend. What's the most curious part is that it locks and unlocks with the remote just fine until the alarm arms about 20 seconds after it's locked. Then it won't unlock anymore.

Hi I have a 99 2.5 and I'm installing keyless entry and mine is doing exactly as you describe. I have run a supply directly from battery so rules that out. Also I ran a wire from brown / red to earth and nothing but as soon as you use the key (only fitted to drivers door) you can lock/unlock until the alarm/immobiliser disables it

What I'm thinking of doing is running a temp supply to actuator as the unit still grounds just need to know what wire feeds it

I replied to you on Facebook, Craig. If can lock/unlock with the key, then there's no reason that the keyless entry module wouldn't work. Can you post pictures of the instructions that came with it and a close up of the wires you tapped for all connections?

Put photos on Facebook as easier. I'm having the exact symptoms as switchcomb. As he needed to reverse the unlock/lock function. ( also tried a different remote kit to rule that out)

I was thinking about wiring (connecting) the trunk release which I haven't done. I've read the previous posts covering that but I was wondering if installing a relay is necessary and if so can it be installed under drivers seat? I did pull the cover off of my unit and it looks like there are 3 relays in there. I just don't want to damage the unit, I have a relay I can use if I have too. Any insight is appreciated.

Do you hear a click from the unit when you press the trunk button? If yes, then it's on a relay already. ;)

Good point! I don't hear anything when I press the trunk button, so I'll assume there is no relay for it. Thanks for your help particlewave!:eek: