Further to my previous post, have been puzzling over the circuit diagrams, wondering if I'm on the right lines...

1. My kit came with a siren and a wire to run to it, but it's a bit big to fit under the seat so I was wondering if I could instead use it to get the horn to sound? Any idea if this would be possible by splicing into a wire in the bundle, and if so which one?

...looks like I might be able to splice onto the BK/YE 'alarm horn' wire, although as mine's only an M531 not sure if I'd even have the physical 'alarm horn' fitted?

2. Any idea if there's a wire I can splice to get a 'key on' signal, or might I have to take this from the fuse box?

...possibly BK/BR 'Term 15 In'?

3. There doesn't seem to be a combined 'door open' signal. I currently have it hooked up to just the drivers door, any idea how I could go about combining the separate door open signals into one 'either door is open' signal? (I'm guessing some kind of relay, but a bit out of my depth...?)

...according to Car Security and Convenience Alarm Sensors and Triggers I should be able to combine the 2 negative door inputs in parallel with just a couple of diodes?

Also, anyone know what the BL/RE(/BK) 'door safe' wires are? I'm currently using the BR/GN(/WT) 'claw blank' wires for door open indication, is this correct?

I guess the answer to all of these is just 'try it and see', but hoping someone with more knowledge than me might help me avoid frying something in the process :)

Thanks again.

Just read your message and went out to check. Unlock works as it did before - what that means is that the drivers side locking mechanism has been broken for a while. When necessary, I would just lock/unlock from the passenger's side.

One thing that prompted me to investigate keyless entry was the passenger locking mechanism was beginning to get tricky.

It is baffling that I can just cut the brown/red wire and have one side no longer connected.

Big thanks to particlewave and healthservices for helping me work through the issues and get my keyless system working!

Re my Q3 below, turns out it's easy to get a combined door open signal with a couple of one way diodes wired up to each door input as described in the link in my previous post. Still interested in any info on the other questions though...

TIA!

Ok, I finally had enough of the lack of a remote and looking like an **************************** every time I don't walk over and let my wife into the passenger side because it can't be unlocked from outside the car, and ordered a central locking unit. It should be here this week. I was researching wiring on an 02 and found this.

http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/PORSCHE%20BOXSTER%201997-2002.pdf

I would like the parking lights to flash, and I'm pretty sure there is a wire in the immobilizer for both left and right. Anyone know which wire I am looking for? If not I can trace it down, but knowing off hand would make it a heck of a lot easier. Also plan on making the trunk work. I'll have to read up more on that.

Making the horn honk when armed would be best. Better than having to look for light flash

I could be happy with that too. Or, even both. The horn however, is all the way up in the column and I'm not sure there's a horn wire running to the immobilizer. If there is, I'll hook both of them up.

At the immobilizer on 2001 and up:
Turn signals left = Black with White stripe, turn signals right = Black with Green stripe.
Alarm horn = Black with Yellow stripe.

That's exactly what I needed. Thank you sir.

Well, I got my module today. Tried to hook it up in the dark, which didn't work out too well. It locks with the unlock key, and won't lock at all. I think I may have reversed the wires. Not sure. I'll check in the AM.

Well, got it to lock and unlock properly. The wires were labelled wrong on the schematic of the controller. Confirmed it with a multi tester. They were backwards. Also had taped into the wrong red and brown wire.

Now I'm having a problem where once the alarm engages I can't get it to unlock with the remote. Also couldn't figure out the trunk so I saved it for another day. This car really frustrates the living **************** out of me.

Odd. Does this happen when you use the key in the door?
If you have it all wired correctly, locking/unlocking with the remote is no different than doing it with the key in the door.
How are you powering the new unit?

It's wired right into the imbolizer. Power coming from it, grounded at the ground lug under the seat, and tied into the imobilzer for the lock unluck signal. Couldn't manage to get the truck to open with the unit so I gave up. I'm beyond frustrated with this car.

When you turn the key sometimes it unlocks both doors, sometimes it doesn't. I'm betting it's going to need work on the imobilzer which is going to piss me off.

Which immobilizer wire did you tap for power?

The one under the seat.

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psyzrsiy48.jpg

http://youtu.be/5Eqb-DOoauM

Before the alarm kicks on it works fine.

I was wondering which wire specifically because it may be a wire that is inactive once the system is armed. In other words, the power to the 3rd party keyless entry may be powered down once the system is armed.

I guess if the lock function still works when armed, then probably not.

When unlock with the new remote doesn't work, does the key in the door still unlock both doors (even if just occasionally)?

I'll have to check that. The lead that runs to the DME is live all the top. If you put the top down, or sit in the car and activate it you can hear it clicking and the lights flash, just won't unlock the car.

For locking and unlocking, you are using the brown wire with the white stripe and the brown wire with the red stripe, correct?

Yes. Brown and white and brown and red.

Nbeard
 

Help guys I am new to this forum I need a new 3 button key fob should I trust buying one on the Internet and take it to the dealer or should I just go to the dealer and spend the big bucks?

I just checked. Unlocking with the key only unlocks the passenger door.

And you did just tap into those wires, not cut them, right?
Unlocking with the key only unlocks the passenger door, but unlocking with the new remote doesn't unlock either door?

Tapped into the wire not cut it. The key only unlocks the drivers door. 02s don't have a key for the passenger side.

The remote will unlock it for the 1st 10-15 seconds after you lock it. Once the alarm arms, it won't unlock. Once you turn the key on in the ignition it clears the alarm and it will lock or unlock again until the alarm arms again. I did notice today that of you are in the car and the alarm is armed and you open the door it will unlock the passenger door. I'm thinking if there's a wire that can be tapped to send that signal that the handle as been pulled and that may unlock it all. Don't know which of the 30 wires that lead to the imobilzer and I don't know which one it is.

Brown wire, green stripe, white bands (BN/GN/WH) for the inside door handle microswitch (ground contact).

Now, another question: is it unlocking when you pull on the handle a bit, or when the door actually unlatches at the mechanism?

I'm wrong. Just played with it some more. Sitting in the car, locking it and setting the alarm, pulling the handle sets the alarm off. Stick the key in the ignition, turn the key, and it clears it.

It gets more and more frustrating. The only way I could think to fix it would be to trick the imobilzer into think the ignition is on for a second. Not sure that can be done without the key close by though.

One more thing. When it's locked and you hit the unlock button, it turns the interior light on like it should. Just won't unlock.

Still, if you can unlock it with the key in the door once armed, you should be able to do it remotely since the module is just closing the circuit, same as the key.
I'll have another look at the wiring diagram...there is one more wire to try.

When you unlock it at the door with the key, do you hear the lock/unlock actuator activate?

Ok. Thanks for all your help. It really helps me to have someone who has such knowledge. I can follow a basic schematic and cut and solder. But this car is a lot more complex then the VWs I'm used to.

http://youtu.be/kyEypH9qlB8

That's strange. Seems that turning the key does not unlock the passenger door or disarm the alarm either. Could something be wrong with my imbolizer?

The remote door lock mechanism just grounds one side of the circuit. Check for voltage on the other side when the alarm is on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Please forgive my ignorance and lack of having a schematic. How do I check for voltage on the positive side?

That is odd. I can hear the actuator activating, so the immobilizer is getting the unlock signal from the door lock mechanism. My first WAG is something amiss in one of the door lock mechanisms (bad microswitch, possibly passenger door closed).

Actually you just check that negative signal wire for 12 volts or battery voltage when the alarm is on. Grounding that wire will lock or unlock the door.

In attempt to clarify, when the alarm is on check the negative signal wire, you should see battery voltage when it is not grounded. If there is no battery voltage, that is where your issue is. I think for whatever reason there's no power to the door locks when the alarm is on.
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1.4 volts coming out of both the lock and unlock signal, no matter if the alarm is armed or not.

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...psg20cltae.jpg

Not good.

Further testing shows that the window doesn't drop when the passenger door is opened. Makes a sound like it does, but in fact does not drop. May be getting closer. Particlewave you may be on to something.

Played more and did a bit of googling. The window isn't dipping because the regulator is bad. Also, seems that the fuel door lock actuator is toast. It doesn't lock. However, as much as I want them to be, none of theses things are why the alarm is causing it not to unlock.