|
Quote:
|
I haven't had time to dig into the PCB on the mechanism. Been working like 70 hours a week. However, with all the extra work, I finally had the money to order a PC based laptop and durametric. Just ordered it about an hour ago. With it, I think I can dig a little deeper.
|
Well, my durametric cable came today. I hooked it up and read the codes. There were 10 or 12 of them. Like a dumbass, I cleared them before I screen shot it. None have returned yet. What's weird though is none of the activations would work on the alarm module. I only played for about 10 mins. This weekend I'll dig farther.
|
Well, some of the codes came back. I downloaded the diagnostic manual and can't find the flow chart for error code 60 or 49.
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...pshqtuaxnn.png |
Hi had a chance to play today did all switch testing all ok all connections good. I have the same mechanism as you Sean cm2. Still no luck once the Immobiliser kicks in loose all power until I open with key and turn ignition on
|
Found this website scroll down to section 90 for Immobiliser fault finding v12.dyndns.org
|
Has anyone been able to figure this out? My factory remote recently gave up the ghost as well and I turned to Ebay for an aftermarket solution. I have an 02 Base and after wiring up the unit, I can also get the doors to lock and unlock. Unfortunately, similar to the previous posts, once the dash LED kicks on (30 seconds after the door locks), I cannot unlock the doors using the remote. I have an M535 immobilizer.
Thanks in advance. |
That actually makes me feel better. Maybe it’s something in the M535 that causes it not to function the way it would with an m531.
|
I know I'm repeating myself, but it shouldn't be any different than locking and unlocking using the key in the door. If the key didn't work in the door after 30 seconds, that would cause some serious issues.
I wish one of you guys were closer to me so I could solve this thing once and for all. :( |
Quote:
|
Quote:
I can unlock the driver door manually with the physical key but I have to put the key in the ignition within 10 seconds or the alarm goes off. |
Mine does exactly the same thing.
|
Sean - do you still have that list of trouble codes?
|
I can pull them when I get home from work.
|
I can see it now. The picture wasn't showing up last night.
I was going through the 2000 or so pages of the workshop manuals and thought I'd do some more checking. I doubt any light will be shed, though...and it looks like you have already looked in them. |
Quote:
You have to turn the key in the doorlock to the right for approx. 10 secs and hold it there. Than turn the key left and the central locking system will open the car. Also the alarm system is deactivated. You can try to resync the keys to get the original keyfobs to work again. Regards, Markus |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
None of the key resyncing procedures I've tried have worked...and I've tried all of them. |
Quote:
This is exactly what mine does. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Quote:
Mine is the M535, so that's not it. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1529729873.jpg |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Blue/green/red (blue wire, green stripe, red bands) for lock and blue/yellow/red for unlock (the same wires lock/unlock the front and rear trunk levers on models with release levers vs buttons).
|
I ran into some money. I’m going to start trying to replace and diagnose this issue. I found a PDF of the original diagnosis chart. Complete with values and what to test. Car gets a new top on Thursday and when it comes back I’ll dig in. I suspect one or both of the lock mechanisms has failed. The diagnostic chart thankfully tells you how to tell. They’re 350-400 bucks.
|
Quote:
|
I called ECU Drs yesterday. I’m going to send it off to them. They’re going to verify it’s functioing properly, and program an extra key for me. As soon as it gets back from having the new top installed I’ll send the CLU and ECU to them.
|
Ordered new door locks yesterday and sending the CLU and ECU to ECU drs this weekend. Wish me luck.
|
Passenger door lock is in. No change. Will report back after I replace the drivers side. None of the activations in durametric work still. About to box up the immobilizer and send it out.
|
Ive owned this car since December of 2013. I finally get the time, money, and things sorted to send the CLU and ECU to ECUDoctors, ship it off yesterday (from VA to FL) and of course, there’s a hurricane. Shipping pretty much shut down. Box is sitting in Laurel MD and will be there who knows how long. I just want to know what’s wrong with the car. I’ve waited long enough.
I know, trivial for those that are in the path of the hurricane, but I’m being selfish for a min. |
Quote:
|
Well, they got it today. Got an email around 1130 that they were looking at it. Never heard from them and they close at 4. I’m really curious to find out what’s wrong with it. I’m also having them reprogram the original key and sell me an additional remote.
|
ECU doctors is done and it’s on the way back. They replaced the immobilizer. As I knew, it had water damage. They were able to get a new key to work with the old unit, but the codes it was throwing they believe are because of the water damage. They programmed and new key for me while they had it. It should be there on Tuesday. Hopefully the issues will all be solved.
|
Did they give any clues about what the actual issue was?
Unlikely, but would be nice to know. |
They didn’t offer any insight. However, the new immobilizer is brand new. It works perfectly with the Porsche key, it does the exact same thing it was doing before with the 3rd party key. So my theory is that perhaps this particular model of M535 isn’t compatible with it for some reason. There are 2-3 M535s. They actually were able to get the old immobilizer to work fine, they just wouldn’t warranty it due to the water damage. Nevertheless, I now have a functioning key, and valet key.
|
after market keyless woes
Hi Guys, I have read this whole thread twice but cant get my door locks to work. I have a 2003 base, I also have the M535 unit. I have the tail lights successfully working when I hit the lock/unlock on the remote but thats it. I found the brown/white wire for sure but there seems to be two brown/red wires? Is the wiring different for the 2003?
thanks in advance, Dave |
Quote:
Yes |
keyless
lol thanks, I was hoping someone could help me out and share a schematic or maybe know which wires that I need to tap into?
Quote:
|
Quote:
There should only be one brown/red wire. There is a brown/red/black wire (brown wire, red stripe, black bands), so make sure you didn't get them mixed up. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:48 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website