Engine Removal, Rebuild, and Re-installaion

[Jamesp]

More progress made now that I can take a little time off work.



Two things I would do differently are 1) Take many more pictures. I took maybe 50 during disassembly, 3 times that amount would have been better. Wide shots of the whole engine from every possible angle, and close ups of everything before it is taken apart. 2) More blue tape - I labeled every bolt and put them into ziplocks for each item removed and labeled the items for general assembly, but I did not label every connector in the wiring harness. I'd strongly recommend doing that for assembly. I finally figured it out but took a most of an afternoon to do it. I also tried to cheap out and reuse the brittle plastic vacuum balance tube. Crack! Pelican Parts, here I come. :ah:

After receiving and replacing a few items over the next few days, it will be time to put the engine back in the car.

Here are "before" pictures



Note the oil on the manifold under the power steering pump and all over everything else in that area



I intend to post pictures of the installation as well.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by dbergondy

Your project looks good (just saw your 12/23 post)!

I have a 2001 Boxster S with IMS failure ... trying to figure out what I should do!

Thanks for all of the pictures and information.

I've learned a lot in this process - The members in this forum have been great and I appreciate all the advice and knowledge they gave to me. If you have the time, space and money to rebuild the engine, it is worthwhile if you have that interest. I drew the line of rebuilding at whether or not the valves hit the pistons. If the valves contacted the pistons it would be time for a different engine. I would make that same decision today.

[Jake Raby]

Congrats!
You accomplished something that many professionals are afraid of, and even more try and fail.

I would think that after this accomplishment you have a new found respect for what it takes to work with these engines at an in depth level everyday.

Love to see people tackle issues and win!

[Jamesp]

So after chasing down and correcting a wiring error and a related missing standoff / clamp, the clutch alignment tool ordered over a week ago, with two day shipping, finally arrived. It says "Ford 03" on it, what a surprise. Additional progress has been made:



I'll be installing the engine in the coming days. I have identified 18 connections between the car and the engine and made a checklist. after I have verified it, I'll post it for future reference.

[Jamesp]

Engine has beem installed in the car, cranked, failed to start, members of this forum identified a valve timing issue, engine removed, retimed, and who knows, maybe it will start when it is installed again. I've learned a lot, and if this motor fails, a 911 motor goes in, or maybe I branch out to an LS1. The main thing is to keep on learning.

[Jamesp]

It's alive!!!! bu wa! ha! ha! ha! ha!!!!, Got the engine re-installed and cranked it up. Cranked and idled smoothly at first, then the idle fell off and got thready, a little gas to keep it going and then 3 bangs and I shut it down quick. I was sure that was curtains and the CEL came on. It threw an O2 sensor low voltage, a "random misfire" and misfires from both sides of the engine. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, I fired it back up. Much less drama this time. It was still searching for idle, and all the oily hand prints were buring off the engine. So I shut it down and cleared the codes. It fired right back up again and I let it get warm at idle, took it to 2000 rpm (very smooth) then back to idle for a bit, 2500 rpm then idle for a bit, 3000 rpm, then idle all smooth. Idle was much improved but not perfect. Gauges seemed proper, no warning lights and no more CEL. BUT, when I put it in gear, and let the clutch out, it made a noise like clashing gear teeth. My thought was it sounded like the flywheel just touching the starter gear. It did that twice and then quit. Ideas?

[PhilNZ]

"When I put it in gear, and let the clutch out, it made a noise like clashing gear teeth. My thought was it sounded like the flywheel just touching the starter gear. It did that twice and then quit. Ideas?[/QUOTE]

Just to clarify. Gearbox can be engaged/disengaged ok, all gears are selectable with engine running and clutch in, but when clutch out bad noise and no drive to wheels?

[Jamesp]

Turns out when you let the clutch out, the car moves, and you may, or may not turn the steering wheel. If like me, you are low on power steering fluid, you may or may not get the clashing noise directly in your right ear. Affter topping up the power steering fluid, the problem was resolved.

[MFozz]

Great thread!

[woodsman]

Yippee! A fantastic accomplishment. Thanks for posting.

[AP328]

Very impressive, well done and excellent thread!

[Jamesp]

Details of the rebuild:
Everything touched was cleaned and repainted as necessary
Heads sent out .010 out of flat corrected, new seals installed, valve job
All timing chains replaced
Chain ramps replaced
Main Bearings replaced
Thrust bearings replaced
Rod bearings replaced
Clutch disc replaced
Clutch pivot in transmission replaced
Engine seals replaced
Air oil separator replaced
Pistons and rings cleaned. Original piston rings reused
Plastic balance tube replaced
Intermediate shaft replaced with a modified IMS to reduce the chance of IMSB failure
Pelican parts IMS bolt/sealing parts used
Nachi high temp Viton sealed IMS bearing installed
New connecting rod bolts
New front motor mount

Non engine items:
New horns
Both window regulators fixed with the bicycle cable adjuster trick
Birds nests and other trash deleted from the front radiators
Broken plastic tabs on the rear wing plastic cover glued with epoxy and plastic cover re-installed
Headlights polished to remove yellow haze
Car detailed

[Barteur]

Wow just saw this thread, congrats on the rebuilt I wish I have the guts to do this one day! I am pretty sure its an awesome learning experience and you probably end with a different view of the car when driving it.

[Jamesp]

I was asked to bump this thread and report out how it turned out. 14,700 miles later this is still my daily driver and it just doesn't get old. Top down, wailing flat 6 every day, very nice. I hit redline at least 4 times today - I need to pick that up a little. I have to say that the forum was super supportive during the rebuild. It would not have come out nearly as nice without everyone pitching in, with a special thanks to Jake Raby and the other professionals on the forum for giving their encouragement, knowledge and advice. I planned to take the IMS bearing out at 15, 000 miles to inspect it just to see if my modified IMS shaft worked then replace it with new bearing for grins, but now I'm thinking more like 20,000 miles... Thanks to all.

[NewArt]

Interesting that this thread came up again today, as I was just thinking about doing some major surgery on my 3.2. I have had the engine out once to do the chain guides ( mine's a 5 chain) but I've not gone deeper. It is a very rewarding as well as educational experience.
Congratulations on you successful endevour and thanks for posting your update!

[Disaster]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

I was asked to bump this thread and report out how it turned out. 14,700 miles later this is still my daily driver and it just doesn't get old. Top down, wailing flat 6 every day, very nice. I hit redline at least 4 times today - I need to pick that up a little. I have to say that the forum was super supportive during the rebuild. It would not have come out nearly as nice without everyone pitching in, with a special thanks to Jake Raby and the other professionals on the forum for giving their encouragement, knowledge and advice. I planned to take the IMS bearing out at 15, 000 miles to inspect it just to see if my modified IMS shaft worked then replace it with new bearing for grins, but now I'm thinking more like 20,000 miles... Thanks to all.

Awesome. I did a rebuild to a Fiat 124 spider years ago and it was a similar "get your feet wet" learning experience. The original engine in that car had a connecting rod failure that went through the side of the block at about 105k miles. I beat the snot out of that car...driving 90mph on the freeway on a long drive to work. Replaced it with an engine from a coupe that had a low 60k miles which I tore down. The valves were coated with a this layer of "coke." I used a wire wheel to remove the carbon build up and replaced the valve seals.

So the original owner got 120K out of the car before the bearing failed? Do you know what oil the original owner used? Do you know his oil change interval...ie. 5k, 10k?

[Lapister]

James, Quite a project to take on, glad everything worked out. Could you possibly explain in short what it takes to actually get engine out? Mainly, how high the car has to be for it to drop down.

[flaps10]

Jamesp! Why did I have no idea you had an engine thread on here? I knew you'd been inside for sure but didn't see the pictures or get the story behind the tear down.

One thing I cringed for a moment on was when I saw that pic of the wrist pin clip. The phone pic was very clear but it looked to me like the clip wasn't seated properly (some sticking out at the top). Could be the angle I guess. Obviously it's in just fine if it hasn't popped out in all this time.

Your main bearing description sounds identical to mine, at about the same mileage.

[madmodz]

The thread came in handy to look at some hoses after I pulled my intake off.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Lapister

James, Quite a project to take on, glad everything worked out. Could you possibly explain in short what it takes to actually get engine out? Mainly, how high the car has to be for it to drop down.

I found higher is better. It really depends on the jack used to lower the engine. I took out the rear crossmember after carefully marking its installed position with spray paint for reassembly. I then took out the entire drive train. There are many connections between the engine and the car. I suggest using the 101 projects book as a guide.