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Old 07-23-2014, 07:06 AM   #1
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(The all are basically the same,right?)
Back to this: Yours is a pretty tricked car with the 3.6L and all so like I said, let's give it a go with a spare ballast kit I'll send you in a day and we'll take it from there.

Fingers crossed

Yes to your question. AMP connectors
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:49 PM   #2
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See here. Same issue on a 996.

This is news to me, also. Funny that the above link was posted today on the 996 forum. Not sure if his are xenon, OEM or what.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:07 PM   #3
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You might try

Connecting a 10W 500 Ohm resistor across the +12V in on the Ballast, this will sometimes create a feedback loop and trap the spurious RF that is being generated bye the ballast...this will sometimes trap it in a loop...like a hamster in a wheel. You might have to experiment with the resistance to get to the right value. I had to cross this bridge years ago with a BMW that had the same problem. This has nothing to dso with the Canbus funsction
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:22 PM   #4
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It exist yes. Found 4 or 5 documented cars on the internet after an extensive research having the very same issues. For some reason, that I don't understand, most of these pcars, if not all, had either engine/DME swaps, rebuilds or had their ECU hacked into at some stage.

Where is the link some may ask, well apparently your guess is as good as mine.

At the minute all I can confirm is that CANBUS HID kit Charles and I offers works with the following:

1) Boxster (986) 2.5/2.7/3.2
2) 911 (996) all models

^ of course, only those models running "stock" engines, DME, immobilizers, and TMS.
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:22 AM   #5
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It exist yes. Found 4 or 5 documented cars on the internet after an extensive research having the very same issues. For some reason, that I don't understand, most of these pcars, if not all, had either engine/DME swaps, rebuilds or had their ECU hacked into at some stage.

Where is the link some may ask, well apparently your guess is as good as mine.

At the minute all I can confirm is that CANBUS HID kit Charles and I offers works with the following:

1) Boxster (986) 2.5/2.7/3.2
2) 911 (996) all models

^ of course, only those models running "stock" engines, DME, immobilizers, and TMS.
Nine8Six thanks for the testkit! Funny to see that someone else has exact the same issue. I will test the new Ballast and get back to you. The second step will me using a resistor as Pdwight suggests. Let's see!
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:02 AM   #6
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Nine8Six thanks for the testkit! Funny to see that someone else has exact the same issue. I will test the new Ballast and get back to you. The second step will me using a resistor as Pdwight suggests. Let's see!
I'd say the first step should to be Dwight's advice

He knows his stuff believe me, just too bad he's playing low profile (noob style lol)
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:51 AM   #7
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I'd say the first step should to be Dwight's advice

He knows his stuff believe me, just too bad he's playing low profile (noob style lol)
Ok. I wil try his advice. But just to be sure: Ill try the resistor and place it between the original stock +12V connector and the Ballast. Correct? (I am not a electrical expert )
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:07 AM   #8
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Good timing, Hubert - I've just hung-up with an engineer working at the manufacturer of that ballast. He told me it already has a 5 ohm 50 watt resistor built-in circuit which is used apparently to fool computers by simulating the resistance of an traditional halogen bulb. This + a EMC filter (he mentioned capacitors?? RF canceller). The manufacturer also reassured us that there are both open & short circuit automatic protection that will trigger & tested within 1~2ms. So to him he is not too worried for your car

However he mentioned that whatever your problem is, to them it is not caused by their unit but more of an underlying electrical condition that your car (and some others apparently) is likely suffering of. That underlying electrical issue being amplified by the ballasts

Whatever that means mate. We change car?! I would mind a 3.6L fast Boxster

Like Dwight recommend, I'd still add some resistance on the circuit and see how things goes.
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:57 AM   #9
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Yes and no.
We first need to know what the problem is in order to solve it. Possibly AC feedback, but we don't know for sure. A capacitor to shunt any AC to ground is a good idea, but let's start with a new ballast
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:36 AM   #10
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I'm on it! Just been swamped!
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:26 AM   #11
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Standby for now!

If you have a minute dig out what Hubert's car looks like and made of. He is big & fast enough to figure out a way out of this with the pro in NL (Retrofitlabs). I'll go check these guys out see what they do there.

That is H's 3.6L BOXSTER (wroom wroom!)

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Old 07-25-2014, 09:18 AM   #12
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WOW! That car looks great!

Would do the headlight mod too, but the german TÜV won't give his OK for that. No chance to make such mods road legal in germany.

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Old 07-25-2014, 05:07 AM   #13
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My question for all of this (tossing a rock in the dark) some folks had weird issues with the Litronics pop up in another thread. They would not self level, etc etc. It appears to have been fixed by replacing a particular relay. Does that relay exist in the non litronic cars, if so could one be effecting the projector lights in this case?
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:15 AM   #14
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My question for all of this (tossing a rock in the dark) some folks had weird issues with the Litronics pop up in another thread. They would not self level, etc etc. It appears to have been fixed by replacing a particular relay. Does that relay exist in the non litronic cars, if so could one be effecting the projector lights in this case?
Our friend Hubert will sort his issue no worries bro, nice of you reaching and trying to help out. The truth is, often simply changing ballasts with ones that has higher rated capacitors/resistance solves those weird problems. Trouble is you need to try a few and that can be annoying, or you might get lucky and the first one you try is spot-on (Hubert, fingers crossed).

-or- other similar patches to fix old car's fluctuating and/or weakening voltages includes adding "aftermarket" resistor & high power capacitor packs. Or even simpler, moving your high powered lighting system away from that car system and feed it directly from the 12v battery with a relay/harness. Cheaper than slamming in new batteries and alternators for sure (read I'd do the patching thing also lol).
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:46 PM   #15
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can you fit projectors into the fog light area on the headlight?
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:05 PM   #16
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The fog light reflector is only 4cm tall, so it would have to be a tiny projector. I have not had any luck finding any that small.

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Old 07-25-2014, 09:42 PM   #17
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It's not the LEDs. They are on load resistors, so even if all but 1 went out, the car would never know the difference (the resistor emulates a bulb).

Are you running halogens or HIDs in the units? What type of ballasts are you using, if HID?

Edit: my best guess is that you are also running HIDs and that this problem is being caused by AC feedback in the line from a faulty ballast.
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:28 PM   #18
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Because the symptoms are the same as Hubert's, I wonder if bat is running HIDs...?

I'm leaning toward faulty ballasts as the cause, but hard to tell without concrete evidence or information.
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Old 07-26-2014, 07:52 PM   #19
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Because the symptoms are the same as Hubert's, I wonder if bat is running HIDs...?

I'm leaning toward faulty ballasts as the cause, but hard to tell without concrete evidence or information.
We've taken this up in the correct thread Charles. Thanks for your apocalyptic assumption btw lol 20,000volts AC feedback into the system.... you watch Preppers (Nat Geo HD, 21:00)?

Here the follow-up link for our friend Bat: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/53288-freaking-out.html
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:04 PM   #20
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Hahaha! Good stuff, buddy

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