Track Pads Questions

[husker boxster]

To add to or reiterate some of the sage advice already given...

It takes longer to get your 986 or 987 up on jack stands and the tires off than it takes to replace pads. It's a very easy process on these models (and 911 variants). IF you're going to be doing multiple DEs per yr, you can zip tie the wear sensors away from the pads since you'll be "in there" to monitor the wear. Unless you bring a spare set to the track, NEVER start a DE if your pads are less than 50%. You don't want to go home early b/c you've run out of pad.

As you progress up the run group ladder, you'll prob wear out OEM pads in a weekend as your driving becomes more agressive. OEMs will work (for a w/e) but they were also designed for quiet performance on the street. You'll need to find the right pad, whether it's a street / track pad up to a strictly track pad. If you go with a street / track pad, you give up a bit of bite but have lower dust and less rotor deterioration. Upper level pure track pads will give you plenty of bite (when warm) but will be dusty, noisy, and chew up your rotors. Only you can decide what works for you on the track and your wallet. Your home track may be tough on brakes or it might be easy on them - every track is different so it becomes difficult for us to recommend the perfect solution (but we'll try). Ask around the paddock what others are using and what are the pluses and minuses (there will be both). Just remember, everyone makes their own decision on cost vs performance and you need to figure out what works for you.

When replacing pads (either going street to track or back from track to street), bed the pads in. I do 20-60-20mph runs 10 times. You should smell your brakes by the end. Others will have their fav way to bed them in.

Defn learn how to bleed your brakes yourself. There are several good tools avail to allow you to do it by yourself. Buy one. Many use Motive, myself included.

[MaxD]

One point of clarification on PCA tech.

From the latest national minimum standard tech form:

Brake Fluid*: Sufficient brake fluid; premium fluid recommended. Brake fluid must be changed at least annually __ ** Date brake fluid was last changed: ____/____/20____

Local regions may require a brake system bleed prior to all events, this is just a minimum standard.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with bleeding your brakes before every event. It also allows you to take a look at your pads (inners can wear at a different rate sometimes) and suspension as well.

Agree on the Motive bleeder - just don't stick fluid it, use it only as a pressure source.

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by MaxD

One point of clarification on PCA tech.

From the latest national minimum standard tech form:

Local regions may require a brake system bleed prior to all events, this is just a minimum standard.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with bleeding your brakes before every event. It also allows you to take a look at your pads (inners can wear at a different rate sometimes) and suspension as well.

Agree on the Motive bleeder - just don't stick fluid it, use it only as a pressure source.

Come on MaxD let's not get stuck in the weeds... name of the game is SAFETY. And one of the first question I ask any student during my 3min brief before getting in their car is about maintenance (who does and last time brakes bled - ESPECIALLY if a Mustang, Camaro or other domestic with notoriously undersized calipers, pads, rotors.)

Anywho... also from latest national PCA DE minimum standards:

Clothing and Helmet
All car occupants must wear a Snell approved helmet, which has the current available Snell rating or the one previous Snell rating. Other helmets are acceptable if they are approved for PCA Club Racing. Footwear must be enclosed, non-slip, with a relatively smooth sole. Hiking type deep lugged soles are not acceptable.

So all one needs is a snell approved helmet and closed toe shoes to participate in a DE. Everything else in between optional. Got it

Agree - use Motive bleeder only as pressure source - do not fill*.
(If you're a shop using everyday that's a different story but for avg DIY/track guy, use dry - much less mess and makes clean up a snap).

Good luck

[bcrdukes]

Thanks for the healthy discussion gents.

Since you guys mentioned bleeding brakes, have any of you tried the Schwaben bleeder from Pelican Parts? If so, how does it compare with the Motive bleeder? I ask because the Schwaben bleeder is on sale.

[jmitro]

Originally Posted by MaxD

Agree on the Motive bleeder - just don't stick fluid it, use it only as a pressure source.

I don't understand this rationale. if you bleed enough, the fluid will run out and then you'll get air in the MC.
Crack open a new cannister of brake fluid and use half of it to bleed instead of the full liter.

[The Radium King]

Originally Posted by jmitro

I don't understand this rationale. if you bleed enough, the fluid will run out and then you'll get air in the MC.
Crack open a new cannister of brake fluid and use half of it to bleed instead of the full liter.

i used to put brake fluid in the bleeder and had to to the big wash and rinse afterwards. even so, residual brake fluid would leave a white film in the bleeder. by using it as a pressure source there is no clean-up, just have to keep an eye on the reservoir while bleeding.