Will 18x9 fit on the front?

[Kroggers]

Interesting. I am currently running 18x8.5 and 18x10 with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 225/40 & 265/35.

The car is a dedicated racing car 2001 Boxster S which has been remapped. I will have to dyno the car again, but hope to be close to 300BHP. I am also running with a 2.5 5 speed gearbox with an LSD for better gearing.

Like I said above, I will be putting on the AIR Boxster rear fender flares which gives an extra 2" so could maybe even go up to a 18X11.5 or 18x12 rear wheel. I would have liked to get the current 18x10 that I am running in the rear to fit in the front as then I will only need to get new rear wheels

[Topless]

Originally Posted by Kroggers

Interesting. I am currently running 18x8.5 and 18x10 with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 225/40 & 265/35.

The car is a dedicated racing car 2001 Boxster S which has been remapped. I will have to dyno the car again, but hope to be close to 300BHP. I am also running with a 2.5 5 speed gearbox with an LSD for better gearing.

Like I said above, I will be putting on the AIR Boxster rear fender flares which gives an extra 2" so could maybe even go up to a 18X11.5 or 18x12 rear wheel. I would have liked to get the current 18x10 that I am running in the rear to fit in the front as then I will only need to get new rear wheels

Unless you are running a 3.6L or turbo you are probably nowhere near 300rwhp. Get it on a true dyno so you know what you are working with. Oversized wheels can work well in AX but slow you down on large tracks. Too much unsprung, rotational weight and straight line rolling resistance. The fastest Boxsters in SoCal are running 245/275 tires.

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by Topless

Unless you are running a 3.6L or turbo you are probably nowhere near 300rwhp. Get it on a true dyno so you know what you are working with. Oversized wheels can work well in AX but slow you down on large tracks. Too much unsprung, rotational weight and straight line rolling resistance. The fastest Boxsters in SoCal are running 245/275 tires.

+1 on that !

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by Topless

Unless you are running a 3.6L or turbo you are probably nowhere near 300rwhp. Get it on a true dyno so you know what you are working with. Oversized wheels can work well in AX but slow you down on large tracks. Too much unsprung, rotational weight and straight line rolling resistance. The fastest Boxsters in SoCal are running 245/275 tires.

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

+1 on that !

He did not say 300RWHP, he said 300BHP, which is certainly attainable with a 3.2 motor, if not economical. Putting a 3.6 in a Boxster has to be at least a $10,000 undertaking unless your labor is free.

If things like emissions, efficiency and streetablity are of no concern, 300BHP should not be a huge undertaking for a 3.2, nor insanely expensive.

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by shadrach74

He did not say 300RWHP, he said 300BHP, which is certainly attainable with a 3.2 motor, if not economical. Putting a 3.6 in a Boxster has to be at least a $10,000 undertaking unless your labor is free.

If things like emissions, efficiency and streetablity are of no concern, 300BHP should not be a huge undertaking for a 3.2, nor insanely expensive.

Regardless if it's WHP or BHP, that's way too much unsprung rotational mass to effectively improve performance on any level.

[Kroggers]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

Regardless if it's WHP or BHP, that's way too much unsprung rotational mass to effectively improve performance on any level.

OK, so I need to go smaller - how about 265/35 on front and 295/30 in rear?

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by Kroggers

OK, so I need to go smaller - how about 265/35 on front and 295/30 in rear?

I don't have much experience when it comes to race/track applications. However, based on the size(s) of the wheels alone, one would have to think that you're adding a tremendous amount of unnecessary weight. Especially, considering the fact that it's unsprung rotational mass.

[LAP1DOUG]

Originally Posted by Kroggers

I am also running with a 2.5 5 speed gearbox with an LSD for better gearing.

Off topic, but I'm glad to hear this works. I had been thinking about trying this myself for the lower final drive ratio.

[Jittsl]

I would be Really surprised if there is any speed advantage to be gained by going beyond the 8.5" wheels you are already running. Only a stopwatch will tell you but let me ask. Do you feel as if the car is under - tired as it stands? Also, what tires are you running and is there any restriction on what you are allowed to run?

Laurie

[Kroggers]

Originally Posted by Jittsl

I would be Really surprised if there is any speed advantage to be gained by going beyond the 8.5" wheels you are already running. Only a stopwatch will tell you but let me ask. Do you feel as if the car is under - tired as it stands? Also, what tires are you running and is there any restriction on what you are allowed to run?

Laurie

You are probably correct, and there will be no benefit in going wider than I already have.

Do I feel that the car is under-tired, not sure. I do feel like I could do with more grip at times, but that can also be altered with suspension and a better driver

There are no restrictions on tire make or size for us. I am running with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup. I was running with the Toyo R888 last year, but could not get used to them and find the MPSC much better.

I am currently running 1st in class and 2nd overall in the 2012 Porsche Sports Cup Scandinavia season here in Finland, and just looking for that extra advantage for next year and thought that maybe a bit more rubber on the track might help?

[Jittsl]

Are Hoosiers available where you are? If so they would certainly be quicker. Slicks (from any of the major makers) would be faster again. I'ld be looking there before thinking 1/2inch of extra wheel. R888s are **************** as all of us who drove them in SpecBox last year found out.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Kroggers

Interesting. I am currently running 18x8.5 and 18x10 with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 225/40 & 265/35.

The car is a dedicated racing car 2001 Boxster S which has been remapped. I will have to dyno the car again, but hope to be close to 300BHP. I am also running with a 2.5 5 speed gearbox with an LSD for better gearing.

Like I said above, I will be putting on the AIR Boxster rear fender flares which gives an extra 2" so could maybe even go up to a 18X11.5 or 18x12 rear wheel. I would have liked to get the current 18x10 that I am running in the rear to fit in the front as then I will only need to get new rear wheels

Kroggers you did well last year with what you have, DFIU!

Run the same wheels with 245/ 285/30 or 285/35.

285/30 is shorter than what you had= lower gearing or 285/35 is taller= taller gear.

Too much of anything is always too much!

[Kroggers]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

Kroggers you did well last year with what you have, DFIU!

Run the same wheels with 245/ 285/30 or 285/35.

285/30 is shorter than what you had= lower gearing or 285/35 is taller= taller gear.

Too much of anything is always too much!

I have been back and forward on this so long now I am starting to go mad

Having calculated the cost to get new wheels etc, I have decided it will not not fit in my budget for the 2013 season (I still need to pay out for the body work etc as well).

So with some thought I am going to do something close to what you are suggesting. I will run next season with my current wheels which are 18 x 8 and 18 x 10 and widen the track with adapters - cheaper than getting new wheels etc.

If I run these wheels with 285/30 on the rear and 225/40 or 235/40 on the front, then that gives me a half way to where I am considering going and I can see if I need more corner traction for the following season or not

The issue with the front is that Michelin recommend that you do not go wider than the 225/40 on a 18 x 8 wheel. They say that at a push a 235/40 can be used.

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by Kroggers

I have been back and forward on this so long now I am starting to go mad

Having calculated the cost to get new wheels etc, I have decided it will not not fit in my budget for the 2013 season (I still need to pay out for the body work etc as well).

So with some thought I am going to do something close to what you are suggesting. I will run next season with my current wheels which are 18 x 8 and 18 x 10 and widen the track with adapters - cheaper than getting new wheels etc.

If I run these wheels with 285/30 on the rear and 225/40 or 235/40 on the front, then that gives me a half way to where I am considering going and I can see if I need more corner traction for the following season or not

The issue with the front is that Michelin recommend that you do not go wider than the 225/40 on a 18 x 8 wheel. They say that at a push a 235/40 can be used.

It makes no sense why Michelin would say that a 235 tire is suboptimal on an 8 inch wheel. It will fit perfectly well without any concerns.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

It makes no sense why Michelin would say that a 235 tire is suboptimal on an 8 inch wheel. It will fit perfectly well without any concerns.

I fits fine but a wider wheel will stabilize the tread & sidewall.

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

I fits fine but a wider wheel will stabilize the tread & sidewall.

I agree. But, Ive utilized both fitments with great success.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

I fits fine but a wider wheel will stabilize the tread & sidewall.

& this might be your best bet:

4 Fikse Mach 5 Cayman S spec wheels - Classifieds

[Kroggers]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

& this might be your best bet:

4 Fikse Mach 5 Cayman S spec wheels - Classifieds

Thank you for the link, did not know that the Cayman can fit 10 & 11x18 - do they have the same offset as the 2001 Boxster S?

Those are nice wheels, but by the time I have paid out for shipping to Finland and our nice import costs, it would probably cost more than having new wheels made to fit my car over here?