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Old 01-15-2013, 10:39 AM   #41
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Thanks MaxD and Jittsl

I will remove the bay fan.

Max - I have decided to park it for such times as engine is out or manifold is off too. So you have just blocked the hose off that runs under the manifold? I was thinking a breather but if you have blocked it off I will do this.

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Old 01-17-2013, 03:52 PM   #42
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I did try to wake up Brad but I guess he's busy.
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:32 PM   #43
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To revive an old thread, I would just like to share my results from removing the charcoal canister.

I was getting a LOT of vacuum in the fuel tank, it would take 5 or 6 seconds after opening the gas cap when refuelling to equalise the pressure to that of the atmosphere. I was also experiencing the car revving itself at idle, particularly when warm.

Anyway, I removed the canister more or less as described in this thread. No more vacuum in the tank, the car still revs itself a little, although it is definitely at least 80% better than it was. Best of all, no CEL! I did leave the valve at the top of the fuel-filler tube in-situ, although none of the tubes are plugged into it.
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Old 11-18-2020, 05:46 PM   #44
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I know this is a terribly old thread, but I'm hoping somebody who was in this conversation back in the day may be able to shed a little light on my version of the same question. 2000 Boxster S race car. As were others in this thread, I'm also trying to get rid of as many of these EVAP parts as possible, but mine look a little different than those shown here, AND I don't see any mention of whether or not we need to keep the fuel vapor purge valve.

Here's my whole system:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50618552528_4108b2dbc3_b.jpg


Here is a close-up of the purge valve:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50619291511_a72a2052e7_b.jpg


And here's a close-up of the charcoal canister:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50619399242_e360dc3cd8_b.jpg


The letters on colored backgrounds show the various hoses and wires and are the same on all the photos for easy reference.

Here's what I think I know...

1. A, B, and E all go down toward the gas tank.
2. B seems to go INTO the gas tank (I can hear bubbling if I use compressed air in it).
3. C seems to come from the purge valve to the charcoal canister.
4. D comes from the gas filler "cup" in the fender, and down into the purge valve.
5. E goes between the purge valve and...? Maybe the gas tank. I can't tell where it ends up, nor which way the flow may be.
6. F and G are electrical connections on the purge valve.

My questions:

1. Do I have to keep the purge valve, or can it be removed, too?
2. Either way, which of these parts do I need to keep (and/or connect to one another) and which can I remove?

I've tried blowing air down all these hoses and, so far at least, I haven't been able to hear anything at the back of the car...but I may need to have an assistant help me with that.

Any help you may be able to provide will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Last edited by JSG1901; 11-18-2020 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 01-21-2021, 03:28 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by JSG1901 View Post
I know this is a terribly old thread, but I'm hoping somebody who was in this conversation back in the day may be able to shed a little light on my version of the same question. 2000 Boxster S race car. As were others in this thread, I'm also trying to get rid of as many of these EVAP parts as possible, but mine look a little different than those shown here, AND I don't see any mention of whether or not we need to keep the fuel vapor purge valve.

Here's my whole system:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50618552528_4108b2dbc3_b.jpg


Here is a close-up of the purge valve:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50619291511_a72a2052e7_b.jpg


And here's a close-up of the charcoal canister:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50619399242_e360dc3cd8_b.jpg


The letters on colored backgrounds show the various hoses and wires and are the same on all the photos for easy reference.

Here's what I think I know...

1. A, B, and E all go down toward the gas tank.
2. B seems to go INTO the gas tank (I can hear bubbling if I use compressed air in it).
3. C seems to come from the purge valve to the charcoal canister.
4. D comes from the gas filler "cup" in the fender, and down into the purge valve.
5. E goes between the purge valve and...? Maybe the gas tank. I can't tell where it ends up, nor which way the flow may be.
6. F and G are electrical connections on the purge valve.

My questions:

1. Do I have to keep the purge valve, or can it be removed, too?
2. Either way, which of these parts do I need to keep (and/or connect to one another) and which can I remove?

I've tried blowing air down all these hoses and, so far at least, I haven't been able to hear anything at the back of the car...but I may need to have an assistant help me with that.

Any help you may be able to provide will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Hey J, any progress with this project? This is coming up on my to do list and I was hoping you figured these out. I have no idea what goes where, but there should be at least one hose that runs from the evap canister back to the intake manifold and one that will vent to atmosphere somewhere near the rear. I have a feeling that the third line from the evap canister feeds back to the purge valve, which maybe serves to be a central "hub" for collecting fumes and feeding them to the evap canister. That last part is purely a guess though.

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Old 03-27-2021, 08:13 AM   #46
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Hey guys, were you able to figure this out? I am looking to do the same on my 2000 S race car and have this exact same setup as shown in the pics with the labeled letters. Trying to figure out the best way to do this....
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Old 03-29-2021, 04:32 PM   #47
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My place got leveled by a tornado 2 weeks ago so sadly my work toward this project has been put on hold. I'll keep you updated though when I'm able to pick it back up

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Old 03-29-2021, 07:56 PM   #48
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My place got leveled by a tornado 2 weeks ago so sadly my work toward this project has been put on hold. I'll keep you updated though when I'm able to pick it back up

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Oh no, sorry to hear that

I removed all the wiring to the EVAP system, but all the components are still there. So as far as I can tell, I'm just trapping vapor in the charcoal canister but never purging it, so eventually the activated carbon in there will just get saturated. I'm really worried about venting gas fumes in my garage, so trying to figure out the safest solution here. I'm considering a pressure valve with a fairly low threshold that would stay closed when the car is just sitting there, but would open to allow vapor flow as soon as any pressure builds up. The other thing I'm worried about is what would happen in the (hopefully never) case of a roll over. I wouldn't want gasoline running out through the open line and all over the ground.

So ideally, I'm thinking a small pressure valve between the line coming off the tank and before I connect it to the line going out the back of the car. Then cap off the other line (goes to the intake manifold I think) and remove everything else.
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Old 03-29-2021, 08:06 PM   #49
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This is something I posted a while ago, same OP, same pic as above...

Robert, the line from the filter neck is a vent that allows fuel to flow freely when fueling. Don't mess with this, it is the source of agony for those whose have gone awry.

B should be your tank vent. Don't block that off or you will have problems. A should be the filler neck vent line, see if you can trace it to the valve housing at the top of the fill neck

E should run back to the intake manifold and insert where the AOS connection is located. Pop off your inner panels and connect the dots. You may just be able to tell by the hose diameter.

This would mean that the system is set up as follows - 2 vents come into the canister, and when the purge valve opens the vapors flow into the purge valve via C to mix with neck overflow from D and then onto the intake via E.

I think the most important thing here is to confirm that the lines running into the canister are vent lines and to not block them off. I would just Y them back into the purge valve via C. Theoretically you could remove the purge valve assembly and Y everything together but I'm not sure what that would do in terms of unmetered fuel entering the system and it worked likely throw a CEL if you disconnect the wiring harness for those two solenoids.

I should say that I have no idea if any of this is correct, I'm guessing based on my (limited) knowledge of what should be there. This project is on my build list but I probably won't get there soon, but when I do I'll let you know.

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Old 03-29-2021, 08:34 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by ike84 View Post
This is something I posted a while ago, same OP, same pic as above...

Robert, the line from the filter neck is a vent that allows fuel to flow freely when fueling. Don't mess with this, it is the source of agony for those whose have gone awry.

B should be your tank vent. Don't block that off or you will have problems. A should be the filler neck vent line, see if you can trace it to the valve housing at the top of the fill neck

E should run back to the intake manifold and insert where the AOS connection is located. Pop off your inner panels and connect the dots. You may just be able to tell by the hose diameter.

This would mean that the system is set up as follows - 2 vents come into the canister, and when the purge valve opens the vapors flow into the purge valve via C to mix with neck overflow from D and then onto the intake via E.

I think the most important thing here is to confirm that the lines running into the canister are vent lines and to not block them off. I would just Y them back into the purge valve via C. Theoretically you could remove the purge valve assembly and Y everything together but I'm not sure what that would do in terms of unmetered fuel entering the system and it worked likely throw a CEL if you disconnect the wiring harness for those two solenoids.

I should say that I have no idea if any of this is correct, I'm guessing based on my (limited) knowledge of what should be there. This project is on my build list but I probably won't get there soon, but when I do I'll let you know.

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So if I'm understanding that correctly, you're saying that you'd route the vent directly to the intake side, bypassing both canister & purge valve. What happens when the car is just sitting in the garage for a long time without running? Do the vapors just build up and pressurize in the intake? What about when you are burning fuel and it needs to suck air back in to equalize pressure? I guess it can pull it from the intake in that case, which should be fine.

I was initially thinking of creating a Y from the filler neck hose & the fuel vent hose and then running it through a valve like this (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=24924, different size but that general idea) and out through the back of the car somewhere
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Old 03-29-2021, 08:45 PM   #51
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No, don't delete the purge valve. I don't know this for for sure but i think it will be far too much trouble to do so than what it's worth. just delete the canister and route the vent lines directly to the purge valve.

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Old 03-29-2021, 08:50 PM   #52
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No, don't delete the purge valve. I don't know this for for sure but i think it will be far too much trouble to do so than what it's worth. just delete the canister and route the vent lines directly to the purge valve.

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Hmm, ok. I'll need to splice back in some of that wiring (I had cut out all the wiring related to EVAP) to get the purge valve to work again. I'm assuming that the default state of the valve if no power on it is closed?

I guess what I still don't understand is when the purge valve is closed, how does air get in or out (ie, what prevents it from being a closed loop system?).
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Old 03-30-2021, 04:03 AM   #53
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Hmm, ok. I'll need to splice back in some of that wiring (I had cut out all the wiring related to EVAP) to get the purge valve to work again. I'm assuming that the default state of the valve if no power on it is closed?



I guess what I still don't understand is when the purge valve is closed, how does air get in or out (ie, what prevents it from being a closed loop system?).
I just saw your build thread. I didn't realize your building a racer.

You can probably get away with removing the whole thing but you will likely get a CEL. A lot of racers will though, just check your codes prerace. If it's that big of a deal you may be able to delete it with piwis but I don't know for sure. Also, your garage will probably smell a bit like gasoline. As long as your garage isn't too hot it probably won't be horrendous but that's hard to say.

Don't block off the tank vent or filter neck vent lines, you'll regret that. If you delete the purge valve, I would block off the tube going back to the intake or else you'll likely have a vacuum leak.

I don't know the answer to your last question. There may be a valve built into the charcoal canister as a burp valve? It may just act as a resivoir and not actually vent. Not sure about though.

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