Door stuck closed!

[maxbottomtime]

Howdy all,

I'm halfway through replacing my door latches to fix windows that shoot back up before the door is closed. I've got the M535, of course.


Ordered the parts, got drivers side replaced, but had door card off to repaint the trim. Tested it, and it worked! no issue. Interior still in pieces, but time to move on.


Passenger was also doing it, and i had the latch from the same donor vehicle. Pulled apart door card, swapped latch - no pesky key connector on this side, and got it back in place to test.


Closed the door, and it has stayed that way :|

The exterior handle is connected securely, interior pull is in place (and if I pull it, there is some movement in the latch).

I hooked the battery up, hesitant to close doors, or frunk, hit lock, unlock - it's giving me sporadic double beep.


Leading theory is the latch itself is misaligned - need to push down on door to stop latch catch from dragging? I'm trying, it's just me, i'm climbing over the driver seat to passenger, giving it a go from the inside, giving it a go from the outside. What the heck should i be doing differently?

I was hoping to make this a morning project and now i'm fretting i took a usable car and have taken it out of commission this weekend.

Any advice? Give it a hip check from the outside? If i get it apart lower the latch a bit?

The double beep makes me think the donor part (used) might be faulty as well, though i'll disconnect/reconnect the 9 pin on the bottom. Admittedly my microswitch on the interior handle is disconnected, but that tested without issue on the driver side.

[maxbottomtime]

Answering my own question. repeatedly connected, disconnected battery, spamming lock button. Booty bump HARDER than i wanted to give opened it. An hour of panic.

Clearly the yard part, when pulled from inside or out, leaves latch about 1/3 closed. It's goin back. I could lube it up, but the electrical beeping makes me think it failed in more than one way. My old part clearly has wear on the lobe where hte microswitch sits. Maybe some type of jb weld or similar could replace the wear, but for $70 i'll take another junkyard gamble (vs $600).

[elav]

I kept my old latches with the thought of rebuilding them at some point - https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/tech-tips/porsche-986-996-door-latch-replacement-with-vw-part/151397/page1/

[maxbottomtime]

Originally Posted by elav

I kept my old latches with the thought of rebuilding them at some point - https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/tech-tips/porsche-986-996-door-latch-replacement-with-vw-part/151397/page1/

Yeah I'm going to do that with my old ones. I can see the mechanical part that is worn, could solder in new switches.

I just put the original passenger back in. I could get the yard part to lubricate/mechanically operate, but the double beep meant it was toast electronically anyway, so will put a better replacement in.



I did take the opportunity to repaint all the sports silver trim pieces on the door, so at least that is done! Drivers side is working wonderfully.


Now to get back to more pressing matters, like why does the PCCM clone backfeed the acc line in the phone connector, keeping the engine running after key has been turned to off...