Swapping engines

[piper6909]

I found this at Grainger for $5.67! 1 Meter long! You can cut it to whatever size you want. Just taper off the cut end on your new grinder to grind off the damaged part of the thread so you can get a nut on it. Or you can run a nut in from the factory cut end and out the end that you cut to chase the threads.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Fully-Threaded-Rod-M5x0-8-38DK86

And the sell left-hand nuts for $1.61 for a bag of 50.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Hex-Nut-M5-0-80-Thread-22YK31

There's a Grainger in Portland, if it's not far from you. They don't stock it, so you'll have to get it shipped to you or the store for pickup.

P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

You're very welcome, Al. Be sure to open the box.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

I found this at Grainger for $5.67! 1 Meter long! You can cut it to whatever size you want. Just taper off the cut end on your new grinder to grind off the damaged part of the thread so you can get a nut on it. Or you can run a nut in from the factory cut end and out the end that you cut to chase the threads.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Fully-Threaded-Rod-M5x0-8-38DK86

And the sell left-hand nuts for $1.61 for a bag of 50.

https://www.grainger.com/product/Hex-Nut-M5-0-80-Thread-22YK31

There's a Grainger in Portland, if it's not far from you. They don't stock it, so you'll have to get it shipped to you or the store for pickup.

P.S. I got the IMSB tool back, thank you.

Good sleuthing, Al. Alas, I ordered the tool from FunAhead, and it will be here in three days. But I don't see why the rod from Grainger wouldn't do the job after a some modifying. I definitely would have tried it, but I'm feeling the press of time — the folks who own the place I'm renting are putting it up for sale, so I have to finish this engine and get it in the car.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Good sleuthing, Al. Alas, I ordered the tool from FunAhead, and it will be here in three days. But I don't see why the rod from Grainger wouldn't do the job after a some modifying. I definitely would have tried it, but I'm feeling the press of time — the folks who own the place I'm renting are putting it up for sale, so I have to finish this engine and get it in the car.

Understood. Maybe you can post the length of the tool once you get it. It could help someone who wants to make their own. We already know the diameter and thread pitch. I'm guessing 10 to 13CM or 4-5 inches will do the trick.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Understood. Maybe you can post the length of the tool once you get it. It could help someone who wants to make their own. We already know the diameter and thread pitch. I'm guessing 10 to 13CM or 4-5 inches will do the trick.

I would be surprised if Grant hasn't already fabricated one. How about it, Grant?

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

I would be surprised if Grant hasn't already fabricated one. How about it, Grant?

Have you been spying on me? Actually, on the first engine I did I was rather naughty, I just used a tap to change the threaded hole to take a standard right-hand SAE bolt, see post #9 here,
https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/80969-going-through-my-original-engine.html

I then thought about using a smaller bolt that would pass through the threaded hole, with nuts at both ends to accomplish the same thing.
Finally I bought a left-hand die and and some bronze rod and made a couple of tools. It was not easy and not one of my great tool making moments... I thought I had documented it somewhere but can't find it.
It is also possible to use a clamp to compress the tensioner, which I tried the first time round, but the clamp tends to slip off the tangs.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

Have you been spying on me? Actually, on the first engine I did I was rather naughty, I just used a tap to change the threaded hole to take a standard right-hand SAE bolt, see post #9 here,
https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/80969-going-through-my-original-engine.html

I then thought about using a smaller bolt that would pass through the threaded hole, with nuts at both ends to accomplish the same thing.
Finally I bought a left-hand die and and some bronze rod and made a couple of tools. It was not easy and not one of my great tool making moments... I thought I had documented it somewhere but can't find it.
It is also possible to use a clamp to compress the tensioner, which I tried the first time round, but the clamp tends to slip off the tangs.

I watched the video in which you mentioned you had retapped the tensioner to convert it to right-hand threads. That probably wouldn't occur to me, but as always I admired your ingenuity. I showed a couple videos in which you made some tools to a metal fabricator I know and he said, "Give that guy a metal lathe and other equipment and there's probably nothing he couldn't make."