Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Ohhh, I didn't realize it wasn't a standard hex nut. I was wondering why you were referring to 12-point sockets! LOL. Shame on me for not putting two and two together.

They must do that just to screw with us. It's like my Subaru with those 13mm 12-point head bolts. It's the only damn thing on the car with 12-point bolts. I don't know if they're any better than hex bolts. One time I removed a head on a Subaru and the 12-point rounded out. It was a brand new socket, too. I ended up having to drill that head bolt out.

A guy I know didn't have an impact socket, which are 6 point, so he said he was going to use a standard 12-point socket instead. I advised against it. He called me back and sheepishly admitted he had rounded off the bolt's head. "I should have listened to you," he said. I don't know everything, but I do know using a 12-point non-hardened socket with an impact wrench is flirting with disaster.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

A guy I know didn't have an impact socket, which are 6 point, so he said he was going to use a standard 12-point socket instead. I advised against it. He called me back and sheepishly admitted he had rounded off the bolt's head. "I should have listened to you," he said. I don't know everything, but I do know using a 12-point non-hardened socket with an impact wrench is flirting with disaster.

Oh yeah! That's begging for trouble!

[LoneWolfGal]

LN support insists the 1/4"-drive 7/16" deep socket provided in the Supplemental kit "will work." No idea how, in view of the undeniable fact that a screwdriver small enough to fit through it is too small to hold the stud. I will proceed with my plan to modify a 3/8"-drive socket (or an individual box-end wrench, if I can find one).

In the meantime, I'm wrapped up in making an offer on a house, so I haven't had a chance to install the rear main seal yet.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

LN support insists the 1/4"-drive 7/16" deep socket provided in the Supplemental kit "will work." No idea how, in view of the undeniable fact that a screwdriver small enough to fit through it is too small to hold the stud. I will proceed with my plan to modify a 3/8"-drive socket (or an individual box-end wrench, if I can find one).

In the meantime, I'm wrapped up in making an offer on a house, so I haven't had a chance to install the rear main seal yet.

SMH. In the video you linked, even Jake said the screwdriver was too small. Good luck on the house.

[LoneWolfGal]

The 3/8"-drive 7/16" deep socket arrived today. As expected, its diameter is slightly too large to fit in the flange's notch. Not by very much, only a millimeter or so (see side-by-side comparison). A tungsten-carbide drum will grind down the outside circumference in short order. I also need to drill out the structure inside the socket (see photo) so the screwdriver can pass through. Speaking of which, the screwdriver on the left is about the minimum size necessary to hold the stud while the socket tightens the nut. It has to fit though the socket. The small screwdriver on the right is the largest that will fit through the 1/4"-drive socket, the one that LN says "will work." It won't.

[LoneWolfGal]

Here's a screenshot of the socket used in Jake's Flat Six Innovations video. Without question, it's a 3/8"-drive socket. Note the smaller diameter of the business end, which allows it to clear the notch. I'm guessing the center has been drilled out as well, to accommodate a larger screwdriver. I'm going to try to get hold of Charles Navarro and let him know LN's support is confused on this score.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oKlgMNYOxA

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

The 3/8"-drive 7/16" deep socket arrived today. As expected, its diameter is slightly too large to fit in the flange's notch. Not by very much, only a millimeter or so (see side-by-side comparison). A tungsten-carbide drum will grind down the outside circumference in short order. I also need to drill out the structure inside the socket (see photo) so the screwdriver can pass through. Speaking of which, the screwdriver on the left is about the minimum size necessary to hold the stud while the socket tightens the nut. It has to fit though the socket. The small screwdriver on the right is the largest that will fit through the 1/4"-drive socket, the one that LN says "will work." It won't.

Have you thought about griding off these edges of the screwdriver, or a similar throw-away screwdriver? Looks like you can reduce it by about 2mm on each side.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by piper6909

Have you thought about griding off these edges of the screwdriver, or a similar throw-away screwdriver? Looks like you can reduce it by about 2mm on each side.

True, but you would still need a way to tighten the nut on the stud. The 1/4"-drive deep socket would also need modification to fit a larger screwdriver through it, but that socket belongs to LN's rental kit. I'm working on the 3/8"-drive socket now. I was overly optimistic in predicting the tungsten-carbide drum would grind it down to size "in short order." The steel is tough, so it's taking more time than I had figured on. But I'm making progress.