Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

I've been studying a series of videos featuring Jake Raby, particularly one in which he demonstrates how to replace the IMS bearing and rear main seal. Raby is a fount of knowledge when it comes to Porsche engines, much of it esoteric. He mentioned in passing other parts that were candidates for replacement while the engine was out of the car:

oil pressure sending unit
oil pressure sensor (same as previous?)
fuel pressure regulator
rollers for belt
hose clamps
release bearing
air-oil separator (AOS)
crankshaft position sensor
positive crankcase ventilation conduits
grounding strap
VarioCam ramps
timing chain
cam chain guide ramps
slave cylinder on transmission
exhaust clamps

His recommendations were for the 99,000-mile demo engine in the video. Given that my new engine has only 39,000 miles on it, I wasn't planning to replace many parts beyond the IMS bearing and probably the rear main seal. However, replacing some of the parts in Raby's list makes sense to me. I would greatly appreciate additional advice about this, with my engine's relatively low miles in mind.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

I've been studying a series of videos featuring Jake Raby that demonstrate how to replace the iMS bearing and rear main seal. Raby is a fount of knowledge when it comes to Porsche engines, much of it esoteric. He mentioned in passing other parts that were candidates for replacement while the engine was out of the car:

oil pressure sending unit
oil pressure sensor (same as previous?)
fuel pressure regulator
rollers for belt
hose clamps
release bearing
air-oil separator (AOS)
crankshaft position sensor
positive crankcase ventilation conduits
grounding strap
VarioCam ramps
timing chain
cam chain guide ramps
slave cylinder on transmission
exhaust clamps

His recommendations applied to the 88,000-mile demo engine in the video. Given that my new engine has only 39,000 miles on it, I wasn't planning to replace many parts beyond the IMS bearing and probably the rear main seal. However, replacing some of the parts in Raby's list makes sense to me. I would greatly appreciate additional advice about this, with my engine's relatively low miles in mind.

What year and size is your new engine?

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

What year and size is your new engine?

It's a 2.7L M96 out of a 2000 986, not sure what series — M96.1, M96.2, etc.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

It's a 2.7L M96 out of a 2000 986, not sure what series — M96.1, M96.2, etc.

OK, it is a five-chain engine; I would replace the IMS, RMS, AoS, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, flywheel (if it is in poor condition), and definitely the chain wear pads between the cams. WIth the engine on a stand, all of these are simple replacements, in the car some are not so much easy to get at. I would also pull the oil pump cassette, look at the pump gears for signs of wear, and replace the pump drive shaft which is investment cast garbage and replace it with LN's chrome moly steel replacement. I would also consider replacing the PCV valve and line to the AoS while they are accessible, and also the oil level gauge sender for the same reason. A new water pump (factory only), low temp thermostat, and upgrade the engine to the "S" oil cooler, one of the cheapest longevity items you can put on a base engine.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

OK, it is a five-chain engine; I would replace the IMS, RMS, AoS, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch, flywheel (if it is in poor condition), and definitely the chain wear pads between the cams. WIth the engine on a stand, all of these are simple replacements, in the car some are not so much easy to get at. I would also pull the oil pump cassette, look at the pump gears for signs of wear, and replace the pump drive shaft which is investment cast garbage and replace it with LN's chrome moly steel replacement. I would also consider replacing the PCV valve and line to the AoS while they are accessible, and also the oil level gauge sender for the same reason. A new water pump (factory only), low temp thermostat, and upgrade the engine to the "S" oil cooler, one of the cheapest longevity items you can put on a base engine.

Many thanks, JFP. I'm on it.

[LoneWolfGal]

JFP, I wasn't surprised to see cam chain wear pads on your list. I had just watched Jake Raby explain why replacing them is necessary, and he showed exactly how to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocntYwozZBY

I hadn't counted on having to do something quite so invasive to this new engine. However, excessive camshaft deviation due to worn wear pads is mega-undesirable, and the new, improved material they're using in modern wear pads sounds like the answer. The procedure requires special tools, to hold the cams in place, etc. Where do you suggest I obtain them?

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

JFP, I wasn't surprised to see cam chain wear pads on your list. I had just watched Jake Raby explain why replacing them is necessary, and he showed exactly how to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocntYwozZBY

I hadn't counted on having to do something quite so invasive to this new engine, However, excessive camshaft deviation due to worn wear pads is mega-undesirable, and the new, improved material they're using in modern wear pads sounds like the answer. The procedure requires special tools, to hold the cams in place, etc. Where do you suggest I obtain them?

LoneWolfGal, I have the cam locking tool set, I will send it to you if you pay the return shipping after using it, it is a pretty small box (not heavy) :-)