Agree on the creeper, I personally like the feel of old fashion thick card box for laying down on the floor underneath the car.. :p

We live inside a gated community, and every time I see a truck delivering a new appliance, I walk over and ask them for the fridge or washing machine card box, and I use them until they are dirty enough to put them on the trash can to be recycled, sometimes I have three or four new boxes waiting their turn to be used :D

Getting ready to attach a chain to the new engine so it can be lifted. One end will be attached to the hoist hook point provided at the rear of the engine and the other will be bolted to a motor mount hole in front. If some kind person can tell me the size of the motor mount bolts, since I seem to have misplaced the dang service manual, I will be grateful to that individual.

Try this website: https://www.eurospares.com/

I only had a few minutes to search, and this seems to be the correct diagram: https://www.eurospares.com/Porsche/Boxster_986/Boxster_986_(2000)/PartDiagrams/109-000/ENGINE_LIFTING_TACKLE


Good luck.

Thanks, Kevin. Says it's an M10 hex but doesn't say whether it's coarse thread or fine. Coarse would be my guess, but I could be wrong. I've been wrong a time or two, I admit it.

Coarse is a safe bet. That said, buy a couple of each - they’re cheap.

I’ll suggest that you not use pavers under your jackstands. They are not structural and failure will likely be catastrophic.

Wood (two stacked 2x10s would get you that 3” you are looking for) is a much more robust solution.

Thanks for chiming in, Tom. New concrete 12" x 12" x 3" pavers set on level concrete are unlikely to fail. I tried to break one in half to fit a space and gave up when the sledge hammer merely chipped it. And 2x10s alone wouldn't work, due to the jack stands' large footprint. Which is not to say a solid platform couldn't be constructed with them.

I sell 24"x24"x2" pavers all day long. Please... share with me where you're getting these 3" thick pavers.

Even then... I wouldn't be crawling under a car with 2" pavers. I wouldn"t be crawling, or relying on a car to be supported, with 3" pavers. What... no wood up there in Oregon?

I'm following your build... and don't want to be reading in some Oregon rag about some gal found crushed under her car. :cheers:

Are you smarter than Google AI?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1730639101.jpg

I strongly suggest you don't use concrete. Concrete may be strong, but it's very brittle. While your jack stands may SEEM to have a large footprint, the actual total contact point is very small, much less than a square inch.(Unless your jack stands actually have feet, which would make it safer, but I'd still caution against it.)

Flip one of those jacks over and you'll see that the contact points with the floor are just the edges. Those edges under the weight of the car are like a cold chisel hit by a hammer. Chances are that hey will split the pavers just like a chisel. If you tried that sledge you had mentioned with a cold chisel you'd see what I mean. The sledge hammer alone has a wider contact point than all 4 stands combined, so the impact was spread over a wider area.

Use wood. If a 2X10 is too small, cut four 20" pieces of 2X10, lay two side-by-side, then two more on top oriented 90 degrees the other way, and screw them all together. You'll have a 20X20X3 base for the jack stands that won't split on you.

As it turns out, the paver question is moot. A friend offered to lend me four platforms he built out of unfinished 2x8s — two layers at 90 degrees to each other, fastened with screws. He said they're roughly 16" x 16" and 4" inches thick, so I'm gaining another inch.

That said, I'm touched by so many folks' concern for my wellbeing. I do appreciate it.

Glad to hear!! Unless they're TRUE 2X8s, the total height of the platform would be about 3" - 3.5" That's because 2-bys are only 1.5 to 1.75 inches.

Still, better than concrete pavers!

I haven't seen them yet, but he said they were unfinished 2x8s, thicker than finished ones.

I have four sturdy jack stands like this one. They extend to 19.5". I prefer these to the ratchet type, which I've seen fail. I've never seen this type of jack stand fail.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1730937081.jpg

By any chance do you know the rating on these jack stands? They look pretty hefty

8000 lb. capacity

https://www.amazon.com/BESTOOL-Stands-Locking-Support-Capacity/dp/B09KN15PB8

4 Tons has plenty of safety margin and something that I would never exceed (with the kind of vehicles that I usually work on) ..

Thank you for the link!

See message to follow.

I had planned to follow a couple others' example and suspend the engine via a 3-ft chain with one end attached to the provided hoist hook point in back of the engine and the other end bolted to a motor mount bolt hole in front. However, I don't see why the chain couldn't be bolted to another point [see photo], which would have the advantage of making it possible to mount the engine while it's still suspended from a hoist or engine support bar, since the motor mount bolt holes wouldn't be unimpeded. Looks to me like it would be a solid chain attachment point. Do I hear any warnings, cautions, or admonitions against it? If not, it shall be utilized as a attachment point. Sine die.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1731221221.jpg

Someone else can comment on that bolt, but I always have the engine mount bolted to the engine. If I need to attach to it, I run a nylon strap (scrap seat belt) around the frame of the mount and chain onto that.