Grant says: "Shoot, I bet I can make one of those."

There was no damage on it when I pulled it out so I didn't see any risk of just re-using it.

I did the same thing.

Man, am I sick of lying down when I work under cars! After years of that, as soon as I can manage it I'm going to buy myself a 2-post 10,000 lb-capacity hydraulic lift. For around two grand (as low as $1500 on sale) it would pay for itself in convenience and time savings. And I deserve it. For the swap, though, I'll be roughing it again on my creeper.

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https://www.amazon.com/Motool-Technology-ME-H1000-Super-Quality/dp/B0C83QF39L/

Just be aware that ALL post lifts have a minimum thickness and load rating for the concrete they are mounte to………

I was just talking to a guy about that. He said he got around it by bolting the bottoms of the posts to 2' x 2' plates of 1/2" thick steel that are securely bolted to the concrete. Seems like it might work. What do you think?

Me thinks those little steel plates could be three feet thick, and I wouldn't be comforted. I'm also reminded of the old, "... only as strong as the weakest link", and that link is the concrete.

I think you need to find out the requirements for the concrete, bolting on large plates does not negate the mechanical leverage the lift has on the fasteners that hold it in place, and guessing wrong can lead to a major disaster as lifts do a lot of damage when they come loose and topple over. No cheap out band-aides here, the thing can kill you……

I plan to build a new shop in a 20' x 30' steel building, so when the slab is poured I'll make sure it's more than adequate to support the lift. I will pass your and Starter986's warnings on to the steel plate guy and ruin his day. He was so proud of his solution, too.

Your friend's problem is that he is thinking in terms of the lift legs pressing down, which while important is not the potentially fatal flaw, which is one of the legs pulling out of the floor and the lift toppling to one side.

If you are seriously planning a new shop, think in terms of a minimum of 6-8 inches of rebar reinforced concrete, and decide upon what lift beforehand and have the concrete team cast the floor with purpose made steel threaded receivers in the floor when it is poured in the pattern matched to your lift bases. And do not cheap out on the lift itself; I have seen the arms on "bargain" two post lifts fail way below their rated lift max. I have always been a fan of Bend Pak, and owned several, but there are other very well-made lifts out there. And, as I recently told a customer that was complaining about the price of appropriately rated racing helmets, "If you have a $10 head, look for a $10 helmet; but if your head is worth more to you, act accordingly......"

Sound advice, as usual. Great idea about casting threaded receivers in the concrete. I just hung up after talking to Steel Plate Guy. As expected, he was not receptive to any suggestion that his base plates can fail. In fact, he got huffy when I brought it up. But then, women don't have much credibility with him, even though I've forgotten more about engines than he'll ever know.

There is a rating for different strength's of concrete when they are poured, Talk to your concrete guy about your plan for a lift, they should recommend a 24 x 24 " pad or larger, that will be thicker, say 1' deeper than the rest of the floor that will ensure a strong base to bolt to Also consider a 4 post lift they are considered safer. Frank

They're also considered much more expensive. I know guys with both. The 2-post lifts are more affordable and acceptably safe, provided they're securely mounted. The guy who'll do the pour retired after 30 years of concrete work, but he likes to keep his hand in and supplement his retirement income. He'll make sure an adequate thickness of rebar-reinforced concrete is under the lift and threaded receivers for it are cast in the concrete. I appreciate your astute suggestions.

One thing at a time. The swap has priority.

When I installed my two-post, I had to cut out a section of the floor on each side as it was only about 2' thick. I then dug down about two feet and we put in rebar and filled with what I believe is termed "six-bag" concrete. It will be there when the Sun swallows the Earth!

I've moved from there (and miss my lift nearly every day) and considering another. I hope I don't need to repeat the whole process. Cutting concrete is messy!

I observed a 2-poster in action last night. I'm convinced they're the most economical (well, relatively) solution.

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Hello,.Have you considered a scissor lift, They have some that you can set into the floor,And they have different lift height's,..Just a thought incase you didnt consider that..! Have fun planning your shop ! Frank

I appreciate the suggestion, Frank. Although they're useful, I don't believe a scissor lift can raise a car as high as a post lift. I want to be able to stand under there.

Those scissor lifts don't look like they allow enough room to drop a Boxster engine, either.

Most do, and you can also drop it while the car is on a drive on four post lift as well.

But since I don't have a lift yet I'll have to make do with four stout jack stands. With 3"-thick concrete pavers under them, I can get a full 24" of height. Claustrophobia sets in when the car's much lower than that, and besides, the creeper takes up 3". Without a lift, I'll be roughing it — just like the pioneers did with their Porsches!