2002 Boxster S No electrical Power at all

[tcoradeschi]

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

[seningen]

Originally Posted by tcoradeschi

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by seningen

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

This fuse box has a rod that goes through the firewall and plugs with the + battery cable (with a funky connector), this is where the failure occurred on my 987.. just giggle the cable (at this connector) with the ignition on, to see if you regain power.
.

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by Gilles

This fuse box has a rod that goes through the firewall and plugs with the + battery cable (with a funky connector), this is where the failure occurred on my 987.. just giggle the cable (at this connector) with the ignition on, to see if you regain power.
.

I looked for that funky connector but could not locate anything similar.
Will search more.

[Bill Ladd]

@gtstacer - whenever you’ve found your issue, please post here to let us know. So often folks post for answers and then disappear. Thanks.

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by Bill Ladd

@gtstacer - whenever you’ve found your issue, please post here to let us know. So often folks post for answers and then disappear. Thanks.

Have not found the cure yet. Replaced the alternator voltage regulator but did not help.
Had limited time to work on it. Will keep you all updated. Thanks for checking on me.

[gtsracer]

OK, everyone, found the problem. The issue was the defective kill switch, when checked power to the main fuses it was zero amp. Strange, because I thought that was first thing I checked but I guess not.
Connected positive with the main fuse wire and car started like a champ. Thank you all for the help.

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by seningen

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike

Will check some more. Did check 80 amp fuses, seems fine.

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by seningen

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike

I checked that, looks good.
Just removed the alternator today, will be taking it to O'Reilly tomorrow. Found little cylindrical piece behind it on the top of the engine bay.
Have no idea what it is.

[gtsracer]

Here;s another photo of the piece.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by gtsracer

Here;s another photo of the piece.

Don't lose that piece. That is for the alternator bracet. That piece will slip in a hole in the bracket, if correctly I remember/it's been a few years since I pulled my alternator).

The bottom or top bolt that holds the alternator in place will go through that piece.

Unless you're taaking the car to a mechanic... look at parts diagrams so YOU know what that piece is for. No biggy, just don't lose it.

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Don't lose that piece. That is for the alternator bracet. That piece will slip in a hole in the bracket, if correctly I remember/it's been a few years since I pulled my alternator).

The bottom or top bolt that holds the alternator in place will go through that piece.

Unless you're taaking the car to a mechanic... look at parts diagrams so YOU know what that piece is for. No biggy, just don't lose it.

But this one has no treads. I got the treaded piece I already hammered back to a normal position for the bolt to engage.

[gtsracer]

So, today I took the alternator for O'Reilly to test but apparently they are not able to test manual gearbox alternator due to the pulley being clutch type. Go figure...

[tcoradeschi]

Originally Posted by tcoradeschi

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

Originally Posted by seningen

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

D’oh. Missed that completely

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by tcoradeschi

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

Kill switch is the switch to kill all the power to the car in case of accident.