2002 Boxster S No electrical Power at all

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by seningen

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

Since you have a voltmeter -- start measuring voltages at different places around the car -- find an online wiring diagram to find the locations you should have 12v.

Especially check the connector at the front/top of the engine compartment. It sort of a jumped box from the engine area to the front of the car (and your battery). It's a simple post with a 10 or 13mm nut that could have worked its way loose.

There is also the fuse box behind/under the dash/glovebox (if you have one) that connects to the battery and has some master fuses there.

Mike

I checked that, looks good.
Just removed the alternator today, will be taking it to O'Reilly tomorrow. Found little cylindrical piece behind it on the top of the engine bay.
Have no idea what it is.

[gtsracer]

Here;s another photo of the piece.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by gtsracer

Here;s another photo of the piece.

Don't lose that piece. That is for the alternator bracet. That piece will slip in a hole in the bracket, if correctly I remember/it's been a few years since I pulled my alternator).

The bottom or top bolt that holds the alternator in place will go through that piece.

Unless you're taaking the car to a mechanic... look at parts diagrams so YOU know what that piece is for. No biggy, just don't lose it.

[tcoradeschi]

Originally Posted by tcoradeschi

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

Originally Posted by seningen

Racer thing -- not on a street car.

D’oh. Missed that completely

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by tcoradeschi

Re-reading your original post, what’s this “kill switch” you refer to?

Kill switch is the switch to kill all the power to the car in case of accident.

[Bill Ladd]

Sounds like you have a multimeter. Start tracing voltage from the battery and move down the circuit path until you no longer have voltage.

Do you have 12.9v to ground at the line side of the kill switch? If so, do you have 12.9v to ground at the load side of the switch once you’ve turned it to the on position?

I’ve never been around a Boxster race car, but used to race a Formula Ford. Much simpler wiring scheme on a race car. This shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by Bill Ladd

Sounds like you have a multimeter. Start tracing voltage from the battery and move down the circuit path until you no longer have voltage.

Do you have 12.9v to ground at the line side of the kill switch? If so, do you have 12.9v to ground at the load side of the switch once you’ve turned it to the on position?

I’ve never been around a Boxster race car, but used to race a Formula Ford. Much simpler wiring scheme on a race car. This shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

Seems like have 12.9.on all points

[Bill Ladd]

Originally Posted by gtsracer

Seems like have 12.9.on all points

Keep going. Where does the switched 12 volts go from the switch? Keep following that 12 volts until it stops and that’s where your problem is

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by Bill Ladd

Keep going. Where does the switched 12 volts go from the switch? Keep following that 12 volts until it stops and that’s where your problem is

Will do. Thank Bill and all 986 guys..

[Bill Ladd]

Glad you got it sorted!

[seningen]

Where do you have 12.9v? Where do you not?

I had a Spec Boxster that would not start -- but I got the display, but just crank and no fire.
Turned out I had the DME in fuel remap programming mode, by incorrectly sending a 5v signal to the DME.
This is unlikely you're issue.

Right now, if my battery is low-ish, I seem to have to cycle my kill switch a few times to get my display to come on, and thus be able to start my SPB. I monitor the voltage -- and it seems high enough so I'm not 100% sure why that is happening -- I have not diagnosed it any further -- but I plan to replace the battery (mini-ATV battery) before this race season.

Just a datapoint for you.

Mike

[gtsracer]

Originally Posted by seningen

Where do you have 12.9v? Where do you not?

I had a Spec Boxster that would not start -- but I got the display, but just crank and no fire.
Turned out I had the DME in fuel remap programming mode, by incorrectly sending a 5v signal to the DME.
This is unlikely you're issue.

Right now, if my battery is low-ish, I seem to have to cycle my kill switch a few times to get my display to come on, and thus be able to start my SPB. I monitor the voltage -- and it seems high enough so I'm not 100% sure why that is happening -- I have not diagnosed it any further -- but I plan to replace the battery (mini-ATV battery) before this race season.

Just a datapoint for you.

Mike

Appreciate your input Mike. I will be reinstalling the alternator after verify it's ok. Got the new voltage regulator but before changing it wanted to make sure the current one is bad. I hope it is bad.