STI-986
From what I see in your video you "DO NOT" have a vacuum leak
The test for a vacuum leak is like this.
Get the car fully warmed up.
Get idle as close to spec as possible.
Hook the vacuum gauge up.
Let the car idle for 3-5 minutes and observe gauge reading and needle action.
At idle your in the green zone on your gauge. and the needle is very steady.
That is good
Now bring RPM up to 2000 RPM the needle should rise a little and stay steady.
that is what your gauge is doing at 3000 RPM.
If you had a vacuum leak the needle would fall when you held RPM at a higher level.
Do the vac test again. get the car at operating temp.
Do the above test.
Do it closer to 2000 RPM
Then let the engine idle again for a minute or two.
Then do a "snap throttle test"
Go from idle to floored to off throttle very quickly.
Needle should drop to near 0 then rebound above idle reading very quickly.
then it should settle back to idle reading.
Your going to have a little lower vacuum reading at idle then your expecting.
Your reading very very close to my 2000S
The reason is that you have things like vacuum canisters on both your SAI and your EVAP systems along with all the valves and hoses.
If they were blocked off you would probably gain 2 in.hg
Another thing that is going to affect vacuum is the Vario Cam system.
Cam timing changes at around 1500RPM so as you increase RPM the vacuum gauge readings may not be what you expect.
Threaded Mode
