Double din install, handbrake cable?

[Stl-986]

Here is my take on it.

original speakers I believe are 8 ohm (threw all my old ones away so I can't verify). Installing new speakers and using the oem amp is going to cause issues. New speakers are going to be 4 ohm. Quality wouldn't be much a issue, but power will be connecting things up.

The better setup would be to just run rca cables to an aftermarket amp and ditch the factory amp. You could connect the low level wires from the HU to the factory amp to the new amp, but rca cables would be better. It really isn't that difficult and is pretty quick to do. You also dont need to run a turn on wire as there is already one at the HU & amp, just use it.

I am also not a fan of using the Metra or others wiring harness. Not that expensive, but it's just easier & quicker to just cut off the factory connector and wiring things. if you use an afttermarket amp you only need 12+, switched 12+, ground, antenna power, illumination and turn on wire. The rest can be capped off.

What you need to do though is to look at the entire system, your goal, budget, etc and plan accordingly. For example, if you get a HU that only has front/rear rca pairs & a single sub output you need to plan your amp accordioning as well as your wiring. Some amps will have a pass through for connecting a sub amp, some wont. if you only have a single sub output you should connect it to an amp with a splitter so you get the amp to output both left/right for the door speakers. If you want to eventually add the rear speaker tray & speakers, take this into consideration. Wiring isn't that difficult either. You will pay more for HU that has all 6 channels out but it isn't that much more.

There are just so many more options available if you ditch the factory setup when replacing the HU.

When you do want to do the rear speakers let me know I have a kit that is way cheaper then factory.

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Here is my take on it.

original speakers I believe are 8 ohm (threw all my old ones away so I can't verify). Installing new speakers and using the oem amp is going to cause issues. New speakers are going to be 4 ohm. Quality wouldn't be much a issue, but power will be connecting things up.

The better setup would be to just run rca cables to an aftermarket amp and ditch the factory amp. You could connect the low level wires from the HU to the factory amp to the new amp, but rca cables would be better. It really isn't that difficult and is pretty quick to do. You also dont need to run a turn on wire as there is already one at the HU & amp, just use it.

I am also not a fan of using the Metra or others wiring harness. Not that expensive, but it's just easier & quicker to just cut off the factory connector and wiring things. if you use an afttermarket amp you only need 12+, switched 12+, ground, antenna power, illumination and turn on wire. The rest can be capped off.

What you need to do though is to look at the entire system, your goal, budget, etc and plan accordingly. For example, if you get a HU that only has front/rear rca pairs & a single sub output you need to plan your amp accordioning as well as your wiring. Some amps will have a pass through for connecting a sub amp, some wont. if you only have a single sub output you should connect it to an amp with a splitter so you get the amp to output both left/right for the door speakers. If you want to eventually add the rear speaker tray & speakers, take this into consideration. Wiring isn't that difficult either. You will pay more for HU that has all 6 channels out but it isn't that much more.

There are just so many more options available if you ditch the factory setup when replacing the HU.

When you do want to do the rear speakers let me know I have a kit that is way cheaper then factory.

Thanks, I have the Harvey PNP kit installed, powered directly from the old HU.
Think I will take a stepwise approach on this to see what level that is enough for a decent sound
Sony xav is already in the garage. Will use the low level output to existing 996 cabrio amp. Found a cheap cable for this. New coax in dash but keeping door speakers. Rear kit can be powered from HU I think. These speakers shouldn’t need to be connecter to the frunk amp
If this doesn’t do the trick, an aftermarket 4 channel will be next step along with coax also for the doors.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Here is my take on it.

original speakers I believe are 8 ohm (threw all my old ones away so I can't verify). Installing new speakers and using the oem amp is going to cause issues. New speakers are going to be 4 ohm. Quality wouldn't be much a issue, but power will be connecting things up.

The better setup would be to just run rca cables to an aftermarket amp and ditch the factory amp. You could connect the low level wires from the HU to the factory amp to the new amp, but rca cables would be better. It really isn't that difficult and is pretty quick to do. You also dont need to run a turn on wire as there is already one at the HU & amp, just use it.

I am also not a fan of using the Metra or others wiring harness. Not that expensive, but it's just easier & quicker to just cut off the factory connector and wiring things. if you use an afttermarket amp you only need 12+, switched 12+, ground, antenna power, illumination and turn on wire. The rest can be capped off.

What you need to do though is to look at the entire system, your goal, budget, etc and plan accordingly. For example, if you get a HU that only has front/rear rca pairs & a single sub output you need to plan your amp accordioning as well as your wiring. Some amps will have a pass through for connecting a sub amp, some wont. if you only have a single sub output you should connect it to an amp with a splitter so you get the amp to output both left/right for the door speakers. If you want to eventually add the rear speaker tray & speakers, take this into consideration. Wiring isn't that difficult either. You will pay more for HU that has all 6 channels out but it isn't that much more.

There are just so many more options available if you ditch the factory setup when replacing the HU.

When you do want to do the rear speakers let me know I have a kit that is way cheaper then factory.

This kinda how i went but used a adapter for power into the factory harness, power tweeters with hu amp, rca to alpine amp in frunk, made adapter for speker connect back into dash and doors, ran speaker to sub in footwell. Head unit acts as a DSP mid channel gets balanced on the amp between 3 inch dash and 6.5 inch doors. Low channel sub. I cut none of the factory wiring.

I did run a 6 channel from a cabriolet if you trim a tab plugs in no problem, gives you some balance control, i ran my hertz 6.5 with it fir a while with coaxial in dash. Sounded pretty good.

I think the factory door speakers are 4 ohm wired in parallel for 2 ohms and seems the dash was either 4 or 6 ohm. Fell apart though.

[spongebob]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

This kinda how i went but used a adapter for power into the factory harness, power tweeters with hu amp, rca to alpine amp in frunk, made adapter for speker connect back into dash and doors, ran speaker to sub in footwell. Head unit acts as a DSP mid channel gets balanced on the amp between 3 inch dash and 6.5 inch doors. Low channel sub. I cut none of the factory wiring.

I did run a 6 channel from a cabriolet if you trim a tab plugs in no problem, gives you some balance control, i ran my hertz 6.5 with it fir a while with coaxial in dash. Sounded pretty good.

I think the factory door speakers are 4 ohm wired in parallel for 2 ohms and seems the dash was either 4 or 6 ohm. Fell apart though.

Thanks all for the good support given here, much appreciated.
Just found a set of Hertz woofers that I bought 5 years ago but never became installed.
Could the 6 channel cabrio amp be enough for feeding these ?
Just assuming that the HU to these are a big no-no.

The alternative would be to keep boxster door speaker and amp. This would be the easiest way to avoid cutting in cables.

Third alternative would be to use the door speaker money saved and buy a new amp that can feed the Hertz woofers.

Now to many options and not really sure what would give a reasonable good sound. I do not need the deepest bass tones. Think it will just make every loose part in the car to rattle more than ever

I have two weeks now before I will see the car again, gives plenty of time to source all the cabling alternatives and front speakers. Then when back again, I can test all alternatives above.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by spongebob

Thanks all for the good support given here, much appreciated.
Just found a set of Hertz woofers that I bought 5 years ago but never became installed.
Could the 6 channel cabrio amp be enough for feeding these ?
Just assuming that the HU to these are a big no-no.

The alternative would be to keep boxster door speaker and amp. This would be the easiest way to avoid cutting in cables.

Third alternative would be to use the door speaker money saved and buy a new amp that can feed the Hertz woofers.

Now to many options and not really sure what would give a reasonable good sound. I do not need the deepest bass tones. Think it will just make every loose part in the car to rattle more than ever

I have two weeks now before I will see the car again, gives plenty of time to source all the cabling alternatives and front speakers. Then when back again, I can test all alternatives above.

I agree the factory amp will work but not jaw dropping. Albeit depends on what type sound your looking for, with the 6 channel on the four channel set up you can use the fader to adjust the bass mix some. If you just looking for better sound loud enough for cruising it works.

I used a second set of door speaker boxes off ebay to cut up and molded in some .5” mount rings to install the hertz drivers. Plugged it back into factory harness. Door panel fit back over.