Starting a 986 after storage

[blue62]

Originally Posted by djw8282

Thanks for the reply blue62. Notifications for this thread got mixed up in my email so I'm replying late.

Im going to try the started fluid. The battery is fully charged and the engine cranks strong but just won't turn over. I have an aftermarket high-flow intake. Should I spray the starter fluid in the intake where the tubing detaches at the throttle body or closer to the MAF?

The engine was rebuilt in 2016 and has about 40,000 miles on it.

Again, thanks!

First:
check make sure your fuel pump relay and your fuel injector relays are good.
Test them or simply replace them.
That way we know for sure they are not the fault..
The little contact points in them can corrode over time.

Then.....
Spray the starting fluid where the tubing detaches at the throttle body.
Open the throttle body butter fly if you can when you spray the fluid.

So you understand why I am having you do this.
Opening the butter fly gives the starting fluid a better chance of getting into the cylinders when you crank it over.
If the engine fires at all using starting fluid that will tell me that you most likely have a fuel delivery issue...thus it will not fire or start under normal conditions.

If it will not fire using starting fluid then the issue is most likely an electrical (spark issue).
So the results from the use of using starting fluid gives us a direction to proceed with your diagnosis of the no start issue.

Post here what you find from this test.... I will try to help you out if I can

Questions....
You say you have an after market high flow intake.
what changes did you make to the stock intake????
What type of air filter are you using????
Is it dry type or is it an oil on the filter type like a K&N????
Any other Mods to the engine???
What year is the car????

[djw8282]

Originally Posted by blue62

First:
check make sure your fuel pump relay and your fuel injector relays are good.
Test them or simply replace them.
That way we know for sure they are not the fault..
The little contact points in them can corrode over time.

Then.....
Spray the starting fluid where the tubing detaches at the throttle body.
Open the throttle body butter fly if you can when you spray the fluid.

So you understand why I am having you do this.
Opening the butter fly gives the starting fluid a better chance of getting into the cylinders when you crank it over.
If the engine fires at all using starting fluid that will tell me that you most likely have a fuel delivery issue...thus it will not fire or start under normal conditions.

If it will not fire using starting fluid then the issue is most likely an electrical (spark issue).
So the results from the use of using starting fluid gives us a direction to proceed with your diagnosis of the no start issue.

Post here what you find from this test.... I will try to help you out if I can

Questions....
You say you have an after market high flow intake.
what changes did you make to the stock intake????
What type of air filter are you using????
Is it dry type or is it an oil on the filter type like a K&N????
Any other Mods to the engine???
What year is the car????

Ok. I've done a lot of work on my car but my forte is not electrical stuff. I'm not too sure of the exact location of the fuel pump relay and the injector relay. Where are they and how do you test them?? I've seen some posts on this subject but I'm still unsure. I'm killing myself for not at least starting the car and taking a spin.

I have an early version intake that was made by EVO (I think it was the first aftermarket version made for the Boxster). I actually had it on my Base Boxster back in 99, then installed it on my S. I fabricated the tubing to work with a 997 plenum and 74 mm throttle body; I also enclose the box to prevent heat from engulfing the K&N cone filter (oil) as well as wrapping it in heat-deflecting material. Other modifications are Softronics software, race headers, straight pipes, and a GHL muffler. It does have a fairly new Bosch MAF. I have never had an issue with the K&N giving me issues. The car runs great. The car is a 2002 S

Here is a picture of the intake:

[djw8282]

Originally Posted by blue62

First:
check make sure your fuel pump relay and your fuel injector relays are good.
Test them or simply replace them.
That way we know for sure they are not the fault..
The little contact points in them can corrode over time.

Then.....
Spray the starting fluid where the tubing detaches at the throttle body.
Open the throttle body butter fly if you can when you spray the fluid.

So you understand why I am having you do this.
Opening the butter fly gives the starting fluid a better chance of getting into the cylinders when you crank it over.
If the engine fires at all using starting fluid that will tell me that you most likely have a fuel delivery issue...thus it will not fire or start under normal conditions.

If it will not fire using starting fluid then the issue is most likely an electrical (spark issue).
So the results from the use of using starting fluid gives us a direction to proceed with your diagnosis of the no start issue.

Post here what you find from this test.... I will try to help you out if I can

Questions....
You say you have an after market high flow intake.
what changes did you make to the stock intake????
What type of air filter are you using????
Is it dry type or is it an oil on the filter type like a K&N????
Any other Mods to the engine???
What year is the car????

Hey blue62,

I know it's been a long time. I replaced the battery, fuel pump relay, and ignition relay which didn't fix it.

I just tried the starting fluid and it kicked on for a second then shut it down. I put some fresh gas and nothing. I did hear a stretch from the starter. Any suggestions?

[blue62]

Originally Posted by djw8282

Hey blue62,

I know it's been a long time. I replaced the battery, fuel pump relay, and ignition relay which didn't fix it.

I just tried the starting fluid and it kicked on for a second then shut it down. I put some fresh gas and nothing. I did hear a stretch from the starter. Any suggestions?

If the engine "fires" for a second when you use starting fluid but will not start under normal conditions. Then that tells you that there is a fuel delivery issue.
So you have to determine ,,,is the fuel pump bad? or simply not getting power?

[djw8282]

Originally Posted by blue62

If the engine "fires" for a second when you use starting fluid but will not start under normal conditions. Then that tells you that there is a fuel delivery issue.
So you have to determine ,,,is the fuel pump bad? or simply not getting power?

Thanks for the reply blue62.

I have not. if you can detail the steps to troubleshoot in figuring out if the fuel pump is not getting power or a bad pump altogether I would appreciate it. I am pretty mechanically inclined but have not done any work pertaining to the fuel pump. Thanks!

[blue62]

Originally Posted by djw8282

Thanks for the reply blue62.

I have not. if you can detail the steps to troubleshoot in figuring out if the fuel pump is not getting power or a bad pump altogether I would appreciate it. I am pretty mechanically inclined but have not done any work pertaining to the fuel pump. Thanks!

Use a multi meter to test the fuel pump wiring circuit for continuity and resistance.
that will tell you if the fuel pump is good or not.
Use a multi meter to test the the wiring to the fuel pump for power.
If your not getting power to the pump with key on then you have to find out why not.

If you don't know how to use multi meter to test wiring circuits... then go to youtube,
lots of info there on how to do it.

[djw8282]

Originally Posted by blue62

Use a multi meter to test the fuel pump wiring circuit for continuity and resistance.
that will tell you if the fuel pump is good or not.
Use a multi meter to test the the wiring to the fuel pump for power.
If your not getting power to the pump with key on then you have to find out why not.

If you don't know how to use multi meter to test wiring circuits... then go to youtube,
lots of info there on how to do it.

Hey, blue62. I finally got around to checking the fuel pump connections. I am not sure if I did it right, but I did a resistance test of the fuel pump connection points of ground and hot by connecting both probes to a single point at a time for a reading of 0.5 ohms for each. I did the same for the wiring to the pump (connector); testing the ground and hot wires for .0.5 ohms each. The battery was disconnected,