03-17-2021, 06:38 AM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: KY
Posts: 1,213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stroked & Blown
Really living up to that renegade image
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Hah! Touche stroked. The graco turbo booster in the passenger seat really adds to the charisma of screamer pipes lol
Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk
__________________
2000 Box Base, Renegade Stage 1 performance mods complete, more to come
When the owners manual says that the laws of physics can't be broken by this car, I took it as a challenge...
Last edited by ike84; 03-17-2021 at 06:40 AM.
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03-17-2021, 07:59 AM
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#22
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Who's askin'?
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayG
Maytag is correct, you will cook almost any pads before boiling 600, unless its old and has a lot of moisture in it. I used 600 for a couple of years tracking and never had any issues. I would flush each year and bleed before every track weekend. 660 is good for more than just 1 weekend, at least 2 or 3.
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Caveat here, that I've purchased 660 and have it on the shelf, but I haven't ever used it because everything I read steers me away from needing it.
The issue with 660 is that it has a lower] wet boiling point than the 600. (600 is 216°c, compared to 660's 205°c). Dry is higher, but wet is lower.
I already bleed the 600 before every track weekend, and flush a couple of times per season. Obviously this is required because of the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. Heat cycling exacerbates this. So with a LOWER wet boiling point in the 660 I'll need to bleed & flush MORE frequently than I do with the 600.
I've only boiled 600 once (which is why I went to a more frequent bleed / flush interval). As long as that's the case, I don't know why I'd want to change to the 660, creating more work for myself :dance:
Of course YMMV.
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03-17-2021, 09:23 AM
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#23
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag
Caveat here, that I've purchased 660 and have it on the shelf, but I haven't ever used it because everything I read steers me away from needing it.
The issue with 660 is that it has a lower] wet boiling point than the 600. (600 is 216°c, compared to 660's 205°c). Dry is higher, but wet is lower.
I already bleed the 600 before every track weekend, and flush a couple of times per season. Obviously this is required because of the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. Heat cycling exacerbates this. So with a LOWER wet boiling point in the 660 I'll need to bleed & flush MORE frequently than I do with the 600.
I've only boiled 600 once (which is why I went to a more frequent bleed / flush interval). As long as that's the case, I don't know why I'd want to change to the 660, creating more work for myself :dance:
Of course YMMV.
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Yea, what he said 
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
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03-17-2021, 04:49 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Canader
Posts: 46
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That's great to know about the brake fluid guys, thanks. I haven't put the fresh 660 in yet, maybe I'll just go get some 600 and sell the 660. As for the EBC yellows, I'll try them and see. Maybe they'll be ok for the rear and I if they don't work for me up front I can go with something more aggressive.
This car is far from my daily driver and definitely not a dedicated track car. I did all the work "while I was in there" hoping to negate most of the Boxster's flaws and improve reliability. I plan to do maybe 15 track days this year, we'll see how that goes. Everything with a street car/DE car is a compromise and knowing the oiling issues with the Boxster I don't want to go to aggressive with any of my choices for the track. Tires will be a 300 treadwear street tire but I'll run a square 17 x 8.5" with a 245 or 255 all the way around. I'm hoping to run some Bilstein B8's on a more street oriented lowering spring. My days of looking for all out track performance are long gone. I love my Boxster, and tracking it just allows me to do with it what it does best. I don't want to break it so I'll just compromise a bit. Not ideal but if it makes for a reliable, trouble free track season I'll be happy.
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03-24-2021, 05:25 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Canader
Posts: 46
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I'm wondering what brand of rotor I should go with for track use? Is Zimmerman the only recommended or are there others with similar quality(or better)?
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03-25-2021, 04:26 AM
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#26
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenD
I'm wondering what brand of rotor I should go with for track use? Is Zimmerman the only recommended or are there others with similar quality(or better)?
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I have used Meyle rotors for years with several track seasons without any issues or problems. They are also far less $ than Zimmerman. Haven’t bought any in a while, that last ones I got IIRC were around $80 or $90 per axle (pair of rotors)
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
Last edited by JayG; 03-25-2021 at 08:13 AM.
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03-25-2021, 03:09 PM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Canader
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayG
I have used Meyle rotors for years with several track seasons without any issues or problems. They are also far less $ than Zimmerman. Haven’t bought any in a while, that last ones I got IIRC were around $80 or $90 per axle (pair of rotors)
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Good to know Jay, thanks. I found a full set of Pagid rotors rotors for a great price at Rock auto. Thy claim to be made in Germany, anyone have any experience with them?
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04-02-2021, 05:52 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Canader
Posts: 46
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Hi Jay, I sent you a PM, but I couldn't attach a pic. The pads you sent me are not for a Boxster. The part # was correct, the pads are not.
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04-03-2021, 05:56 AM
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#29
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,799
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I don't know what to say, that how they were shipped to me. From the looks of the pads, I think they may be front pads and they were put in the wrong box. IIRC, I bought them either form Summit or Amazon
Is there a part number on the actual pad?
If you want, Ill refund you what you sent me
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
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04-03-2021, 03:56 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Canader
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayG
I don't know what to say, that how they were shipped to me. From the looks of the pads, I think they may be front pads and they were put in the wrong box. IIRC, I bought them either form Summit or Amazon
Is there a part number on the actual pad?
If you want, Ill refund you what you sent me
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Sadly, they're not even base front pads, Otherwise I'd keep them. I'm still trying to figure out what they're for...
*They're part #DP41514R which is for a 996 C2
Last edited by DarrenD; 04-03-2021 at 04:22 PM.
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04-03-2021, 05:02 PM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 2,953
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I had that same thing happen with a set of Ferrodo's. Not sure why it happens but it does.
__________________
GPRPCA Chief Driving Instructor
2008 Boxster S Limited Edition #005
2008 Cayman S Sport - Signal Green
1989 928 S4 5 spd - black
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04-04-2021, 05:20 AM
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#32
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: KY
Posts: 1,213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husker boxster
I had that same thing happen with a set of Ferrodo's. Not sure why it happens but it does.
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I've had the same thing happen with stuff from Amazon, it's getting more common lately.
Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk
__________________
2000 Box Base, Renegade Stage 1 performance mods complete, more to come
When the owners manual says that the laws of physics can't be broken by this car, I took it as a challenge...
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04-05-2021, 07:14 AM
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#33
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarrenD
Sadly, they're not even base front pads, Otherwise I'd keep them. I'm still trying to figure out what they're for...
*They're part #DP41514R which is for a 996 C2
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They will fit a 986 S as well then. The brakes on a 986 S and a 996 C2 are the same
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
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