While you're in there...HPDE track prep
After pulling the engine from my '99 and doing the following work(some was new, some done recently) to prep my car for DE season:
Variocam pads and chains new chain tensioners LN Oil pressure valve LN Cro-moly oil pump hex drive new waterpump LN 160 degree thermostat 996 Oil/Water Heat exchanger Mantis underdrive pulley Mantis 2qt deep sump pan LN magnetic drain plug New LuK dual mass flywheel Sachs Clutch Tune RS DOF IMS RMS New spark plugs (AOS is fairly new) Lower rad hoses Third radiator setup 996 oil pressure sender(for extra oil pressure gauge) LN spin-on oil filter new idler pulley bearings new AOS vent line new spark plug tubes and seals I'm also planning on replacing my coolant tank with OEM Porsche. I've also done Steel braided brake lines, Motul RBF 660 brake fluid, adj. rear toe arms, EBC yellow brake pads, GT3 brake ducts, and I'm planning on Bilstein B8 dampers with lowering springs and something to add some front camber. What else should I do before I re-install the motor(has 100000kms/60000 miles on it)? Thanks |
Looks like you have done a fair bit of stuff, well done!
A couple of things There is nothing special about the LN 160 deg thermostat, any 160 deg thermostat is fine. Motul 660 is probably a bit overkill unless you really cook the brakes. 600 is fine, less $ and last longer too EBC yellow are pretty good streatable track pads. I did have an issue with them and switched to hawk DTC-60. I have a brand new set of EBC Yellow Ill give you a great deal on, have to look to see if front or rear and they are for an S |
Thanks Jay G. All the work and parts have been bought and installed at this point except for the struts and coolant tank. I would be interested in the EBC yellows if they are for a base rear setup.
I went with RBF660 strictly for extra insurance. My home track is Mosport(some hard braking areas) and I want to make sure I don't boil the fluid. It's only a few bucks more per bottle vs the 600. Thanks. |
If you want the 987 airbox because the air filter is about twice the size of the 986 one, the best time to do it is with the engine out. There are threads you can search for how to modify the 987 airbox to make it fit and adapt your MAF to it. Also, 986 S coolant pipes are a larger diameter than the base model and also improve the cooling capacity. I don't know if it's any easier to do with the engine out, but it would make sense to do before putting the coolant back in.
Mosport is a great track. It was the first track I ever did an HPDE on about 5 years ago. Our club started going to Mt. Tremblant after that year, so I haven't been back, but would love to go again! |
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And yes, Mosport is amazing. I remember when NNJR used to come up and share our events, I always wondered what happened? |
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Motor mounts? At least the front one.
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I have no idea what's involved with the cooling pipes. Itsnotanova had a post somewhere here that mentioned that a lot of Spec Boxsters do it, and another post where he compared the two side by side. Enjoy your track season! |
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987 airbox is a great upgrade, as well as custom run 3" intake piping with a simple box for high flow filter. Have you looked at exhaust setups yet? I don't know what your class rules are but if it's a track only vehicle or if you can get away with it in your state, there's a lot of weight and restriction that can be lost on the exhaust side of things. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk |
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DarrenD, you've done a TON!
Well done. I'm sure this will go a long way in making your DE experiences relatively pain free. FWIW; RBF 660 and EBC- any-color is a non-sequitur. You'll cook those pads LONG before your RBF 600 will boil. 660 is really only good for one weekend. To most it's just not worth the extra couple of degrees. Fair warning: if you're one of the faster guys (even in a beginner group) you'll be pretty unhappy with those EBC's in a hurry. Not that they won't last you a day or two, but they're just not up to heavy track work. If you search around, you'll find lots of information about hawk, pagid, PF, etc. I've been REALLY happy with the raybestos. YMMV. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk |
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I should be moving into the top group this season and onto becoming an instructor once Covid goes away(if ever). I used to instruct in our local time attack series years ago but once my kids started into high level sports, that had to stop. I'll put the 660 in and flush it after the first event, no biggie. Thanks for the advice, I'm really enjoying this community. |
I'll second what Maytag said, any color EBC will fade (and possibly give you a big vibration causing you to think that your rotors have warped) if you are moderately quick. I'm a big fan of PFC 08 compound pads. Noisy and dusty on the street, but they work great both on the track and the street.
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Even the DOT approved lines like power stop, stop tech, and goodridge have recommended change intervals between 12-36k miles. I think for track racing, with a good prerace inspection, there shouldn't be an issue as long as you're diligent. For a daily driver though, I certainly don't inspect my running gear before going to the grocery store. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk |
I agree that EBC Yellow are not the ultimate track pad, but they do preform fairly well. Much depends on the track and your driving.
Maytag is correct, you will cook almost any pads before boiling 600, unless its old and has a lot of moisture in it. I used 600 for a couple of years tracking and never had any issues. I would flush each year and bleed before every track weekend. 660 is good for more than just 1 weekend, at least 2 or 3. I did eventually get the vibration Racer Boy mentioned with Yellows, but it was after about 20 sessions at a faster track. I did finally switch to Hawk DTC-60 and loved them. On brake lines, IIRC, Porsche factory ones are braided under the rubber. Unless you have really old or damaged brake lines, you should not be having a problem |
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