2001 Boxster Camshaft issues

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

I just checked the codes and it is now showing the p1341 along with a cylinder 1 and 2 missfire code... at idle both bank 1 and 2 are showing actual camshaft values of .000 or .033 and they are both the same but it still has a lumpy idle....

It may make sense to replace the Cam position sensor at this point.
I hate to just replace parts trying to fix a problem but diagnosing a problem via the internet is um rather difficult.
I don't think the Cam sensor is expensive, the code is referencing it so at this point I would change it out and see what happens.

Poor lumpy idle can also indicate a major vacuum leak.
Keep us posted.

[kbod]

deleted post-

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

Reviewing my timing I got it spot on as shown by the ims camshaft locking tool lining right up when in TDC, but the computer is saying there is 19% on camshaft deviation position 1, I will go ahead and replace the camshaft position sensor. also it would make sense with the vaccum leak, my concern is on cold start it fires right up and idles GOOD. its when the car gets fully warmed up and ive gone through the rpm's a few times is when the idle is really low and lumpy sometimes. would that still be a vaccum leak? or does that rule it out. Lmk if you need any specs off dumetric to help figure out whats going on!

Lets see what your cam deviation shows after you change out the cam sensor.

Then I will describe a way to use your Durametric to test your MAF sensor. Faulty MAF can cause lumpy idle.
But I will tell you how to test it after we see if the new Cam sensor cures the problem.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

Lets see what your cam deviation shows after you change out the cam sensor.

Then I will describe a way to use your Durametric to test your MAF sensor. Faulty MAF can cause lumpy idle.
But I will tell you how to test it after we see if the new Cam sensor cures the problem.

Sounds good, I will order a new camshaft position sensor right now, and I believe the bank 1 sensor is below the air oil separator so Ill use it as an opportunity to replace that since i experience smoky startups sometimes!
thanks for the help, ill report back once i do the swap!

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

Lets see what your cam deviation shows after you change out the cam sensor.

Then I will describe a way to use your Durametric to test your MAF sensor. Faulty MAF can cause lumpy idle.
But I will tell you how to test it after we see if the new Cam sensor cures the problem.

Its quite odd, Even though I got the engines timing right when I first start the car in the morning it runs great. idles amazing, but right when the car warms up the lumpy idle begins. I checked the camshaft deviations at idle after a long drive and camshaft position 1 deviation was at 19.23 degrees and camshaft position 2 was at -6.25, meanwhile their actual angles was 1= .33 and 2= -.13. Given this information is it possible the variocam actuator and solenoid I was sold was a dud and its sticking when activated which explains the car idling great sometimes but like trash other times, and I assume the following missfire codes are the car adjusting fueling to compensate for the bad timing leading to a missfire. What i do know is when I hit the gas the car revs smooth and goes like a boxster should. I know in the future i was planning on replacing my 116,000 mile old ims bearing and also replacing the trans fluid in the tiptronic so maybe I should just drop this engine for an overhaul? I dont know what to do at this point ive alredy taken off the passenger camshaft cover off 4 times becuase the first time I used too much sealant and the plugs popped out, the 2nd time a bolt broke and i had to take everything apart to extract it, and now I am guessing the worst that my "new" camshaft actuator/solenoid are garbadge and I have to redo the whole project.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

Its quite odd, Even though I got the engines timing right when I first start the car in the morning it runs great. idles amazing, but right when the car warms up the lumpy idle begins. I checked the camshaft deviations at idle after a long drive and camshaft position 1 deviation was at 19.23 degrees and camshaft position 2 was at -6.25, meanwhile their actual angles was 1= .33 and 2= -.13. Given this information is it possible the variocam actuator and solenoid I was sold was a dud and its sticking when activated which explains the car idling great sometimes but like trash other times, and I assume the following missfire codes are the car adjusting fueling to compensate for the bad timing leading to a missfire. What i do know is when I hit the gas the car revs smooth and goes like a boxster should. I know in the future i was planning on replacing my 116,000 mile old ims bearing and also replacing the trans fluid in the tiptronic so maybe I should just drop this engine for an overhaul? I dont know what to do at this point ive alredy taken off the passenger camshaft cover off 4 times becuase the first time I used too much sealant and the plugs popped out, the 2nd time a bolt broke and i had to take everything apart to extract it, and now I am guessing the worst that my "new" camshaft actuator/solenoid are garbadge and I have to redo the whole project.

Odd situation.
Have you replaced the Cam position sensor on bank 1 yet?
When you replaced the Cam actuator/solenoid did you check to see if there were the proper number of chain links between timing marks on the Cams?

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by blue62

Odd situation.
Have you replaced the Cam position sensor on bank 1 yet?
When you replaced the Cam actuator/solenoid did you check to see if there were the proper number of chain links between timing marks on the Cams?

+1 on checking the sensor. If the actuator was bad, that shouldn`t affect cam deviation much, only the actual cam angle. If you are in doubt regarding the actuator and solenoid, you can directly inspect them using a borescope. But it`s more likely that something is off with your sensor or timing.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

Odd situation.
Have you replaced the Cam position sensor on bank 1 yet?
When you replaced the Cam actuator/solenoid did you check to see if there were the proper number of chain links between timing marks on the Cams?

There is a little dimple on each camshaft. I used white nail polish to mark the chain link to each dimple on the intake and exhaust camshaft so that when i cut the zip tie holding tension on each camshaft the tension pushed the cams apart but they were still in time. The dots lined up. I reassembled the engine then I did not install the oil scavenge pump, rather I put the camshaft not crankshaft in time, used the IMS camshaft locking tool to hold the bank one camshaft in top dead center timing, then i loosened the 4 bolts on the pullet on the side of the motor and turned the crankshaft to top dead center, inserted a dowel pin on the timing mark then tightened the 4 camshaft sprocket bolts. then i proceeded to reinstall the scavenge pump, removed the ims tool and completed the job. I believe that that is the proper way to time these engines as demonstrated in a thread i read on timing the m96. I have not had a chance to replace the camshaft position sensor, I am still waiting on the package I ordered a few days ago it should be in soon and ill put it in asap. I have previously cleaned my mass airflow sensor, I have not done anything other than a visual inspection for vacuum leaks. nothing is blatantly torn or ruined. Ill do a smoke test if the camshaft position sensor doesn't fix the issue. Im just wondering , if it was a vacuum leak why would the car specifically complain with a p1341 code rather than a generic missfire code. Later today Ill pull off the maf connector and report on what happens as well. and I forgot to mention, the car has no cracked ignition coils they visually look great and it has brand new spark plugs. and its fuel economy has been TRASH averaging 12.6 mpg thereabouts.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

There is a little dimple on each camshaft. I used white nail polish to mark the chain link to each dimple on the intake and exhaust camshaft so that when i cut the zip tie holding tension on each camshaft the tension pushed the cams apart but they were still in time. The dots lined up. I reassembled the engine then I did not install the oil scavenge pump, rather I put the camshaft not crankshaft in time, used the IMS camshaft locking tool to hold the bank one camshaft in top dead center timing, then i loosened the 4 bolts on the pullet on the side of the motor and turned the crankshaft to top dead center, inserted a dowel pin on the timing mark then tightened the 4 camshaft sprocket bolts. then i proceeded to reinstall the scavenge pump, removed the ims tool and completed the job. I believe that that is the proper way to time these engines as demonstrated in a thread i read on timing the m96. I have not had a chance to replace the camshaft position sensor, I am still waiting on the package I ordered a few days ago it should be in soon and ill put it in asap. I have previously cleaned my mass airflow sensor, I have not done anything other than a visual inspection for vacuum leaks. nothing is blatantly torn or ruined. Ill do a smoke test if the camshaft position sensor doesn't fix the issue. Im just wondering , if it was a vacuum leak why would the car specifically complain with a p1341 code rather than a generic missfire code. Later today Ill pull off the maf connector and report on what happens as well. and I forgot to mention, the car has no cracked ignition coils they visually look great and it has brand new spark plugs. and its fuel economy has been TRASH averaging 12.6 mpg thereabouts.

So first:
It is very hard to diagnose a problem via the internet.
Second: It can be very hard to fix a problem that is diagnosed by well meaning people via the internet.
Multiple people will have different points of view on the problem and how to fix it.
As another poster has said simplest things first.

Lumpy idle is an indication of a vacuum leak.
So is stalling out when coming to a stop.
You have both symptoms so I suggested the possibility of a vacuum leak.
Simple and basic.

But you also have the P1341 code which is a Cam position sensor or cam position related code.
Bad Cam position sensor or bad Cam timing can also cause lumpy idle stalling at stops and poor fuel mileage
So in another post I suggested checking the Cam position sensor and its related wiring.
If I remember correctly you found issues with the cam actuator so you replaced it.
But you still have Cam deviation issues. Bad Cam position sensor or wiring (simple and basic) or bad Cam timing (not so basic) are all I can think of as causes.

The P1341 along with the Cam deviation issue is to me the most telling they are why I brought up Cam timing.
But I would change out the Cam sensor first and see what happens. Simple and basic.

So those are my reasons for my suggestions

God I hope I made some sense here. LOL