Go Back   986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners > Porsche Boxster & Cayman Forums > Boxster General Discussions

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-09-2020, 08:47 PM   #1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 15
Help identifying suspension clunk?

I started to notice it a few months ago and seems like itís become more common. It really only makes the noise when going over bumps. The video is attached below. I was driving over a pretty rough uphill road. From doing some research my guess is the track arms but Iím not really sure. Help is appreciated

https://youtu.be/VhTQ3_M8tI4

Niceboxster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2020, 04:41 AM   #2
Registered User
 
morgal48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 220
Track arms or motor and transmission mounts. The mounts can be visibly checked, the track arms - no. The ball joint where they attach to the body can fail, but, because they are always in compression its not possible to see until you remove them. TRW makes them for Porsche. Shop wisely.
__________________
2000 Boxster S
2010 Volvo XC60
2011 GMC Denali HD 6.6L (sold)
2008 Cayenne S (sold)
1989 Targa (sold)
morgal48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2020, 06:33 AM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 152
Garage
Def track arms

Just had them replaced on my car 2 weeks ago. I went with ďupgradedĒ arms recommended by my shop. They certainly look beefier than OEM, but who knows. They cost about half of the OEM parts tho.
sfkjeld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2020, 06:43 AM   #4
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 152
Garage
Iíll try to get the Arm type

In case you want to check it out.

Last edited by sfkjeld; 07-12-2020 at 06:46 AM.
sfkjeld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2020, 09:54 AM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Stow, MA
Posts: 915
Garage
It's not the arms that are under dimensioned, its the ball joint at the chassis end. A beefier version just adds unsprung weight.
__________________
2004 Boxster S Silver - FUNTOY
2002 Boxster Base Guardsy Red - FUNBOX
1987 Caterham Super 7 1700 Supersprint
2009 Mercedes Benz CLK 350 convertible
1941 Dodge Luxury Liner Coupe
Anker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2020, 06:49 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: London, ON CANADA
Posts: 2
Sounds like mine before I replaced the rear track arms. It's a 30 min job per side.
Uber-Moto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2020, 10:05 AM   #7
Registered User
 
Zzorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Fort Langley
Posts: 232
Had the same issue. Clunk over bumps. The track arms were probably the culprit, but I opted to rebuild the entire suspension. While I was at it.

Concur that replacing just the track arm is a 30 min/side job. Super simple to do. And if it solves your problems, then perfect.

I'd also take a look at the rear sway bar bushings. There are even easier to replace and a lot cheaper. Could try replacing those 1st before you go after the track arms. Might solve the problem for less money.

But I will say, a full suspension rebuild has done amazing things for the cars driving feel. Feels like a new car!

Good luck.
__________________
----------------------------
98 Boxster - Ocean Blue metallic. Bringing it back to life and having fun doing it!
20 Harley Streetbob -
Zzorro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2020, 12:31 PM   #8
Will there be cake?
 
tonythetiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: East Coast
Posts: 608
Garage
90% itís the track arms. Sway bar bushings are unlikely, but itís obvious if they need replacing. Drop links also wear, but the clunk/rattle is usually track arms as pictured in earlier post. I just replaced a pair in my car this morning prior to sale transfer. If you have impact tools, it takes minutes but remove the wheel and push the rear bolt in, then have a lineup drift for the front bolt and a big pry bar to goose the suspension forward a tiny bit if needed to get the front bolt started. Easy peasy. If you are using hand tools, you need a beaker bar for the front bolt, and pb blaster.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tonythetiger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2020, 05:56 PM   #9
jcp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: central okla
Posts: 86
I installed the front bolt first....then the rear. Easier access too the rear and you can see what you're doing.
jcp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2020, 06:15 PM   #10
Will there be cake?
 
tonythetiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: East Coast
Posts: 608
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcp View Post
I installed the front bolt first....then the rear. Easier access too the rear and you can see what you're doing.
I imagine either way works, maybe your way is better, but the imact driver (1/2 big boy) was key
tonythetiger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2020, 11:13 AM   #11
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CT
Posts: 193
i have a very similar noise but coming from the front and i can feel it in the steering wheel like someone is lightly tapping with a small hammer....thoughts on what it could be? i initially leaned towards strut mounts but they look good with no visible play and the fact that i "feel" the tapping through the wheel makes me think it is something else.

Appreciate the help and don't mean to jack your thread!
dav9515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2020, 08:22 PM   #12
Registered User
 
Zzorro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Fort Langley
Posts: 232
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav9515 View Post
i have a very similar noise but coming from the front and i can feel it in the steering wheel like someone is lightly tapping with a small hammer....thoughts on what it could be? i initially leaned towards strut mounts but they look good with no visible play and the fact that i "feel" the tapping through the wheel makes me think it is something else.

Appreciate the help and don't mean to jack your thread!
Try the sway bar bushings 1st. Cheap and wast replacement. Mind you I snapped one my bolts on this change. So don't force it. Pb blaster.
__________________
----------------------------
98 Boxster - Ocean Blue metallic. Bringing it back to life and having fun doing it!
20 Harley Streetbob -
Zzorro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2020, 04:34 AM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CT
Posts: 193
i just got some M030 sway bars so going to swap those with new bushings. Hopefully that fixes or eliminates that as the cause. i should also note i have already changed the sway bar end links. Thanks

Last edited by dav9515; 08-11-2020 at 04:44 AM.
dav9515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2020, 11:31 AM   #14
Racer Boy
 
Racer Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 933
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav9515 View Post
i have a very similar noise but coming from the front and i can feel it in the steering wheel like someone is lightly tapping with a small hammer....thoughts on what it could be? i initially leaned towards strut mounts but they look good with no visible play and the fact that i "feel" the tapping through the wheel makes me think it is something else.

Appreciate the help and don't mean to jack your thread!
I just recently had the same symptoms on my car. Since I rebuilt the suspension just a few thousand years ago, I was concerned about some component failing so soon. It turned out to be the a loose nut on the driver's front sway bar links, where the bolt goes through the wheel bearing carrier. I cranked the nut down, and the noise is gone.

Guess the mechanic that did the work was an idiot. Oh wait, that would be me...
Racer Boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2020, 12:26 PM   #15
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Boy View Post
Guess the mechanic that did the work was an idiot. Oh wait, that would be me...
+ 1 ... the good part is that nobody can complain

I guess that the top of my 'famous wrong moves' goes to for not ensuring that the plunger of the slave cylinder was properly seated.. and as soon as I pushed the clutch pedal I heard a clunk noise with the pedal sinking to the floor, getting my brand new Sachs clutch disk completely drenched with hydraulic fluid, needles to say the gearbox came out again..
Gilles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2020, 08:22 AM   #16
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CT
Posts: 193
i am going to put the car up on jackstands to do the sway bar swap and check everything there. i had the noise before i changed the end links and thought those were the issue, turns out it wasnt. I rechecked all the bolts after the noise continued so i am mostly confident they are tight. will give everything a good shaking to see if i can see what may be loose/noisy. I hate just throwing parts at it but its a 97 on original struts and suspension parts so it could be anything really. car only has 53k miles but age is just as detrimental on rubber as mileage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Boy View Post
I just recently had the same symptoms on my car. Since I rebuilt the suspension just a few thousand years ago, I was concerned about some component failing so soon. It turned out to be the a loose nut on the driver's front sway bar links, where the bolt goes through the wheel bearing carrier. I cranked the nut down, and the noise is gone.

Guess the mechanic that did the work was an idiot. Oh wait, that would be me...
dav9515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2020, 05:32 AM   #17
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Peoria Heights,IL
Posts: 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav9515 View Post
I hate just throwing parts at it but its a 97 on original struts and suspension parts so it could be anything really. car only has 53k miles but age is just as detrimental on rubber as mileage.
Yeah Dav on my 99 W/47,000 on it I was looking at the suspension and everything looked good except for the sway bar drop links.

The fronts were totally shot and the backs were half as bad as the fronts...So since the stock links were TRW and they were gone at 47,000 they were probably going bad after 20 or 30,000 so I decided to give another maker a shot and went with Lemfoerder links and they sure look like a great made part so we shall see.
__________________
99 Roadster base / 5 SP Tiptronic
18" Turbo Twist wheels / Arctic silver W/Black leather Int
Rear wing W/Brake light / 47,000 miles
Side skirts / Bought from original owner
99Roadster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2020, 05:18 PM   #18
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Roadster View Post
Yeah Dav on my 99 W/47,000 on it I was looking at the suspension and everything looked good except for the sway bar drop links.

The fronts were totally shot and the backs were half as bad as the fronts...So since the stock links were TRW and they were gone at 47,000 they were probably going bad after 20 or 30,000 so I decided to give another maker a shot and went with Lemfoerder links and they sure look like a great made part so we shall see.
TRW makes pretty god quality OEM parts, and Lemfolder has good reputation in Germany..
.
Gilles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2020, 07:01 PM   #19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 23
So I've had a similar problem. I've replaced the track arms, noise still there. Drop links, noise still there. Engine mount was one source of the noise - but even with that replaced, there's still a banging on choppy worn out pavement, from both the front and back. Unless it's the tie rods or the control arms, or some loose bolts, I'm at a loss.
safesaxbdd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2020, 04:27 PM   #20
Registered User
 
morgal48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by safesaxbdd View Post
So I've had a similar problem. I've replaced the track arms, noise still there. Drop links, noise still there. Engine mount was one source of the noise - but even with that replaced, there's still a banging on choppy worn out pavement, from both the front and back. Unless it's the tie rods or the control arms, or some loose bolts, I'm at a loss.
Jack the front of the car up and grab a wheel. Try to wiggle side to side. If you can move the wheel then you have a bad tie rod; and if you have a bad outer you may have a bad inner. If you grab the top and bottom of the wheel and can move it back and forth, you have a failed wheel bearing. I did tie rods today. Easy if you have the right tool. Apologies if you knew this.

__________________
2000 Boxster S
2010 Volvo XC60
2011 GMC Denali HD 6.6L (sold)
2008 Cayenne S (sold)
1989 Targa (sold)
morgal48 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page