Help identifying suspension clunk?
 

I started to notice it a few months ago and seems like it’s become more common. It really only makes the noise when going over bumps. The video is attached below. I was driving over a pretty rough uphill road. From doing some research my guess is the track arms but I’m not really sure. Help is appreciated

https://youtu.be/VhTQ3_M8tI4

Track arms or motor and transmission mounts. The mounts can be visibly checked, the track arms - no. The ball joint where they attach to the body can fail, but, because they are always in compression its not possible to see until you remove them. TRW makes them for Porsche. Shop wisely.

Def track arms
 

Just had them replaced on my car 2 weeks ago. I went with “upgraded” arms recommended by my shop. They certainly look beefier than OEM, but who knows. They cost about half of the OEM parts tho.

I’ll try to get the Arm type
 

In case you want to check it out.

It's not the arms that are under dimensioned, its the ball joint at the chassis end. A beefier version just adds unsprung weight.

Sounds like mine before I replaced the rear track arms. It's a 30 min job per side. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1596509386.jpg

Had the same issue. Clunk over bumps. The track arms were probably the culprit, but I opted to rebuild the entire suspension. While I was at it.

Concur that replacing just the track arm is a 30 min/side job. Super simple to do. And if it solves your problems, then perfect.

I'd also take a look at the rear sway bar bushings. There are even easier to replace and a lot cheaper. Could try replacing those 1st before you go after the track arms. Might solve the problem for less money.

But I will say, a full suspension rebuild has done amazing things for the cars driving feel. Feels like a new car!

Good luck.

90% it’s the track arms. Sway bar bushings are unlikely, but it’s obvious if they need replacing. Drop links also wear, but the clunk/rattle is usually track arms as pictured in earlier post. I just replaced a pair in my car this morning prior to sale transfer. If you have impact tools, it takes minutes but remove the wheel and push the rear bolt in, then have a lineup drift for the front bolt and a big pry bar to goose the suspension forward a tiny bit if needed to get the front bolt started. Easy peasy. If you are using hand tools, you need a beaker bar for the front bolt, and pb blaster.


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I installed the front bolt first....then the rear. Easier access too the rear and you can see what you're doing.

I imagine either way works, maybe your way is better, but the imact driver (1/2 big boy) was key

i have a very similar noise but coming from the front and i can feel it in the steering wheel like someone is lightly tapping with a small hammer....thoughts on what it could be? i initially leaned towards strut mounts but they look good with no visible play and the fact that i "feel" the tapping through the wheel makes me think it is something else.

Appreciate the help and don't mean to jack your thread!

Try the sway bar bushings 1st. Cheap and wast replacement. Mind you I snapped one my bolts on this change. So don't force it. Pb blaster.

i just got some M030 sway bars so going to swap those with new bushings. Hopefully that fixes or eliminates that as the cause. i should also note i have already changed the sway bar end links. Thanks

I just recently had the same symptoms on my car. Since I rebuilt the suspension just a few thousand years ago, I was concerned about some component failing so soon. It turned out to be the a loose nut on the driver's front sway bar links, where the bolt goes through the wheel bearing carrier. I cranked the nut down, and the noise is gone.

Guess the mechanic that did the work was an idiot. Oh wait, that would be me...

+ 1 ... the good part is that nobody can complain

I guess that the top of my 'famous wrong moves' goes to for not ensuring that the plunger of the slave cylinder was properly seated.. and as soon as I pushed the clutch pedal I heard a clunk noise with the pedal sinking to the floor, getting my brand new Sachs clutch disk completely drenched with hydraulic fluid, needles to say the gearbox came out again.. :rolleyes:

i am going to put the car up on jackstands to do the sway bar swap and check everything there. i had the noise before i changed the end links and thought those were the issue, turns out it wasnt. I rechecked all the bolts after the noise continued so i am mostly confident they are tight. will give everything a good shaking to see if i can see what may be loose/noisy. I hate just throwing parts at it but its a 97 on original struts and suspension parts so it could be anything really. car only has 53k miles but age is just as detrimental on rubber as mileage.

Yeah Dav on my 99 W/47,000 on it I was looking at the suspension and everything looked good except for the sway bar drop links.

The fronts were totally shot and the backs were half as bad as the fronts...So since the stock links were TRW and they were gone at 47,000 they were probably going bad after 20 or 30,000 so I decided to give another maker a shot and went with Lemfoerder links and they sure look like a great made part so we shall see.

TRW makes pretty god quality OEM parts, and Lemfolder has good reputation in Germany..
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So I've had a similar problem. I've replaced the track arms, noise still there. Drop links, noise still there. Engine mount was one source of the noise - but even with that replaced, there's still a banging on choppy worn out pavement, from both the front and back. Unless it's the tie rods or the control arms, or some loose bolts, I'm at a loss.

Jack the front of the car up and grab a wheel. Try to wiggle side to side. If you can move the wheel then you have a bad tie rod; and if you have a bad outer you may have a bad inner. If you grab the top and bottom of the wheel and can move it back and forth, you have a failed wheel bearing. I did tie rods today. Easy if you have the right tool. Apologies if you knew this.