Variocam thoughts and questions

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

1) I agree, tearing down the entire engine is an overreaction. If you clean the sump and the strainer you should be ok. You would have to pull the valve covers anyway, clean the internals while you are there.

2) Good question. Perhaps others will chime in who had the same problem and know the answer. I wouldn`t use the car for too long like that, you can see in the video what happens if the actuator works with no oil. Probably your actuator is not there yet, the remaining O-rings may still hold the pressure? The small timing chain rail bits in the filter on its own would be a good reason to pull the valve covers to prevent future failures.

3) Yeah, tough decisions you need to make here. If you want to keep the car for long it`s worthwhile to fix all these issues. If you are a DIY person. If you are not, I`d consider selling the car to someone, who is...

Yes, I agree with those points. I do some DIY but probably not capable of replacing variocam actuator, as it involves timing, etc. If I knew the one that was failing and the exact part number I'd get a good used one and get it put in...Done a few trips totalling 70 miles now and engine exactly as it was. Got recovery cover for a year as back up too. Plan to check filter again after a few hundred miles and see what it has in it.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

Yes, I agree with those points. I do some DIY but probably not capable of replacing variocam actuator, as it involves timing, etc. If I knew the one that was failing and the exact part number I'd get a good used one and get it put in...Done a few trips totalling 70 miles now and engine exactly as it was. Got recovery cover for a year as back up too. Plan to check filter again after a few hundred miles and see what it has in it.

An easy thing you could do is to remove one of the green plugs on the camsafts on either side and take a peek into the gap. You can see the actuator from an angle and one of the pads. If you ask somebody to rotate the crankshaft with a wrench (clockwise) you can inspect the actuator if there`s any movement. There should not be anything, and probably there isn`t, because it would rattle otherwise, but at least you would get an idea if things look ok. At least things that you can see there. I`m not sure actually what you can see with the engine in the car, my engine is on a stand now. If you have a boroscope that may help.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

An easy thing you could do is to remove one of the green plugs on the camsafts on either side and take a peek into the gap. You can see the actuator from an angle and one of the pads. If you ask somebody to rotate the crankshaft with a wrench (clockwise) you can inspect the actuator if there`s any movement. There should not be anything, and probably there isn`t, because it would rattle otherwise, but at least you would get an idea if things look ok. At least things that you can see there. I`m not sure actually what you can see with the engine in the car, my engine is on a stand now. If you have a boroscope that may help.

Yes that seems a good idea - nobody has suggested looking into it to check and I am guessing a bore scope would help see the actuator condition. Or maybe just listen with a stethoscope on the cam cover when it's on tick over and at 1,500 + revs? As the failed one likely to be on 1-3 bores drivers side for a UK car I may even try taking off the cover and have a look.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

Yes that seems a good idea - nobody has suggested looking into it to check and I am guessing a bore scope would help see the actuator condition. Or maybe just listen with a stethoscope on the cam cover when it's on tick over and at 1,500 + revs? As the failed one likely to be on 1-3 bores drivers side for a UK car I may even try taking off the cover and have a look.

First, I`d suggest just taking out the plug at the intake cam. The plug is not reusable if you remove it so you will need a new one but it`s cheap. If you want to remove the cover, you will need to lock the camshafts and hold them down using a tool, otherwise you may damage the camshafts or the bearings. There`s a good tutorial about this in Wayne`s book, available online on Pelican`s website for free.

[sfkjeld]

Timely post for me. My 2000 2.7 just threw a 1341 error code (cam timing). The newly remanufactured engine was just installed last fall after Sitting in a garage for years. After reading this thread, seems conceivable the O-ring could have dried out and failed. I am still holding out hope it’s the sensor or solenoid, but after reading this.... probably not.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by sfkjeld

Timely post for me. My 2000 2.7 just threw a 1341 error code (cam timing). The newly remanufactured engine was just installed last fall after Sitting in a garage for years. After reading this thread, seems conceivable the O-ring could have dried out and failed. I am still holding out hope it’s the sensor or solenoid, but after reading this.... probably not.

Sorry to hear... Can you tell which bank threw the code?

[sfkjeld]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Sorry to hear... Can you tell which bank threw the code?

Bank 1-3 unfortunately.