Boxster 986 particles in oil filter

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

That is interesting because it does mean you can have green bits in the filter and still everything still works - although it seems your green bits are sealant used in the engine rebuild.

What I find annoying is that with these cases (where an engine may be very close to the point of imploding) there is no engine warning light or codes coming up to indicate this. I guess it is just the same as in a car that has a timing belt failure.

I looked at the tensioner cylinder design and it basically just actuates slightly (in and out) in a barrel with seals designed to stop engine oil getting in (presumably) and is activated by the electrical solenoid to make a mechanical movement to tension or release tension. IMO even with the seals broken it probably would still operate (and like the dreaded IMS bearing, when the seals fail be lubricated by oil not grease)? If the solenoid goes then it wont work and you'd get a code fault? But if the seals break down the engine has no idea and the tensioner barrel, being metal can just continue to function and the system doesn't detect any malfunction (because it opens and closes but is more lubricated or the tolerance is such that the external engine oil has no effect. Is the varioCam tensioner a sealed unit or does it take oil from the engine? Guess the seals are there to maintain the internal pressure of the tensioner and without them the power of the pressure is reduced or limited? So many questions...

The fact that Porsche changed the system on the 2002 facelift version to use the VW Audi one is indicative they decide the new one was better or cheaper.
Also, I wonder whether the varioCam units are the same design on the earlier 911 engines and have they ever failed?

Hartech, (engine builders in UK) said when I spoke to them that the real issue was getting an engine failure by the particles blocking the oil pump feed and that an engine flush or sump removal may be a good idea.

You may wanna reread my comment #11. The actuator is operated by oil pressure, not by the solenoid, the solenoid operates a valve only that channels oil flow to the piston that advances the timing of the intake camshaft. If the solenoid is faulty, probably the ECU will see that and may trigger the check engine light. I`m just guessing here. If the actuator is not working because it can`t hold the pressure, then you won`t have cam advancement, but your engine is not in danger, not like when timing gets messed up. Just it won`t perform as it should at a certain rpm range. The seals are there to hold the pressure, not for stopping engine oil getting into the actuator. I agree, pulling the sump is probably a good idea to clean the rest of the debris off the oil pickup strainer.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

You may wanna reread my comment #11. The actuator is operated by oil pressure, not by the solenoid, the solenoid operates a valve only that channels oil flow to the piston that advances the timing of the intake camshaft. If the solenoid is faulty, probably the ECU will see that and may trigger the check engine light. I`m just guessing here. If the actuator is not working because it can`t hold the pressure, then you won`t have cam advancement, but your engine is not in danger, not like when timing gets messed up. Just it won`t perform as it should at a certain rpm range. The seals are there to hold the pressure, not for stopping engine oil getting into the actuator. I agree, pulling the sump is probably a good idea to clean the rest of the debris off the oil pickup strainer.

Yes, Thanks - I did read the point about the actuators working on oil pressure not sure if the unit is sealed or taking engine oil to operated I guess it is? I took the car out yesterday for a 20 mile test run and it ran impressively; quick revs response and power and just seemed about right (according to my previous experience of how it drives) I was cautious at first as I don't want to ruin my engine but overall it was good. I saw an ad for the full kit of new timing chains, cylinders and tensioners online for $3,500 that is a very expensive set of parts to replace!

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Found this link with drawings of the entire Porsche variocam system and how it works;

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

Found this link with drawings of the entire Porsche variocam system and how it works;

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html

Pretty cool, haven`t seen this yet, thanks!

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

Found this link with drawings of the entire Porsche variocam system and how it works;

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html

Just looked at the link and it got me thinking. EDIT: Knowing that the two cam actuators are different, is it possible that only one has a tendency to fail? Or this failure is rather model dependent?

I looked through a couple of threads on this matter and they were all about 2.7 engines.

I split one actuator from bank 4-6 (2.5 base), and it`s clearly different from the one pictured on the previous page in this thread (2.7). If you go back in the thread you can see both side by side. Mine had no problem with the large green O-ring, does not even have it. So is it because it`s model specific (2.5 vs 2.7) or because the one that usually fails correspond to bank 1-3? Can anyone confirm either this or the other possibility?

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Just looked at the link and it got me thinking. Knowing that the two cam actuators move to opposite directions, and they are different, is it possible that only one has a tendency to fail? Or this failure is rather model dependent?

I looked through a couple of threads on this matter and they were all about 2.7 engines.

I split one actuator from bank 4-6 (2.5 base), and it`s clearly different from the one pictured on the previous page in this thread (2.7). If you go back in the thread you can see both side by side. Mine had no problem with the large green O-ring, does not even have it. So is it because it`s model specific (2.5 vs 2.7) or because the one that usually fails correspond to bank 1-3? Can anyone confirm either this or the other possibility?

Looking at the part numbers Bank 1-3 is; 996.105.051 - 56/57/58
and Bank 4-6 is; 996.105.053 - 56/57/58
and they are both different as far as I can tell

[Homeoboxter]

Yes, bank number is clearly written on the actuator housing. The solenoids are not interchangable either, one has a black, the other has a gray plastic insert. Porsche really wanted to make sure these won`t get mixed up.
I don`t want to destroy the other bank`s (1-3) actuator that I have because it`s good, but it would be nice to see if it`s similar inside to 4-6 or not