Boxster 986 particles in oil filter

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Just done an oil service on my 986 2000 2.7 at about 121k miles and found no metallic bits in the filter but lots of these tiny green plastic particles of various sizes. Am guessing they are from the chain guides? There were none at all in the previous oil change. Can anyone advise me please?







The photo of these particles is zoomed in by cropping they generally are 1-2mm in size

[blue62]

Not positive but I think the chain guide material is brown or a tannish color.
Those particles look to be the color of the seals in the Variocam plungers.
Do a search here on the forum. There are a few threads on those types of particles found in oil filters.

[Hasbro]

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/77949-green-rubber-2.html

[gabedrummin]

You need to have your vario cam units tested .

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by gabedrummin

You need to have your vario cam units tested .

what came of your green rubber Gabe?

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Would the variocam units need testing on a proper system? I only have a cheap code reader BUT it does read live data BUT not sure where to look and how to test or check

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Thanks, yes did a search and it is very interesting to hear it may be the variocam chain adjustors seals breaking up. It seems the new parts cost and labour is very expensive to solve this. I was wondering if good used parts might work and the potential risks of driving the car? Looks as if I need to do more research...

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Yes true I need to do some checking about costs and parts and review the viability of this issue in the long term - as putting in up to £6k worth of repairs on a £2-3k Boxster in UK is daft!
I have checked and to use good used actuators would be OK so that reduces the cost.

The question really is can it be driven with the rubber seals broken? On the basis that it drove fine before the oil change (and the particles were found) and starts after I reckon it can be driven...Has anyone who had this issue any experience about driving theirs please?

[Liamray]

I had exactly the same thing happen to my 2001 2.7 Boxster, same ‘green’ hard rubber pieces in the filter, and like yours my car was running okay (at least I thought it was) and it wasn’t showing any fault codes. Also 2 of my 3 ‘Chain Tensioners’ were shot, and this combined with the ‘Variocam Tensioners’ being shot caused a rattle on start up, but again the car ‘seemed’ to be running fine. After replacing the ‘Variocam Tensioners’ and the 3 cam chain Tensioners, it was like a new car, instant increase in power and absolutely no rattle on start up ‘cold or hot’! I honestly believe that the ‘Variocam Tensioners’ and the ‘chain Tensioners’ are a bigger problem than the IMSB problem, when I pulled my motor to do the ‘Tensioners’ I did the IMSB at the same time (and it was in as new condition no wear at all). And yes the ‘Variocam Tensioners’ are expensive but mine did 150,000ks, before they became a problem, so when I compare that with my daily driver (Subaru Forester) and the cost of repairs on it, I don’t think the cost of fixing the Porsche is that bad. Let’s face it I know which car I’d rather drive.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Liamray, Yes, your points seem spot on and the fairly common start up chain slap, rattle and wear on all these key (interdependent) areas of the timing chain system may well be considered a real issue for cars that are now 20+ years old. The fact that the tensioner cylinders are very expensive and not serviceable too adds to it all + the time and labour to get it all repaired.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Not sure what sections relate to checking varioCam working correctly? These readings are on idle.











The reading of the section I guessed were relevant at 3000 revs are;
LTFT - B1 27.34%
LTFT - B2 28.12%

STFT - B1 0-2.34%
STFT - B2 0-3.12%

Spark advance 19.5%

SHRTFT 11 -10%
SHRTFT 12 99.21%

I have (honestly) no idea what these "LTFT" etc actually mean and if anybody can look at these readings and suggest areas of concern or help then please do. I just need to know what section to look at when it is driven over 3000 revs (by co-pilot)?

[blue62]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

Not sure what sections relate to checking varioCam working correctly? These readings are on idle.











The reading of the section I guessed were relevant at 3000 revs are;
LTFT - B1 27.34%
LTFT - B2 28.12%

STFT - B1 0-2.34%
STFT - B2 0-3.12%

Spark advance 19.5%

SHRTFT 11 -10%
SHRTFT 12 99.21%

I have (honestly) no idea what these "LTFT" etc actually mean and if anybody can look at these readings and suggest areas of concern or help then please do. I just need to know what section to look at when it is driven over 3000 revs (by co-pilot)?

You need a scanner that will show degrees of camshaft advance.
Then you watch the camshaft advance when you get above the actuator trigger threshold. (1500 RPM I think) the camshaft advance will jump up.

An easier way is a scanner that can actuate the Variocam actuators.
You trigger an actuator at idle with the scan tool and you hear and feel the motor run differently= rougher. You can trigger one side at a time.
Both of my scanners can do it, makes testing the function of actuators, injectors and other modules simple.

If you decide to go for another scanner look at Foxwell. Mine is the 520NT Pro, under $200.00 US.
I think they have upgraded to a 530NT now as mine is a year or two old.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Originally Posted by blue62

You need a scanner that will show degrees of camshaft advance.
Then you watch the camshaft advance when you get above the actuator trigger threshold. (1500 RPM I think) the camshaft advance will jump up.

An easier way is a scanner that can actuate the Variocam actuators.
You trigger an actuator at idle with the scan tool and you hear and feel the motor run differently= rougher. You can trigger one side at a time.
Both of my scanners can do it, makes testing the function of actuators, injectors and other modules simple.

If you decide to go for another scanner look at Foxwell. Mine is the 520NT Pro, under $200.00 US.
I think they have upgraded to a 530NT now as mine is a year or two old.

Yes that is exactly the kind of test it needs to be sure

[gabedrummin]

Yes I have the green particles in my filter .I checked my active cam timing and it was determined that my vario cam is working .Tested at 4500 rpm and 26 degree of advance showed deviation of 2.xxx .My motor is a RND engine with 23 thousand miles they said its the color of the sealant they use . I continue to monitor my timing and oil.And drive it everyday .There is a pic on this post that shows a vario cam actuator that the piston came all the way out .I would like to ask the owner if the tan plastic guide was completely gone ? I have no rattling sound .Do the o-ring get old and brittle and break or dose the piston come out so far that they fall off ? I don't know what my issue is or if I have one or not.

[tonythetiger]

LTFT and STFT are fuel trim stats, (Long term and short term fuel trim) as I understand it. What I see that seems odd is the coolant temp. is that 92 celcius= nearly 200 degrees Fahrenheit?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

LTFT and STFT are fuel trim stats, (Long term and short term fuel trim) as I understand it. What I see that seems odd is the coolant temp. is that 92 celcius= nearly 200 degrees Fahrenheit?

Not at all odd, most of these cars with the factory thermostat are running 210-215F.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Not at all odd, most of these cars with the factory thermostat are running 210-215F.

interesting. I have only referenced the drivers gauge for temp, never seen mine step up above about 185 on a hot summer day, fans blazing. I will play with my duremetric and see if this is different. I just replaced the thermo with a 72C, but the driver gauge only shows about a 3-4 degree lower (183 was "normal" now it hits 180 and sticks)
thanks!

[blue62]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

interesting. I have only referenced the drivers gauge for temp, never seen mine step up above about 185 on a hot summer day, fans blazing. I will play with my duremetric and see if this is different. I just replaced the thermo with a 72C, but the driver gauge only shows about a 3-4 degree lower (183 was "normal" now it hits 180 and sticks)
thanks!

I just replaced my OEM thermostat with a low temp thermostat.
I then took the car on a 297 mile run with my scanner plugged into the OBDII port.
This allowed me monitor the temps that the ECU was seeing and compare readings to the dash display.
Ambient temps were from 61 degrees in the morning to 93 degrees in the afternoon.
Coolant temps ran from 183 -205 degrees depending on engine load, ambient temp, road speed, and RPM.
Coolant temps reported by the scanner corelated very closely to the dash gauge.

I have done this same test with the OEM thermostat. on the same 297 mile run.
Coolant temps in that test ran 5 degrees higher through the range.

Also I don't think the fans kick on until around 196-200 degrees. At least mine don't. Mine is a 2000S
Just as an edit to this: I looked up the trigger temps for the fans.
Low speed kicks on at 206.2F high speed kicks on at 215.6F

[blue62]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

LTFT and STFT are fuel trim stats, (Long term and short term fuel trim) as I understand it. What I see that seems odd is the coolant temp. is that 92 celcius= nearly 200 degrees Fahrenheit?

Normal operating temp for the conditions.
Car is sitting still and the fans have not kicked on yet.
Normal temp for just about any car I can think of for the conditions.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by blue62

Normal operating temp for the conditions.
Car is sitting still and the fans have not kicked on yet.
Normal temp for just about any car I can think of for the conditions.

Agreed. In most European cars fan switch turns on at 92 C and off at 82 C, so at idle or in heavy traffic coolant temperature varies between these two values.

Foxwell looks like a good deal. What`s the advantage of Durametric over this? I`ll need to buy one soon too.