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Old 01-21-2020, 04:48 PM   #1
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Double Din Stereo Install W/Amp and 3 ways

Cross post - I added pretty much the same info to the "What do you do with your Boxster Today?" Thread


This weekend I managed to take what I learned from a bunch of Stereo posts and installed a double din head unit, an aftermarket amp, and a pair of Focal 3-Way Separates.

I started with a single din Alpine something something 149bt:



Not a bad deck by any stretch. I could have lived with it. It's for sale if any of you want to live with it.

I wanted something more modern to tie into my phone. I picked up a Sony... something something 7000. Same as the 5000 except it has 55W per channel and an anti-glare capacitive touch screen. The deck doesn't play any CD's or DVD's so it's very compact. It's a double din screen with a single din chassis. This allowed me to very easily tuck away any excess wiring under the head unit. I only regret that I can't upload a custom wall paper. Only has 5 or 6 to chose from and they are all very boring.

New Head Unit W/Boring Background:



My other main goal was to ditch the stock 6 channel amp (yes, I had a 6 channel amp) and DSP. The HVAC panel was moved to the DSP slot.
With that all moved I was able to pull out the 6 disc changer and install a modern amp with built in DSP. Because the car originally had an aftermarket deck in it the install of the deck was extremely simple. Everything I needed for the speakers was located on the big purple amp plug.

I chose to modify the existing CD changer bracket to hold the amp. I used the old amplifier bracket to hold the cross overs.

I went with an AudioControl D-4.800.:





I wired the amp directly to the battery with Stinger 4 gauge and a big ole fuse. Picked up remote out from the deck. I ran one set of Stinger RCA's to the DSP. I also wired in a bypass to avoid the whole e-brake nonsense.

I went with some 3 way Focal speakers. (https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/performance/access/component-kits/165-as3) For whatever reason I didn't take any photos of the speaker install. I followed along with what most folks already found successful. I modified all of the existing Hayes brackets for the dash. For the 6" drivers I carved up the coveted smaller Hayes boxes to embed a 6" ABS mounting ring. I sealed up the edges around the ring and speaker and left the box ported/vented with the existing vent. I used all of the stock vehicle speaker wires.

I'm sending Deck power (50-55W per channel) through some caps to the rear storage compartment speakers (4 - 3.5" speakers). I ran one set of RCA's from the deck to the amp and the rear speaker input wires through the grommet that sits behind the battery. The cables are all routed and loomed nicely to duck around the battery tray. The XM radio antenna is hidden up under the wiper cowl sitting on a CAI audio stand. Signal output is being through channels 1-4 via the DSP. Front channel is through DSP to the cross overs / caps to the tweeters and mid-range on channels 1 and 2. The 6" drivers are being sent directly through the DSP using channels 3 and 4. I am choking down the drivers through the DSP (no highs and minimal mid base). I chose to protect the mids/highs with the supplied Focal crossovers. May remove those later. Not sure. The way this is wired I can fade to front between front (D-4.800) and rear shelf to achieve a nice sound stage. May need to invest in better clock radio speakers behind my head.

Result was great. Need to learn this DSP software (and educate myself on frequency ranges!) to make this sound better. I was honestly blown away with how punchy the 6" speakers are. Impressed so far.

Thanks for letting me share,
Ted


Last edited by TRP; 01-21-2020 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 01-22-2020, 12:04 AM   #2
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As I can’t find a ‘like’ button, I just have to say it: Me like!

Too bad about not having pics of the door speaker installation, that’ my next step.
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:27 AM   #3
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Thank you. I may go back into the doors to verify the woofers aren't hitting the door panels. If I open er up I will take a photo of my handy work.
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Old 01-22-2020, 07:08 AM   #4
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Nice/clean work and set-up! Well done

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As I can’t find a ‘like’ button....
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Old 01-23-2020, 12:53 PM   #5
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Thanks for sharing. I’m contemplating a full stereo overhaul on my 2003 S. It only has the headunit and dash speakers (minimum spec). No door speakers and no external amp. The OEM setup makes my ears hurt if I use it.

I’m contemplating an active setup as follows:

Front (dash): two active 2-way tweeters and 4” mids in the dash.

Rear (BOSE Subwoofer box): two active 2.5” tweeters/mid-tweeters, and two active 5.25” mid-woofers wired in parallel as the “subwoofer.”

DSP plus 7 or 8 channels of amplified power (probably via two amps and requiring a capacitor).

I’m debating with either installing a double DIN unit like you did or omitting the head unit all together via a Bluetooth enabled amplifier with music/navigation via iPhone.

I’ll do my best to document it all when I finally take it on.


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Old 01-23-2020, 04:18 PM   #6
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Hello Spyder Man,

re: I’m debating with either installing a double DIN unit like you did or omitting the head unit all together via a Bluetooth enabled amplifier with music/navigation via iPhone.

That's a great option which would allow you to simply keep your existing head unit and not muck up the interior. If you go with a unit that doesn't play physical media you get a whole bunch of your dash back! My 'double din' is really a single din chassis.

I completely understand why you might go 7/8 channels in a closed cabin car where you can really noodle with the sound signal and get the quality you're looking for (with the separate channels for tweeters and mids). I just didn't see the value in an open top car. Once the top goes down a lot of those nuances will just go flat, won't they?

That was my thought process as to why I fed the tweeters and mids from the same channel and just used the Focal crossovers. I could use a similar set for the 4 speakers behind my head (in the storage box).

I'd love to hear how the bose box works out for you. I'm also in the Bay Area. Shoot me a PM if you go that route.

I need to spend more time with the DSP this weekend and try to clean up the sound a bit. I noticed a bit of an echo in some of the voices.
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Old 01-23-2020, 07:18 PM   #7
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TRP, nice and I especially like the bezel.
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Old 01-24-2020, 05:45 AM   #8
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Completely replaced Bose/MOST in 2003 Boxster S

Here's what I did last year:

I recently replaced the entire factory Bose sound system for higher quality components. The Porsche/Becker/MOST system really limits the available options. Like you, I wanted Apple CarPlay and BT. There are lots of head units out there, but if you're wanting CarPlay, do your research, read reviews of head units to find a reliable, easy to use model. The factory amp is a five channel, under powered, MOST-only component. Amps are relatively inexpensive. You can interface with the factory speaker wiring and there are several websites that have the wiring diagrams. I think theRennTech site has posted several. The dash speakers, for the Hifi and Bose are component, 1 in tweeters and 3 in midrange drivers. The Car Audio Innovations website (cai-store.com) has adapters to mount 4 in coaxial speakers in that space. That's a great upgrade, and can be relatively inexpensive. The door speakers are 5 1/2 in.

If you have the Bose system, the wiring from amp to speakers is a bit wonky so that Porsche/Bose could use a cheap amp to get acceptable sound volume. The speaker drivers are fairly low quality, but can be made to sound good with a cleaner amp w/ a bit more power. But, they wired the door speakers to 2 ohm load and the rear "subwoofer" enclosure to a 1 or 2 ohm load.

Wanting Apple CarPlay in a double DIN configuration, I replaced the CDR 23 head unit and amp in my 03 Boxster S with a Kenwood HU and amp. That solved the MOST nonsense. The installer wired into the existing speakers. Sounded much better. CarPlay is wonderful. BT is handy. But, the Bose drivers are flat, bass is muddy, dash speakers not clear but very biased towards voice and "bright".

Next step, replace all speaker drivers. Rod at CAI Store helped with great advice and a few products. Some research online helped with other aspects. I ended up the CAI Store dash mount Hertz 4 in coax speakers. For the doors, I mounted Hertz 5 1/2 in woofers from the component set and put the tweeters in the rear deck speaker enclosure where the Bose tweeters were previously. The crossovers are mounted in the trunk next to the amp. The woofers in the rear box were replaced with Morel 5 1/2 in woofers. (I stumbled across this build plan on the DIY Audio website)

How does it sound? Wow!!! It's an amazing transformation. Certainly, the signal processing capabilities of a modern head unit help tremendously (Kenwood DDX 8905S and Kenwood XR 901-5 amp). The speakers are very clear and driven by an amp that has enough power to drive them efficiently. The rear deck subwoofer has "deep" tight bass. To say that I'm pleased would be an understatement.

I don't know if there's an easy way to get where you are wanting to go. The MOST bus is severely constricting to adding modern audio.
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmer View Post
Here's what I did last year:
The woofers in the rear box were replaced with Morel 5 1/2 in woofers. (I stumbled across this build plan on the DIY Audio website).
Oh? This sounds like it's right up my alley. Do you happened to have a link to the build plan? Is it this article by chance?

Thank you for sharing your info,
Ted
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:40 AM   #10
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Alternatively I found this one: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/please-help-design-a-sound-system-for-porsche-boxster.156035/

I have the speaker box itself but not the Bose version. Looking for a Bose unit is something to think about of you (Elmer) think it's a worth while addition.
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Old 01-24-2020, 06:08 PM   #11
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Yeah, I’m considering swapping the Morel 5.25” speakers into the rear BOSE subwoofer box as described on DIYMA.

The catch seems (after researching those speakers more on Parts-Express) that they are 8 ohm speakers with high power requirements 150W RMS and up to 1000W Peak. That’s a lot of power for a car audio system. Also they are mid-bass woofers so most “subwoofer” amps won’t provide a signal that goes high enough to make full use of these speakers. The speakers can play up to 3000 Hz cleanly and most subwoofer amps cap signal at 250 Hz or so.

This all got me looking at higher performance amps and Digital Sound Processing. Which leads to an expensive sound system overhaul.


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Old 01-24-2020, 06:09 PM   #12
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Double Din Stereo Install W/Amp and 3 ways

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmer View Post
Here's what I did last year:



I recently replaced the entire factory Bose sound system for higher quality components. The Porsche/Becker/MOST system really limits the available options. Like you, I wanted Apple CarPlay and BT. There are lots of head units out there, but if you're wanting CarPlay, do your research, read reviews of head units to find a reliable, easy to use model. The factory amp is a five channel, under powered, MOST-only component. Amps are relatively inexpensive. You can interface with the factory speaker wiring and there are several websites that have the wiring diagrams. I think theRennTech site has posted several. The dash speakers, for the Hifi and Bose are component, 1 in tweeters and 3 in midrange drivers. The Car Audio Innovations website (cai-store.com) has adapters to mount 4 in coaxial speakers in that space. That's a great upgrade, and can be relatively inexpensive. The door speakers are 5 1/2 in.



If you have the Bose system, the wiring from amp to speakers is a bit wonky so that Porsche/Bose could use a cheap amp to get acceptable sound volume. The speaker drivers are fairly low quality, but can be made to sound good with a cleaner amp w/ a bit more power. But, they wired the door speakers to 2 ohm load and the rear "subwoofer" enclosure to a 1 or 2 ohm load.



Wanting Apple CarPlay in a double DIN configuration, I replaced the CDR 23 head unit and amp in my 03 Boxster S with a Kenwood HU and amp. That solved the MOST nonsense. The installer wired into the existing speakers. Sounded much better. CarPlay is wonderful. BT is handy. But, the Bose drivers are flat, bass is muddy, dash speakers not clear but very biased towards voice and "bright".



Next step, replace all speaker drivers. Rod at CAI Store helped with great advice and a few products. Some research online helped with other aspects. I ended up the CAI Store dash mount Hertz 4 in coax speakers. For the doors, I mounted Hertz 5 1/2 in woofers from the component set and put the tweeters in the rear deck speaker enclosure where the Bose tweeters were previously. The crossovers are mounted in the trunk next to the amp. The woofers in the rear box were replaced with Morel 5 1/2 in woofers. (I stumbled across this build plan on the DIY Audio website)



How does it sound? Wow!!! It's an amazing transformation. Certainly, the signal processing capabilities of a modern head unit help tremendously (Kenwood DDX 8905S and Kenwood XR 901-5 amp). The speakers are very clear and driven by an amp that has enough power to drive them efficiently. The rear deck subwoofer has "deep" tight bass. To say that I'm pleased would be an understatement.



I don't know if there's an easy way to get where you are wanting to go. The MOST bus is severely constricting to adding modern audio.


Thanks for sharing. So you’re using the Kenwood 5-channel amp to drive all the speakers? Are the Morel mid-woofers in the rear box wired in parallel? That would put them at 4 ohms and 300w RMS.

Last edited by Spyder_Man; 01-24-2020 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 01-25-2020, 05:43 AM   #13
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Stop worrying about the rear speakers, concentrate on the front sound stage. At concerts the don't put speakers behind you. I have a similar speaker setup with Audison speakers and processor with an Alpine 150w x 4 amp. Sounds amazing with top up or down with plenty of bass. Nice carbon option, very rare. My son had just the steering wheel in red on his 00.

Last edited by azlvr; 01-25-2020 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 01-25-2020, 10:44 AM   #14
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Stop worrying about the rear speakers, concentrate on the front sound stage. At concerts the don't put speakers behind you.
Pink Floyd did back in the 70's . . . . . . .
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Old 01-25-2020, 11:09 AM   #15
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Pink Floyd did back in the 70's . . . . . . .


Yeah, whatever happened to quadraphonic?




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Old 01-25-2020, 06:10 PM   #16
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Tuned the dsp today. Sounds much better. Now I'm wanting more bass. Does the 987 bose box fit the 986?
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Old 01-26-2020, 04:53 AM   #17
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Pink Floyd did back in the 70's . . . . . . .
Are we back in the 70's? I was but recording and sound technologies have advanced. My rear speakers are disconnected and the system sounds great. Back in the 70's our main speakers were in the rear deck but not anymore. Stop by a high end retailer and they can explain the current sound system designs. They're no longer like back in the 70's.
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Old 01-26-2020, 04:58 AM   #18
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Tuned the dsp today. Sounds much better. Now I'm wanting more bass. Does the 987 bose box fit the 986?
If you used the current speaker enclosures they should have enough bass. Unless you're listening to music that has overused bass in it like so much of todays music.
I think you just need more power.
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Old 01-26-2020, 05:57 AM   #19
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Thanks for sharing. So you’re using the Kenwood 5-channel amp to drive all the speakers? Are the Morel mid-woofers in the rear box wired in parallel? That would put them at 4 ohms and 300w RMS.
Yes, wired per the guidance in the DIY post. I also changed out the door speaker boxes from the Bose to Nokia. While the system doesn't have the deep, deep bass that some folks are looking for, it is "musical" and sounds great. The 5 channel amp drives the system well.

Rod at CAI is a great resource and their products engineered for the 986 are good fits. I'm very happy with the system that is installed now.
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Old 01-26-2020, 06:02 AM   #20
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Interestingly, I have the fader set to just rear of center. The DSP in the HU is set for Left Front seating position. The "rear" speakers are really the door mounts (Hertz 5.5 inch woofers) and the tweeters in the subwoofer box (on the outside edges of the box). The Morel drivers are the bass component and are driven by the subwoofer output of the amp. As most of the speaker components are forward of the drivers seat, the rear bias of the fader allows the tweeters to add depth to the sound stage. I have the external bass control turned to about the 4 o'clock position which provides bass, but not over emphasizing the bass.

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