Tune up (coil) question - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Rob175 · 08-10-2019, 01:28 PM

My mechanic suggested that at 90,000 miles I have him perform a tune-up on my 98 Boxster which currently has 87,000 miles. He recommends changing all of the plugs, plug tubes, and coils along with some filters (the filters I have done myself in the past and will do again so he doesn't need to do those)

My question is about the coils. Since the car runs great and there are no codes how "smart/wise/proactive" should I be in replacing the currently working coils too?

I understand that the coils need to come off to get to the tubes and plugs but the coils seem fine so I'm looking for some advice.

particlewave · 08-10-2019, 01:45 PM

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Coils are not a preventative maintenance item. Replace them when they fail.

BTW, if you can do filters, you can do plugs and tubes. It’s not at all difficult.

blue62 · 08-10-2019, 03:35 PM

you can also get cracks in the plastic housing of the coil. They usually start as hairline and get bigger over time. At some point you get spark leak. I usually replace mine if they are cracked or fail. Otherwise as PW said if it ain't broke

dghii · 08-10-2019, 05:30 PM

I'd leave the coils alone and replace only when needed. Cool thing is, this is one item that you'll get a pretty definitive code for, pointing you to the offending cylinder.

As an aside, if your plugs are old, replace them, along with tubes and o-rings. You can inspect your coils for cracks at the same time. Thing is, plugs, tubes and rings are cheap compared to wholesale change of 6b coils.

911monty · 08-11-2019, 12:51 AM

I recently started to change plugs on my 98 base with 100k miles. I stopped when I found EVERY single coil was cracked on at least 2 sides. There was no indication of a problem, car ran well. I had previously changed plugs and inspected coils @ 70 k. Ordered 6 new coils and changed plugs, tubes and coils. I'm with your mechanic.

piper6909 · 08-11-2019, 05:18 AM

If cracking is the only problem, couldn't one just slap some RTV on the cracks to prolong the coils' life?

particlewave · 08-11-2019, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by piper6909

If cracking is the only problem, couldn't one just slap some RTV on the cracks to prolong the coils' life?

Epoxy. JB weld (non-metallic) works great.

Seriously...tossing out a coil because it has a crack in the case is really wasteful, IMO. Slap some epoxy on that crack and get another decade or two out of it. I’ve done it plenty on other cars and never had a misfire return.

The best part is that you can be up and running today instead of waiting for parts.

To each, their own, though.

piper6909 · 08-11-2019, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave

Epoxy. JB weld (non-metallic) works great.

Seriously...tossing out a coil because it has a crack in the case is really wasteful, IMO. Slap some epoxy on that crack and get another decade or two out of it. I’ve done it plenty on other cars and never had a misfire return.

The best part is that you can be up and running today instead of waiting for parts.

To each, their own, though.

My sentiment exactly. I like the JB Weld or Epoxy idea, better than RTV.

Rob175 · 08-11-2019, 07:23 AM

Thanks guys..... I’ve watched a few videos and agree it doesn’t look difficult. Hardest part for me is raising the car and put it on a jack stand since I don’t have either. But when my mechanic quoted over $1,200 to do the job I was shocked since Pelican sells the OEM parts for about $600 and about $300 if I buy the non OEM parts. I know everyone is entitled to make a profit but that seems excessive. So maybe I will try to DIY.

particlewave · 08-11-2019, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob175

Thanks guys..... I’ve watched a few videos and agree it doesn’t look difficult. Hardest part for me is raising the car and put it on a jack stand since I don’t have either. But when my mechanic quoted over $1,200 to do the job I was shocked since Pelican sells the OEM parts for about $600 and about $300 if I buy the non OEM parts. I know everyone is entitled to make a profit but that seems excessive. So maybe I will try to DIY.

Just do one side at a time. A quick jack (just enough to get the wheel off) supported by a stand, pop the wheel liner out and go.

It goes fairly quickly.

Starter986 · 08-11-2019, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by particlewave

Just do one side at a time. A quick jack (just enough to get the wheel off) supported by a stand, pop the wheel liner out and go.

It goes fairly quickly.

This!!! Jack it up just enough to raise the tire.

An inexpensive socket set from HF... what... ~$30.

Plugs... coils... tubes... Likely WELL under $450, and all OEM. Filters? Air/oil/cabin... another $50.

The price your mechanic quoted? **************** me.

Obviously, any tools you purchase will pay for themselves the moment you conclude your maintenance/repair.

BYprodriver · 08-11-2019, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Starter986

This!!! Jack it up just enough to raise the tire.

An inexpensive socket set from HF... what... ~$30.

Plugs... coils... tubes... Likely WELL under $450, and all OEM. Filters? Air/oil/cabin... another $50.

The price your mechanic quoted? **************** me.

Obviously, any tools you purchase will pay for themselves the moment you conclude your maintenance/repair.

Do it right the 1st time with a Snap-On hex bit to remove the coil bolts. Or buy several new bolts in advance.

piper6909 · 08-11-2019, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

Do it right the 1st time with a Snap-On hex bit to remove the coil bolts. Or buy several new bolts in advance.

If you wrench for a living, Snap-on is the way to go.

But for everyone else and at a fraction of the costs, Craftsman makes great hand tools, and HF makes great impact sockets, hex bits and other specialty tools.

piper6909 · 08-11-2019, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob175

Thanks guys..... I’ve watched a few videos and agree it doesn’t look difficult. Hardest part for me is raising the car and put it on a jack stand since I don’t have either. But when my mechanic quoted over $1,200 to do the job I was shocked since Pelican sells the OEM parts for about $600 and about $300 if I buy the non OEM parts. I know everyone is entitled to make a profit but that seems excessive. So maybe I will try to DIY.

Do you have a Harbor Freight near you? You can get a set of jack stands pretty cheap:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/3-ton-steel-jack-stands-61196.html

Or try your local Craigslist listing for a used set.

Brian in Tucson · 08-11-2019, 09:04 AM

Do it yourself. Spend the money on the tools, which are a permanent investment. Also, the 3 ton jackstands aren't tall enough. My system, which I've accumulated over years is a pair of Rhino ramps (plastic, don't bend or rust,) a bunch of 1' by 1' by 2 wooden blocks (from new lumber.) And then an air/pneumatic 12 ton bottle jack (need a compressor for this,) and the 6 ton jackstands. I have a pair of the 3 ton ones, but they don't allow enough room to crawl around and work. Nice for doing brake jobs. The air jack really does make lots of work possible and almost pleasant.

tonythetiger · 08-15-2019, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson

Do it yourself. Spend the money on the tools, which are a permanent investment. Also, the 3 ton jackstands aren't tall enough. My system, which I've accumulated over years is a pair of Rhino ramps (plastic, don't bend or rust,) a bunch of 1' by 1' by 2 wooden blocks (from new lumber.) And then an air/pneumatic 12 ton bottle jack (need a compressor for this,) and the 6 ton jackstands. I have a pair of the 3 ton ones, but they don't allow enough room to crawl around and work. Nice for doing brake jobs. The air jack really does make lots of work possible and almost pleasant.

'
Agreed on the jack stands...the 3 tons don't extend enough to give you room for some things. you need 4 of them.
Buy a decent floor jack, you want at least 24" of lift (harbor freight, low profile long reach has been working fine for me and under 200 bucks) lift bars make it even easier to shimmy up each side and get some separation between the floor and the car.
I toss the tires underneath in case something goes wrong, figuring that will save me from most of the squish if the car falls.

Ciao · 08-11-2019, 08:13 AM

Perform a DIY on plugs, tubes, and buy one or two coils as backup when one goes

patssle · 08-14-2019, 07:59 PM

You can test coils with an ohm meter. Google for good number. I'm at 117k on all original coils last tested 5k miles ago.

SMK Shoe · 08-15-2019, 10:19 AM

I picked up a dozen hockey pucks off amazon for cheap. I use them on the contact points of the jack and jack stands. No chance of scraping paint. I agree on the coils. Order a couple and keep them on the shelf ( they don't eat anything). If you have a coil that needs replacing, it's right there. But I wouldn't replace them just because of milage. Other parts are really cheap and do wear out.

Rob175 · 08-16-2019, 04:40 AM

Can a cracked coil(s) cause AM radio static (at a slow crawl speed it's a "ticking" type sound) that inceases or decreases with acceleration or deceleration? I know resistor plugs are made to eliminate static, but I get some pretty significant AM static....but strangely it's not all the time, just most of the time.