While I'm in there...

[Starter986]

This weekend will find me removing my starter... cleaning and greasing it to eliminate the noise associated with the starter gear not retracting quickly enough.

AOS I replaced a few months ago, so that's good. I reach out to the community to see if there's anything else to which I should attend/inspect, while I have some room in there.

No codes. Idles perfectly at ~7K/8K. No unusual sounds.

125,000 miles.

Thank you.

[piper6909]

If you have time, I'd recommend checking the serpentine belt, hoses, change air filter, and maybe clean the throttle body and intake boots.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/28-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning_-_Boots/28-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning_-_Boots.htm

Also, I've read that the spark plug coils are prone to cracking. Maybe give them a look.

Good luck!

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by piper6909

If you have time, I'd recommend checking the serpentine belt, hoses, change air filter, and maybe clean the throttle body and intake boots.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/28-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning_-_Boots/28-FUEL-Throttle_Body_Cleaning_-_Boots.htm

Also, I've read that the spark plug coils are prone to cracking. Maybe give them a look.

Good luck!

Same time I replaced the AOS I replaced the plugs/coils/WP/LTT and dropped the oil pan. That stuff is under the car... so I'm looking for "in there" while I'm on the top.

I will clean the throttle body and intake boots, as they do get a little oily.

Thanks for the recommendations. Cheers!

[KRAM36]

FYI: Be careful with the oil pipe that runs over the starter area. If you try to push it out of the way too far to get to the bolts on the starter, you can break the pipe where it's bolted down to the engine.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

FYI: Be careful with the oil pipe that runs over the starter area. If you try to push it out of the way too far to get to the bolts on the starter, you can break the pipe where it's bolted down to the engine.

Thanks, Kram. I'll watch for that... as I've read it can be a pain to install. And that leads me to a question:

Couldn't that hard plastic pipe be replaced with some rubber tubing? Maybe a cut here... a cut there... introduce the rubber hose and worm-drive clamp to hold it together?

Burg... WP replaced <1K ago along with LTT. MM replaced while I was in there.

The serpentine belt looks fine... no squealing... no cracks... nice and snug. However, I'm not sure when last it was replaced. It seems rather solid. So... preventative replacement... or wait until next time I'm in there?

Thanks, Fellas!

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Thanks, Kram. I'll watch for that... as I've read it can be a pain to install. And that leads me to a question:

Couldn't that hard plastic pipe be replaced with some rubber tubing? Maybe a cut here... a cut there... introduce the rubber hose and worm-drive clamp to hold it together?

Thanks, Fellas!

I don't think the plastic is strong enough to hold the weight of the rubber hose, especially where it bolts to the engine. These little ears that hold the pipe on break easily. This is what I'm warning about, breaking the ears.



I also don't think the plastic tube is thick/strong enough to use a worm-drive clamp and that's why Porsche just uses a tension type hose clamp.





Full picture link (large) from the tutorial shows how close the pipe is to the stater. Be gentle with it.

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/images_large/Pic5.jpg

Also reading through Pelican's tutorial on changing the stater, they recommend to replace or reseal your oil cooler.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement.htm

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

I don't think the plastic is strong enough to hold the weight of the rubber hose, especially where it bolts to the engine. These little ears that hold the pipe on break easily. This is what I'm warning about, breaking the ears.



I also don't think the plastic tube is thick/strong enough to use a worm-drive clamp and that's why Porsche just uses a tension type hose clamp.





Full picture link (large) from the tutorial shows how close the pipe is to the stater. Be gentle with it.

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/images_large/Pic5.jpg

Also reading through Pelican's tutorial on changing the stater, they recommend to replace or reseal your oil cooler.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement/83-ELEC-Starter_Replacement.htm

Thanks, Pal. Yes... don't want to disturb those ears. I'll be gentle. And patient.

Installed an S cooler and the rings a few months ago. Thanks for the head-up.

Funland. SoCal by any chance?

Cheers!

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Thanks, Kram. I'll watch for that... as I've read it can be a pain to install. And that leads me to a question:

Couldn't that hard plastic pipe be replaced with some rubber tubing? Maybe a cut here... a cut there... introduce the rubber hose and worm-drive clamp to hold it together?

Burg... WP replaced <1K ago along with LTT. MM replaced while I was in there.

The serpentine belt looks fine... no squealing... no cracks... nice and snug. However, I'm not sure when last it was replaced. It seems rather solid. So... preventative replacement... or wait until next time I'm in there?

Thanks, Fellas!

Good tip from Kram... that crap gets very brittle and breaks easily what w/ all the German over-engineering and engine compartment heat.

You were in there for W/P and didn't do serp belt, w/ unknown history, whilst there? Shame on you

Did it have any clearly legible white printing left? If little, none, or not legible then yeah, I'd do now while in there or it'll likely be the reason you go back in (old belt was 'seasoned' w/ the old W/P... if you know what I mean). It's cheap insurance and keep the used one as an emergency backup (wrapped up behind your compact donut in the frunk is a good location). This way if the new ever breaks you won't be stuck on side of road in a small town in the middle of nowhere on a holiday weekend wishing for both a correct size belt and 15/16 socket and wrench... you'll just need the socket & wrench

Good luck!

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by Burg Boxster

Good tip from Kram... that crap gets very brittle and breaks easily what w/ all the German over-engineering and engine compartment heat.

You were in there for W/P and didn't do serp belt, w/ unknown history, whilst there? Shame on you

Did it have any clearly legible white printing left? If little, none, or not legible then yeah, I'd do now while in there or it'll likely be the reason you go back in (old belt was 'seasoned' w/ the old W/P... if you know what I mean). It's cheap insurance and keep the used one as an emergency backup (wrapped up behind your compact donut in the frunk is a good location). This way if the new ever breaks you won't be stuck on side of road in a small town in the middle of nowhere on a holiday weekend wishing for both a correct size belt and 15/16 socket and wrench... you'll just need the socket & wrench

Good luck!

Oh... I'm shamed.

I don't recall if it still had the white lettering, I believe not. I removed it when I replaced the WP... inspected it... and it looked brand new. However... I get the "seasoned" part and, when next I place a Pelican order (to include transmission filter kit) I'll order that "cheap insurance". Thanks!

Originally Posted by Geof3

Check the top of your engine for power steering fluid, the pump overflow pukes it out on top of the motor, makes a nasty mess. Check your PS fluid too, maybe consider replacing.

Last week I had the cover off, and noticed a sharp hose kink about 2 inches from where it exits the reservoir. Cut it off just behind the kink... bought a couple feet of hose and will replace it this weekend. I've looked into replacing the fluid... and it appears I'll be getting under the car... disconnecting a line... draining... and refilling. Looks to be a real pain in the ass. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers!

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by Starter986

Oh... I'm shamed.

I don't recall if it still had the white lettering, I believe not. I removed it when I replaced the WP... inspected it... and it looked brand new. However... I get the "seasoned" part and, when next I place a Pelican order (to include transmission filter kit) I'll order that "cheap insurance". Thanks!



Last week I had the cover off, and noticed a sharp hose kink about 2 inches from where it exits the reservoir. Cut it off just behind the kink... bought a couple feet of hose and will replace it this weekend. I've looked into replacing the fluid... and it appears I'll be getting under the car... disconnecting a line... draining... and refilling. Looks to be a real pain in the ass. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers!

Or, and it’s not quite as good but works, is drain your res, refill, start car wheels back and forth, drain refill, rinse/repeat etc. that will “freshen up” the fluid to some degree. The best replacement though is to get under the car... it’s not as bad as it seems. The mess on top of the engine from old, dead, puked up PS fluid is harder to clean, than replacing the fluid!

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by Starter986

This weekend will find me removing my starter... cleaning and greasing it to eliminate the noise associated with the starter gear not retracting quickly enough.

AOS I replaced a few months ago, so that's good. I reach out to the community to see if there's anything else to which I should attend/inspect, while I have some room in there.

No codes. Idles perfectly at ~7K/8K. No unusual sounds.

125,000 miles.

Thank you.

Well, a lot depends on what HAS been done vis-a-vis while you are in there.

At very least the serp belt ($25-30) is a no brainer if not done in past few years /50k miles. With starter you'll likely find to get full access you'll want to get to front side of motor too. So might as well just remove panel behind seats at onset as opposed to in frustration 1/2 way thru. Thus suggestion for serp belt (5min more).

Obviously inspect all idlers & pulleys for abnormal wear/signs of potential failure along w/ P/S and H2O pumps. IF you do a fair amount of track/DEs you should consider an under drive pulley. Has water pump ever been done or rather when last done? With 125k on the clock you're on borrowed time again depending on what has been done previously and when.

Good luck

[YellowS2000]

I had this problem when my starter motor dried out. It wouldn't make the screech all the time but usually when there was loads of people about.... so embarrassing.

I ended up buying a new starter that fixed it. I also cleaned the throttle body at the same time making tick over smoother.

Trying to get the big air pipes back on the throttle body nearly put me in anger management class.

[KRAM36]

Nah, I live pretty close to the center of the USA.

[Geof3]

Check the top of your engine for power steering fluid, the pump overflow pukes it out on top of the motor, makes a nasty mess. Check your PS fluid too, maybe consider replacing.