I started thinking again about what you said about your light switch, and thought that might be part of the issue (as I had read somewhere else about a flickering cluster related to faulty light switch) but I re-watched your video and remembered that the warning lights were also flashing (not just the information lights), so now I'm leaning back to the issue not being in your light switch...however if you were having issues with your light switch, now seems as good a time as any to replace it. ;)

Regarding your posted voltages on B1, mine shows a slightly lower reading (.5v) than others (ie B10), but I am not seeing a voltage drop (as you reported) by switching the ignition on, which makes me think it's indeed the ignition....but I thought you just replaced it. Did you check the condition of the wires and connectors when you swapped the switch?

I stated earlier that I reserve the right to change my mind at any time (lol) but now I'm half leaning against a fault in the cluster, but unfortunately, the other half still is.

Is the engine running, when you test the voltage?

If the engine is running, the voltage has to be around 13,8 voilts at the starter battery and maybe a little tiny bit lower at the gage cluster main voltage input.

If the engine is running and you read 9.7 volt means that there is a bad connection or the voltage regulator of your alternator is bad.

If the cluster gets too low voltage a result can be that flickering.

If the input voltage for the cluster is OK – around 13.8 volts when the engine is running i would say the cluster electronics has a problem. So open it up and investigate the pcb for bad solder connections.

Regards, Markus

If there is a voltage regulator resident on the cluster, it could drop out like you are seeing with the flashing when it is going bad or when it is not getting adequate voltage input. It does seem strange that your B1 voltage fluctuates as much as it does. The flashing could also be a voltage regulator dropping out to protect itself from a short somewhere. Troubleshooting can be a major pain! You said this all started after replacing the battery?

No, I replaced the battery going on a year ago with zero issues. This cropped up out of the blue during a Sunday drive.

The fuse voltage readings are not unusual, despite what Markus said.
Every meter varies slightly and voltage will change under load, so unless you disconnect everything else in the circuit, you may see slight variations.

This is almost certainly a cluster issue. If it were me, my next step would be to pull the cluster and power it up on the bench to rule the car out. Next, disassemble cluster and check continuity on the pins (looking for a broken solder joint). If all was good there, I'd move on to the onboard power supply.

This is the best advice yet...up to this point I think we were all trying to give assistance based on what you said your electronics skills are and trying to find a simple fix; before you proceed, please do an honest assessment of your comfort and skills. Checking for simple continuity isn't going to harm anything, but if you find something amiss, do you feel comfortable opening the cluster and checking the board? Or if you were to open the cluster and find a burnt spot on the board, are you prepared to repair or swap the board?

Apologies for sounding gloomy, and I'm all for DIY, but as someone who has opened up many things just to find that it's something I can't repair (and perhaps made things worse, lol) I just wanted to caution you as to where this may lead. Should you go this route, I think there's a pretty good DIY on here regarding how to disassemble the cluster.

Best wishes.

OK, i agree with MWS. You need to know what you're looking for when you open the IC and you'll need to have the skills and tools to do the repair. And yes, if you don't have the tools and skills ans some know how you can make it worse.

On the other hand: the cars warranty is long gone. And there are videos out there that show how to diisassemble the ic unit. For example: https://youtu.be/E-Fw05jsPWo

So maybe the video can help to decide if you DIY or ask some professionals.

Regards, Markus

Thanks guys...I don't think it's the IC. I completely disconnected it, and I'm getting the same readings at the fuse box.

Fuses B1-B4 are not routed through the ignition switch I've found, and are live 12V, fed from the power distributor. I'm getting a reading of 11.7V at B1 and B1, but I'm not getting any reading at B3 and B4 (numbers on my meter are jumping all over the place).

I think there's something between the power distributor and the fuse box, or perhaps at issue at the fuse box itself.

There's also a relay indicated in that circuit. Does anyone know specifically which relay that is, and its location?

OK, you guys aren't going to be happy with me...:(

I've been measuring voltage across the fuse. So, measuring the 12V+ side of the fuse, and grounding to chassis, I'm getting 12.4V across fuses B1 - B4. I measured all the way from the battery, to the fuse box, only to realize my error. What a dope I am.

Anyway, I think I've ruled out the battery, charging system, current distributor, fuse box, and fuses. My next step is to measure voltage at the cluster power connector. If I have 12V+ there, I believe it would be safe to assume the issue is with the cluster itself.

Sorry for the wild goose chase, I know you guys have been getting a headache over this one. Yes, I already put $1 worth of quarters in the ass-kicking machine. If there's any consolation, I'm working my way passed my fears of working on electrical!!!

Do you guys know how the pins are the black cluster connector are numbered?

Never mind, with a magnifying glass, I can see the connector itself is numbered. I'll report back with my results.

OK, I checked voltage at the pins provided by "particlewave" (thank you!!!), and I'm getting 12+ volts at all pin locations, from both grounds.

I think/hope it's safe to assume it's the cluster itself. I'm nowhere near capable of repairing the cluster, unless something is glaringly obvious, so I'll have to send it out.

My last question is, how the heck do you get the wiring harness off the back of the hazard switch?

Figured it out. Cluster is on my desk. I'll give it a brief look.

Thanks everyone for the great help!!!! Hope I can repay it sometime!