At this point I'd put my marker (which I reserve the right to move at anytime, lol) on the cluster itself...reasoning fault may reside on circuit board. I've never torn into a cluster, and wouldn't recommend you do without some thought, but at least maybe with cluster out you could start checking continuity across pin locations (I'm sure particlewave could provide pin map). I'm also thinking that the flashing cluster *could* be due to a voltage supply issue to cluster so also check voltage at cluster connector. You also mentioned light switch...again *maybe* if the switch isn't working correctly (ie internally the switch isn't making clean contacts between locations when turned) it *could* result in odd behavior at cluster due to changes in voltage...with cluster connected, have you tried moving the switch about and/or observing not only the cluster but also the lights?

Please forgive my coulds, maybes and asterisks...I'm just thinking out loud as to what might be the issue. Until you start stabbing around with a multimeter, it's just guesses...but then again, some random action might suddenly lead you to what item is at fault. I often am amazed/confused at interconnected complex circuits and how a failure at some seemingly unrelated item can cause "spooky actions at a distance" or akin to a butterfly flapping it's wings in Africa... :). My approach is "think things through as best you can, then start guessing, rinse and repeat". Best wishes. ;)

I checked operation of the lights, and they don't react to the cluster blinking on/off, so I'm going to go with the assumption that it's not related. First click on the ignition switch the cluster lights up, and then second click on the ignition it starts the blinking routine. Oddly enough, it almost seems like it's on a blinker type of relay, the way it clicks on/off is a very distinct pattern.

The blinkers work fine, as do the hazards.

What connector should I use to test voltage to the cluster, and which pins within that connector? I'm going to order an ignition switch today, and cross my fingers that's the issue.

Thanks a bunch!! I hate when stuff doesn't work as it should.

Before I go any further with this, is there any way to determine if it's the cluster, or something else electrically with the car?

Not easily. Based on your statement about the flashing starting on the second ignition position, but not on the first, start by replacing the ignition switch.

They're cheap. ;)

OK, I've got that on order. Should arrive Monday. Crossing my fingers that's the issue, as I can't venture a wild guess beyond that.

Well, after exiting from under the dash after a couple incidents with mild claustrophobia, I left with the ignition switch in hand. I took the old one apart, and it looks pristine, although I realize looks can be deceiving.

I also determined that I ordered the wrong switch. It looks like the entire ignition assembly must have been replaced back in '11, as it has the updated '04 and later switch. Dang it anyway.

You should be able to get one from a local auto parts store.

Yes, if you have electronics tech skills. If not, there isn't an easy way to test the cluster itself.

I keep a spare cluster for exactly this purpose. And so I have a spare if one fails.

My electrical skills are rudimentary, particularly when it comes to troubleshooting. If I knew which pins to use in the connectors to test voltage, at least I could rule out whether the issue was somewhere in the car, or in the cluster itself. If figure if I'm getting the proper voltage at the connectors, it would have to be the cluster.

Now I see why the call it a cluster. :p

Ground: black connector, pins 8 & 21.

12V+: black connector, pins 10 & 23 (from fuse B1), pins 12 & 25 (from fuse B10), pin 1 (from ignition through fuse E1).

Awesome! Thanks!

I was having a similar issue. My security system light was flashing and when I tried to unlock my car with the key fob, it didn't work at all. When I unlocked the car with the key, the front hood and rear truck would release intermittently. The car would start, but not all the time and when I applied the brake while driving, the dome light would come on and the locks would engage and disengage. In reading the above vine, I disconnected then reconnected the battery and now everything seems fine. The only issue is that my key fob will not lock or unlock the car. Any ideas?

Well, as I suspected from the condition of the ignition switch that I removed, the new one I just installed did not correct the flashing gauge cluster issue. At this point, next step is to see what kind of voltage I'm getting at the cluster.

Is there a pin diagram of the connector so I can determine the pin numbering? Also, is there a relay anywhere in the ignition circuit?

Ok, here's an update:

1. Battery voltage with the car off is 12.6V

2. Battery voltage with the car running is 14.1V

3. If I remove only the B1 fuse with the car running, the gauge cluster goes dark and quiet

4. If I remove only the B10 fuse, the gauges stop working/twitching, all the indicator lights go out, and only the 3 lower screens remain lit with mileage, digital speedo, and clock, and the door chime works as well. No flashing indicator lights.

The flashing lights and twitching gauges seem to be related to the B1 fuse circuit. Thoughts?



Thanks!

My thought is still that your issue lies with the cluster, but for giggles you could check the voltage at B1 (to make sure it's constant) and also (per particlewave's post):

"Ground: black connector, pins 8 & 21.
12V+: black connector, pins 10 & 23 (from fuse B1), pins 12 & 25 (from fuse B10), pin 1 (from ignition through fuse E1)."

Check voltage at these pin locations, also check for continuity at corresponding pins on cluster (when removed, of course). Beyond that, it sounds like you need to have your cluster diagnosed; apologies, I don't have a suggestion on where to send it to...

Thanks for the input....Is there a diagram of the pin arrangement so I know how it's numbered? If not, is it simply 1 through whatever, left to right?

They should be numbered on the connector...at least the first and last pins.

OK, guess I'll need my glasses then! Just to be clear, this is the black connector, not the white or blue one...

Yes, black.

Wanted to update this after a bunch of troubleshooting today. Next step is to test voltage at the connector:

Voltage at the B1 fuse location is as follows:

Ignition off - 11.2V

Ignition on - 9.7V

Engine on - 10.7V

So, it looks like the voltage at the B1 fuse is low. Voltage at the B10 fuse is 12.7V, and the same at other fuse locations on the box.

What's interesting, is if I remove the B10 fuse, the voltage at the B1 fuse rises by 1V.

Now I need to determine why there's low voltage at the B1 fuse location. Problem is, I have no clue where to start! :rolleyes: