I have angered the gods...

[ike84]

In my quest for a keyless ignition, I have buggered something up.

Essentially, the car is acting as if there is no key in the ignition. But there is...and the ring and receiver are connected as they should be.

I checked my fuses and everything is intact. I pulled the starter relay and bypassed the terminals and the engine will indeed crank with my push buttons but will not turn over, telling me that the fuel pp relay also isn't getting activated. This tells me that the ecu is acting like it's not sensing the key.

I'm sure there's something im missing here... Another fuse, relay, connection point, grounding wire, something that blew or got knocked loose while under the dash.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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[Smallblock454]

Which model year?

[Stl-986]

check the fuse on the immobilizer?

[ike84]

2000 base.

Is there a fuse on the immobilizer itself?

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[ike84]

Update -

Windows don't work

Central locking switch doesn't work

Manual locking the car from outside with key gives single beep

**************** me

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[Stl-986]

yes, there is a fuse on the immobilizer itself

[JFP in PA]

Little blue thing:

[Stl-986]

You do have the battery hooked up and it has a charge right?
What all have yo done since it last started/etc?
The lights work when you open the door? Headlights turn on? Get anythig when you turn the key to the on position?

[ike84]

Look at that, you learn something new every day!

The battery is probably on the low side because I haven't run it in quite a while, but it certainly isn't dead and all my 12v leads are showing 12.4V.

Its hard to explain what I've done lol...

I have spliced in switch controlled relays for the power coming into the ignition switch and for the ignition wire itself

I have also installed new wires for OBC control

I did foolishly ground out the 12v lead coming from the current distributor (lost track of whether battery was connected or disconnected, which I have done probably. 50 times during this process)

It didn't blow the fuse though, that lead is still hot.

I have also run a **************** ton of wiring through the center console

I didn't mention this earlier but I also found a kill switch installed (not my handiwork) which was a switch controlled relay controlling a brown wire grounding to the clutch switch (the one that feeds back to ecu to start the car for US versions)

I've also removed the clutch boost spring and bypassed the clutch switch (the one which senses clutch depression and tells the ecu to pull timing during shifts)

I got the immob loose and then was confronted by a naked 13 mo old with a hammer... So I've gotta finish pulling it out and check that fuse. Hopefully that's all it is.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I really appreciate it



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[Stl-986]

distributor?

Simple tests...does the dash light up when you put the key in the on position?

[ike84]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

distributor?

Simple tests...does the dash light up when you put the key in the on position?

The dash has been off this whole time so not sure

The current distributor is a box of solid state fuses under the passenger dash it gets a direct feed from the battery hot terminal.

The Immob fuse is fine. Board doesn't show any scorch.

I've gotta read about immob errors. I think the single horn thing may be part of it.

I also forgot to mention that I resoldered the roof microswitxh contacts. I know the. motion sensor ties back into ecu too.

Lots of homework to do

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[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

distributor?

Simple tests...does the dash light up when you put the key in the on position?

could be the 'power distributor box' that's located between the glovebox and the firewall..?

[ike84]

Hi kids! Do you like violence? Wanna see me stick mine inch nails through each one of my eyelids?


**************** Stuttgart, clever bastards.

I figured it out, will post later

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[ike84]

Behold!

Edit - failed attempt at publishing a video of the keyless ignition in action

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[ike84]

Ok, here's the deal

The ignition switch is not just a wiper switch

As you turn the key, the steering column lock mechanism extends a pin down into the ignition switch. This then causes 12v to contact to term 86s (or 68s, I forget, I'm tired, it's the black wire)

Anyway, without that little switch being depressed, half the electronics on the car don't fire up.

This is a pretty clever way to avoid someone hotwiring the car.

Anyway, here's my solution -



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[ike84]

Again, thank you to everyone who offered advice! I guess we can throw this in the bin of "more esoteric 986 **************** that will never apply to someone else's car" lol

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