Audio Upgrade Project Sanity Check

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by alm001

Sounds a lot like my approach, so I approve!

What are the airspace requirements for those subs? The door enclosures are approx .14ft^3 (3.96L) from my research.
I went with more of a midwoofer for my doors. (I wanted a simple 2 way) I used the Dayton RS150P-4A, and they are just about perfect for the enclosure volume.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs150p-4a-6-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-563

In the dash I only have a tweeter. I may think about doubling up on the tweeters in the future so I can cross them over lower. (I have a thing for arrays)

I have a build thread on diymobileaudio.com that I don't update very often.
2002 Porsche Boxster S - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum





Best of luck!

I like your thread on the audio forum, also loved the Binary license plate I am an IT Manager so like weird stuff.

Those require a closed box and the volume maybe just a little shy I think it was .15 min on those. I figure since I have the extra boxes I can cut em seal em what ever.

I was looking at the tank woofer saw some 996 guys had used them but don't like the power rating.

So after I made this post today started looking at speakers again. I can't seem to find a component 3 way I can afford or want to afford. I did see a 6.5 mid installed in a 996 on the JLAudio sight, was a BH I think, but it only comes in a 2 way.

Looked at the JBL GTO separates price range fits $250 again 2 way. While on the JBL sight noticed a under seat sub, which might fit 2.75" tall, 9.5" wide by 14" deep.
Going to do some measuring. Anyway, hard decision and I can't go any where to listen to speakers here.

[Cunningr]

Well pulled the trigger on the head unit. Pioneer DEH PRS 80, purchase from cruthfield used there pre wire service. In theory plug and play install.

[azlvr]

High quality 6.5 speakers in the doors with lots of power will give you all the bass you need. Look at higher quality speakers like Audison, Hertz, Focal. 3” in the dash with tweeters. I have 150w per channel, lots of power gives you a loud system even with top down. Remember you can always turn it down but you can’t go any higher than max.

[Cunningr]

Originally Posted by azlvr

High quality 6.5 speakers in the doors with lots of power will give you all the bass you need. Look at higher quality speakers like Audison, Hertz, Focal. 3” in the dash with tweeters. I have 150w per channel, lots of power gives you a loud system even with top down. Remember you can always turn it down but you can’t go any higher than max.

Not sure i like the price point on those. Power wise looking no more than 100 watts rms mains, and 300 for sub channel. The focals are out of my price i like the k2 line but budget. Crutchfield rep picked some jl audio 5.25 shallow subs for the doors, but a little over $300 for the pair. They match the box volume so should work. Too complicated. Was at a sight called madisound diy speaker builder sight, have some morels and other brands. Tough decision.

[morgal48]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

Not sure i like the price point on those. Power wise looking no more than 100 watts rms mains, and 300 for sub channel. The focals are out of my price i like the k2 line but budget. Crutchfield rep picked some jl audio 5.25 shallow subs for the doors, but a little over $300 for the pair. They match the box volume so should work. Too complicated. Was at a sight called madisound diy speaker builder sight, have some morels and other brands. Tough decision.

I kept my CDR220 and installed 4 ea. of the Madisound 3" midrange in the rear speaker deck to replace the factory originals, and put Polk Audio 2-ways in the dash. I also considered changing to a larger door speaker but found that the sound from the factory 5.25" door subs with the new Polk Audio 5-channel amp I installed made a significant difference in sound. The 4X70w @ 4-ohms and 1X500w @ 1-ohm power output w/the 2 ohm factory door speakers in parallel sounds better than I thought it might. Tuning the amp properly makes a huge difference. I got a car audio shop to show me how to do that.
THINGS I LEARNED: I planned to use either the factory amp or CD changer bracket, but sizewise those did not work. If you're really lucky you can use the existing mounting holes; I was not and could only use one. There is a hole in the firewall near the steering column you can use to run power and control between the head unit and the amp. Littlefuse fuses won't fit in a Boss Audio fuseholder.