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Old 05-30-2017, 11:31 AM   #1
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Can anyone provide torque specs (deep sump related)

Afternoon fellas.

I'm installing the TuneRS deepsump over the weekend and I haven't been able to find torque specs for the following:

Oil pump pickup tube to oil pump bolts

Swirl pot/deaerators/return tubes to engine case

Thanks

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Old 05-31-2017, 05:10 PM   #2
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Both the oil pump pickup bolts and the swirl pot bolts are M6x20 which should be torqued to 10NM or 7.5 ft-lbs.
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Last edited by thstone; 05-31-2017 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 05-31-2017, 07:56 PM   #3
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Wow

That is light, I would have thought much higher
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Old 06-01-2017, 04:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone View Post
Both the oil pump pickup bolts and the swirl pot bolts are M6x20 which should be torqued to 10NM or 7.5 ft-lbs.
You da man,
thanks.

PD, the bolts are M6, which is actually pretty tiny. They won't stand up to a lot of torque so this number makes sense.
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:55 AM   #5
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The M6 steel bolts -they are going into aluminum alloy - that is the limiting factor, not thread deformation of steel bolts.
The deep sump kit - a few things I did that seem to work:
1. Make sure you install the horizontal baffle in the most effective location relative to the spacer. Above or below - why? In the wrong place the horizontal baffle is relatively ineffective imho. I debated them on this and they eventually conceded by changing their Instructions.
2. Make sure the flaps in the windage walls seal reasonably well.The better kits use s/s flaps with rubber seals because this is an issue on long sweepers.
3. Consider replacing the bolts for the sump plate+2 qt.extender with the correct length s/s studs(EBay). Full thread is O.K.This eliminates the risk of destroying threads in the crankcase halves by over torquing.If you use blue Loctite on the threads into the crankcase ,it works well. Use flange nuts with wicking green Loctite after you do the final torquing.
4.Consider a sump guard/slide
5.Run at least 1 pint lower than max on the dipstick to reduce AOS/overfilling issues
6.Mark your new oil filler cap with the new oil capacity(paint pen) I suggest increasing by only 1 pint because the rear timing chain tensioner always retains almost a pint of old oil. Overfilling at oil change time is easy and has awful results. Much easier to top off after than clean-up the plenums !
Remember that with an extra 2qt./4 pint capacity of the Deep Sump kit, running 1 pint below the max mark on the dipstick is actually immersing the oil pick up in an extra 3 pints of oil compared to stock.Do not over-fill.
I hope this gives you food for thought.

Last edited by Gelbster; 06-01-2017 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 06-01-2017, 09:32 AM   #6
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yes, the horizontal baffle is going above the spacer as the current instructions state. I'm using a EBS racing baffle with the SS flaps, so i'll be making the same modifications as THstone did.

I plan to run just the bolts provided.

Point noted about the oil overfilling.
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Old 06-01-2017, 02:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Pdwight View Post
That is light, I would have thought much higher
Every time that I look that up, I think: That can't be right! Then I double check it and sure enough, the torque is 7.5 ft-lbs. Still seems like far too little torque but that's what the spec says.
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Last edited by thstone; 06-01-2017 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 06-01-2017, 02:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone View Post
Every time that I look that up, I think: That can't be right! Then I double check it and sure enough, the torque is 7.5 ft-lbs. Still seems like far to0 little torque but that's what the spec says.
Exactly why I love Wicking Grade Loctite :-).

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