Brakes, PSM, SS lines, caliper rebuild, bleeding?

[Coaster]

After my last visit to the shop they told me its about time to do the brakes. I haven't done a lot of work on the car but I think for a basic rotor and pad swap I should be ok. However, I may do some extra stuff "while I'm there".

First, according to the search feature, I can bleed the brakes even with PSM if I don't get air in the system, correct? I'll get the pressure bleeder.

Second, I'd like to powder coat the calipers. While they're off, I might as well replace the seals, etc. I think I'll pull the calipers, pinch off the old lines and do the powder coating/rebuild. Next, replace the rotors, install the calipers/pads, and then swap the old rubber lines with the SS lines. Will I lose a lot of brake fluid while doing this? Too much such that I'll need the PWIS to actuate the valves? Should I rebuild calipers, hook up the old rubber lines to them, bleed the system, then swap the SS lines and re-bleed?

Trying to figure out figure out the reinstall sequence without requiring durametic tool.

caliper - rubber hose - bleed - SS lines - bleed
or
caliper - SS lines - bleed


Finally, I need to bleed the clutch too? While doing the clutch, it needs to be depressed?

TIA

[Gelbster]

This may be a good time to consider Durametric? I have not done a brake job with Durametric(instead of PWIS) .Maybe it would help you if others would comment on their experience using both ?
My clutch slave experience with Motive Bleeder may be wrong but I did mine without depressing the clutch pedal. I did it several times as part of refitting the engine and gearbox after a rebuild.It worked fine.

[JFP in PA]

When opening the hydraulic system, you want to prevent gravity from draining the parts you are not going to be replacing. You can disconnect your rubber flex lines one at a time, capping or plugging the hard lines to prevent the system draining. Then you can do what every you want or need to do, finally replacing the calipers with the new SS braided lines and connecting them one at a time to the hard lines. Now you will need to bleed the system. beg, borrow, or steal a Motive pressure bleeder to do the job.

Normally, you would bleed or flush the clutch system while doing the brakes, so yes, it is a good time to do it. And while bleeding the clutch, you should have the clutch pedal held to the floor.

Unless you let the system drain and get air into the ABS/PSM system controls, the use of the Durametric or PIWIS is not required.

[Coaster]

Thank you both!