Trouble with strut bolt

[DWBOX2000]

Not my car. Friend's
99 Boxster
Trying to replace front left strut. Can not get bolt that holds strut to wheel carrier. Stuck. Any suggestions?

[JayG]

Are you referring to the droplink bolt? Post a pic of what you are referring to
You need to releave the tension on it
Put a jack under the ball joint and slowly raise it up until the tension is released and it will come right out

[DWBOX2000]

That's the bolt. If I remember correctly, the strut is held at the top by a mount (3 bolts) and one bolt which holds strut to housing. I will relay the message.

[DWBOX2000]

Thanks for your help.

[jakeru]

That bolt, if the one I'm thinking of, fastens the swaybar to the strut.

To make it easier to remove, be sure to alleviate stress on the anti-swaybar, such as by jacking up the whole end of the car (not just one side.)

Edit: looks like JayG beat me to it.

[Gilles]

Sadly I had to remove mine with a dremel tool because the bolt was fused to the hub (..!)

But it was a good excuse to update to the Tarrett drop links and this time I used anti-seize compound.

[DWBOX2000]

Gold bolt in middle. I think it's the drop link.

[JayG]

Yup, that's the droplink
Call Jason at warehouse 33 auto dot com (remove the spaces) he can get you a deal on Tarett

[jakeru]

Is the problem that the whole thing spins when trying to remove the nut? [If so, you'll want to counter-hold the wrench flats, or otherwise, maybe impact wrench or hammer can "jar" the nut loose.]

Or is the problem that after the nut is completely removed, you're having trouble withdrawing the bolt from the steering knuckle?
[if so, the main thing is to alleviate tension on the bolt. You can make sure the swaybar is not stressed, and relieve the weight of the strut by jacking up a modest amount on the ball joint. Modest amount means the strut's spring is just barely starting to compress.

You can also hammer lightly on the bolt end. Recommend being careful here and just going light, to avoid mushrooming the threads. Using a steel rod or something can help save the bolt end. You can also partway-fasten the nut and hammer on the nut, to save the end of the bolt. But to reiterate, relieve the pressure on the bolt, and gently tap it free. It will come out!

I also 100% second the notion to clean and anti-seize all of these suspension fasteners that you encounter, before buttoning things back up.]

[DWBOX2000]

He partially screwed the nut back on the non-sway bar link end And then hammered it hard and it moved a half of an inch and then even with hard hammering barely moved. I wonder if the slot in the hub/strut holding aluminum assembly has opened up too much causing the two bores in either side of the hub/strut assembly not to be concentric and thus causing the bolt to bind.

[JayG]

It should slide right in.
No need to uses brute force and ignorance

[guitarmanable]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Gold bolt in middle. I think it's the drop link.

Hi, I know this is an old post, but really interesting to see the 3D image of the wheel carrier. Was it just a screen shot, or do you have 3D files for the assembly?