01-14-2017, 07:50 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 108
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Replacing a hub carrier
I got a bad right rear wheel bearing and I'm too broke to afford the sir tool. So I'm going to just buy a used hub carrier from quality porsche parts (hopefully as a good bandaid) are there any tips to getting the hub off the CVS axle without removing too much, and also the parking brake cable.
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01-14-2017, 08:18 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DE
Posts: 126
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A couple tips -
Remember to loosen the axle nut before jacking up the car. I use a 1-1/4" socket, 3/4" drive.
I loosened the inner mounting bolt for the lower control arm so it would drop out of the way and make it easier to slide the carrier off the strut and half shaft.
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01-14-2017, 09:14 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 108
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Thanks, and tips about the parking brake. That's the only thing I've been trying to figure out.
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01-14-2017, 06:47 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,498
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For the parking brake, loosen the adjustment bolt in the interior, under your center console cubby. When the rotor is off, you'll see where the cable terminates on the hub and can disconnect it at that point. You pull the cable out of the hub and you're all set.
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01-14-2017, 06:49 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Axel nut
I broke a 3 foot cheater bar breaking one of mine loose, 32MM I believe. On the next one I used a Impact driver rated at 110 ft lbs and it spun the factory one right off....getting over 300 ft lbs for reinstall took a new breaker bar and some math....and me standing on the bar
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01-15-2017, 09:39 AM
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#6
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I am my own mechanic....
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
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I welded a bracket to straddle the hub and used a CV puller to remove / replace the bearing with hub on car still.
__________________
'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
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01-15-2017, 10:10 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timco
I welded a bracket to straddle the hub and used a CV puller to remove / replace the bearing with hub on car still.
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That is a great suggestion that would help the OP who is too broke to buy the SIR Tool(aren't we all too broke for SIR tools?)
Timco - a photo of your welded up CV joint puller may help future diyers.
Here is a link to a Thread on the B90 Sir Tools puller with photos.More in google
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-racing-forum/61214-boxster-s-front-wheel-bearing-replacement.html
Try the OTC hub Grappler,Hub Shark or generic alternative ?
rent from Autozone?Probably free if you buy some of the parts from them.
Last edited by Gelbster; 01-15-2017 at 10:20 AM.
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01-15-2017, 07:25 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Harbor freight
I used a Harbor Freight to pull mine on the car, used a large bearing separator to pull the bub....never had to break down the hub carrier or have a realignment.
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01-17-2017, 06:51 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 108
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I went this route because it is the fastest and cheapest way. Did look at harbor freight and other bearing pullers but the hub part kept getting me. I only get 5 hours to do this as I'm doing it on a work day. I also committed to buying a used hub carrier, caliper bolts, and axle nut to do the job so I have to follow through.
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01-17-2017, 06:51 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Replacing the hub carrier
If you are replacing the hub carrier there is no need to try and pull the old one in place. Break down the carrier and remove, take it to a machine shop or if you have a hydraulic press install a new wheel bearing and hub....reassemble and have it aligned. Usually pulling the hub will pull the race off the wheel bearing, and while you have it out and apart you might well nip this in the bud for later.
Dwight
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01-17-2017, 09:57 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 65
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My wheel bearing replacement job is on hold until I figure out how to remove the hub. I bought the large bearing separator from Harbor Freight. But the hub still will not budged.
The axle nut is easy. Using the handle of my floor jack makes removing the nut a short order.
Last edited by moosport; 01-17-2017 at 10:12 PM.
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01-18-2017, 07:58 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,029
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A little squirt of Kroil every day and gentle tapping with a brass punch to try to loosen up any corrosion.Eventually the puller will work. Much better than using extreme force.
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01-18-2017, 06:48 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 2,079
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Had this same problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by moosport
My wheel bearing replacement job is on hold until I figure out how to remove the hub. I bought the large bearing separator from Harbor Freight. But the hub still will not budged.
The axle nut is easy. Using the handle of my floor jack makes removing the nut a short order.
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I had to order longer bolts than the using the lug bolts, I got them at MR. Metric
This is what you will need
http://www.mrmetric.com/M41086
A word of caution, once you have three bolts making contact with the bearing seperator , go only a turn at a time or less in a crosswise patters or you will bend the bolt...I know. Once you do this the hub came off pretty easy....and yes the bearing came apart when I did this. When you pull the actual bearing it iwll take a pilot a little smaller than you think....keep the puller greased very well with a high quality lubricant (Do not even think of using WD40 it is not a lubricant) and that bearing will come right out.
Last edited by Pdwight; 01-18-2017 at 07:01 PM.
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01-20-2017, 04:15 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdwight
I had to order longer bolts than the using the lug bolts, I got them at MR. Metric
This is what you will need
M41086 - M14X1.5X60 Hex Bolt Cap Screw Steel 8.8 DIN961 Fully Thread
A word of caution, once you have three bolts making contact with the bearing seperator , go only a turn at a time or less in a crosswise patters or you will bend the bolt...I know. Once you do this the hub came off pretty easy....and yes the bearing came apart when I did this. When you pull the actual bearing it iwll take a pilot a little smaller than you think....keep the puller greased very well with a high quality lubricant (Do not even think of using WD40 it is not a lubricant) and that bearing will come right out.
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Placing an order for it right now. I was wondering why the hub has not budge but I'm out of thread.
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01-24-2017, 03:43 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 108
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I'm stuck and in dire need of help, the lower control arm ball joint won't come out and I ran out of tools to use, pickle fork won't work and the pitman arm tool doesn't fit in between the axle and ballet joint
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01-24-2017, 04:55 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang2porsche
I'm stuck and in dire need of help, the lower control arm ball joint won't come out and I ran out of tools to use, pickle fork won't work and the pitman arm tool doesn't fit in between the axle and ballet joint
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It is easier (and safer for the ball joint), to remove the bolt that attaches the lower control arm to the subframe...
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01-19-2017, 05:59 AM
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#17
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I am my own mechanic....
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
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Totally crude. Welded it in 15 minutes. Kept adding steel until it wouldn't give. I have lots of scrap around but it's mild steel. Then buy a hardened all thread and nuts / washers and a HF CV puller kit. The legs just need to be tall enough for the bearing to fit out.
__________________
'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
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01-19-2017, 07:14 AM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S.California
Posts: 2,029
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Perfect-ly crude & ugly .But wonderfully cheap & effective. Just what we need.Thank you for posting the photo
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01-19-2017, 07:55 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cranston RI
Posts: 902
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I wish I knew how to weld! One thing Dad didn't teach me!
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99 Porsche Boxster
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