Replacing a hub carrier
 

I got a bad right rear wheel bearing and I'm too broke to afford the sir tool. So I'm going to just buy a used hub carrier from quality porsche parts (hopefully as a good bandaid) are there any tips to getting the hub off the CVS axle without removing too much, and also the parking brake cable.

A couple tips -

Remember to loosen the axle nut before jacking up the car. I use a 1-1/4" socket, 3/4" drive.

I loosened the inner mounting bolt for the lower control arm so it would drop out of the way and make it easier to slide the carrier off the strut and half shaft.

Thanks, and tips about the parking brake. That's the only thing I've been trying to figure out.

For the parking brake, loosen the adjustment bolt in the interior, under your center console cubby. When the rotor is off, you'll see where the cable terminates on the hub and can disconnect it at that point. You pull the cable out of the hub and you're all set.

Axel nut
 

I broke a 3 foot cheater bar breaking one of mine loose, 32MM I believe. On the next one I used a Impact driver rated at 110 ft lbs and it spun the factory one right off....getting over 300 ft lbs for reinstall took a new breaker bar and some math....and me standing on the bar

I welded a bracket to straddle the hub and used a CV puller to remove / replace the bearing with hub on car still.

That is a great suggestion that would help the OP who is too broke to buy the SIR Tool(aren't we all too broke for SIR tools?)
Timco - a photo of your welded up CV joint puller may help future diyers.
Here is a link to a Thread on the B90 Sir Tools puller with photos.More in google
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-racing-forum/61214-boxster-s-front-wheel-bearing-replacement.html
Try the OTC hub Grappler,Hub Shark or generic alternative ?
rent from Autozone?Probably free if you buy some of the parts from them.

Harbor freight
 

I used a Harbor Freight to pull mine on the car, used a large bearing separator to pull the bub....never had to break down the hub carrier or have a realignment.

I went this route because it is the fastest and cheapest way. Did look at harbor freight and other bearing pullers but the hub part kept getting me. I only get 5 hours to do this as I'm doing it on a work day. I also committed to buying a used hub carrier, caliper bolts, and axle nut to do the job so I have to follow through.

Replacing the hub carrier
 

If you are replacing the hub carrier there is no need to try and pull the old one in place. Break down the carrier and remove, take it to a machine shop or if you have a hydraulic press install a new wheel bearing and hub....reassemble and have it aligned. Usually pulling the hub will pull the race off the wheel bearing, and while you have it out and apart you might well nip this in the bud for later.

Dwight

My wheel bearing replacement job is on hold until I figure out how to remove the hub. I bought the large bearing separator from Harbor Freight. But the hub still will not budged.

The axle nut is easy. Using the handle of my floor jack makes removing the nut a short order.

A little squirt of Kroil every day and gentle tapping with a brass punch to try to loosen up any corrosion.Eventually the puller will work. Much better than using extreme force.

Had this same problem
 

I had to order longer bolts than the using the lug bolts, I got them at MR. Metric

This is what you will need

http://www.mrmetric.com/M41086

A word of caution, once you have three bolts making contact with the bearing seperator , go only a turn at a time or less in a crosswise patters or you will bend the bolt...I know. Once you do this the hub came off pretty easy....and yes the bearing came apart when I did this. When you pull the actual bearing it iwll take a pilot a little smaller than you think....keep the puller greased very well with a high quality lubricant (Do not even think of using WD40 it is not a lubricant) and that bearing will come right out.

Totally crude. Welded it in 15 minutes. Kept adding steel until it wouldn't give. I have lots of scrap around but it's mild steel. Then buy a hardened all thread and nuts / washers and a HF CV puller kit. The legs just need to be tall enough for the bearing to fit out.

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszkbmfllk.jpg

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...psodonauvy.jpg

Perfect-ly crude & ugly .But wonderfully cheap & effective. Just what we need.Thank you for posting the photo

I wish I knew how to weld! One thing Dad didn't teach me!

MIG is easy = lots on you Tube to teach you.Plenty of scrap steel to practice with on Craig's List !
Get a 220/240v Mig+inert gas welder from Harbor Freight or a good used one on C.L.
Welding Web will help you:
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?236821-Chicago-Electric-170-Amp-MIG-Flux-Wire-Welder-Mods-and-Tests
or look at Eastwood for ideas.
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders-175-amp-mig-welder-w-spool-gun.html

Well I got my hub carrier in the mail and the brake cable is still attached, I found a diagram online that says to remove a clip and the cable should come out, but I can't remove the clip; well at least without removing the brake shoes

Placing an order for it right now. I was wondering why the hub has not budge but I'm out of thread.

I'm stuck and in dire need of help, the lower control arm ball joint won't come out and I ran out of tools to use, pickle fork won't work and the pitman arm tool doesn't fit in between the axle and ballet joint