986 to 987 upgrade, need advice

[Pastor T]

So I’m thinking of upgrading my 986 to a 987. I’m approaching retirement and want to get something with 60-70k miles around the $15-17,000 range. I’ve seen several good ones but have not begun to do any real research yet. I’m struggling with the idea of having to do the same kind of work on a 987 that I have had to do on my 986. Perhaps I just need to keep my 986. What do you think?
I did a complete financial analysis on my personal history of my car excluding gas, cleaning, and insurance. It is scary to say the least. If I show it to my wife I’m DEAD! Anyway, can anyone give me some feedback on this? Is this normal, above or below what you would expect.
Here is a short history (4 years) of my 986 ownership. It may prove interesting and helpful if you are considering a 986 in your future. I have a MY2000 986 base, Ocean Blue Metallic with grey interior. It had 86000 miles when I purchased it. I have owned it for 4 years and I have put on an additional 47,000. It sits at 133000 right now. It is a mix of around town and highway. Some all out on winding canyon roads. It is my daily driver rain or shine and I usually take it out about 1-2 weekends a month to carve canyons in the mountains near Sacramento where I live. I would consider myself a very spirited driver. That’s why I bought a Boxster. I bought it in 2012 off Craig’s list for 10,500 from the 2nd owner. A fair deal at the time. The records show an engine replacement in 2004 by the original dealer at 46,000 miles with the 1st owner. I figured the IMS blew out, but not certain. I considered the engine replacement a good deal when I purchased it as the IMS issue had probably been dealt with. When I bought it, it seemed like near perfect shape. Very clean, no leaks, and ding free. The driver’s seat was showing wear, but the interior was otherwise near perfect. I flew to Southern California, drove the car, had a PPI done, it checked out and I drove it home. It had slotted and drilled rotors but original brakes. Unbelievably I have not had to change brake pads in 47k miles and they are still good. It needed an alignment and front tires which I replaced immediately. It came with a nice OEM car cover, plastic wind screen, but no headrest windscreens. I received some maintenance documentation but not complete. Since I purchased the car I have completed all regularly scheduled maintenance, including belts and filters. I change the oil (Mobil 1 synthetic 5w40) and filter every 5000 miles. Early on I was very intimidated by working on a Porsche and had to go to the shop. Now I am much more confident and seem to be able to diagnose and fix almost anything. Furthermore, I now have a part time job working at a NAPA parts store so I can get parts very cheap.
So here’s my story:
1st year of ownership; 86000-98000 miles (12K miles)
• I-phone cable; rear speakers, magnetic oil drain plug, front tires, alignment, RF wheel bearing, spark plugs, Battery,
• Total cost Parts; $1335.00; Labor; $673.00
2nd year of ownership; 98000-111000 (11K miles)
• Rear trunk shocks, license plate mounting bracket, rear tires and alignment, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, (did the work myself)
• air/oil separator, alternator, complete clutch failure, (replaced clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch fork, dual mass flywheel, IMS bearing) Outside shop did all work
• Total cost Parts; $4502.48; Labor; $1473.14
3rd year of ownership; 111000-121000 (10K miles)
• Convertible top replacement; parking brake switch, purge valve, fender liner, several intermittent problems with temp gauge, erratic idle, parking brake switch
• Total cost Parts; $1176.38; Labor; $1430.84
4th year of ownership; 121000-132000 (11K miles)
• O2 sensor, both door latches, front and rear tires and alignment, used seats. Outside shop did the work, I installed the seats.
• Total cost Parts; $3121.83; Labor; $969.35
5th year of ownership; 132000-133000 (1K miles)
• Under body panels replaced, dip stick tube; I did the work.
• Total cost Parts; $596.52; Labor; $00.00

[mfm22]

Seems like you have a very well cared for Boxster - you know every inch of it and that is comforting in itself
I would think twice about changing over, unless something bothers you about the current 986?

I just got an '02 and hoping to have as much good times with it as you have had with yours

[Pastor T]

Thanks, I do feel like I know every inch, top to bottom. And I know that's worth a lot. It seems like I can detect any new sound immediately and I can check it out.

[Porsche9]

Unless you can swing a 2009 or newer, were the upgrade under the skin are major, I'd stick with what you have and know every inch of.

[husker boxster]

My first Porsche was a 4 yr old 2001 Boxster S. It had 15K mi and CPO. It had all the typical 986 foibles that needed fixing. I'm kind of surprised I bought another Porsche with all the things that went wrong, but I traded it in on a new 08 Boxster S LE. It currently has 53K mi and the only 2 failures were the water pump and a thermostat switch.

I bought an 07 Cayman S with 17K mi to use as my bad weather and DE car. I put 18K trouble free miles on it before I sold it.

I replaced my 07 CS with my 08 Cayman S Sport. It had 7400 mi when I bought it almost 4 yrs ago. It is my bad weather and DE car. She has 48K mi on her now and the only failure has been the water pump. I've done DEs at Laguna Seca, Kansas Speedway (twice), COTA (twice), and Indy.

I've done all the normal maintenance on all 3 cars. The 3 987Ss I've owned have been the most reliable cars I've owned - I'm 57 and used to buy cars every 4 yrs so I've owned quite a few. I've owned my LE for almost 9 yrs and the CSS is approaching 4. I don't plan on getting rid of either. They've cured my 4 yr itch. I would highly recommend getting a 987.1 They are very reliable cars.

[Giller]

Agree with Porsche9 - hold out till you can swing the 987.2 (2009+) PDK is a fantastic transmission, no IMS at all to even think about worrying about and the 2.9L in the base is pretty darn zippy. I'm quite happy I made the switch, but I'm also not mechanically inclined to maintain an older 986.

And I also wouldn't call it an 'upgrade' - as the Boxster is amazing no matter what year - but more of simply getting a newer version.

[Smallblock454]

Hello,

so you've put around 15,3K USD in 5 years and 47k miles for repairs, maintenance and updates in your car. That means around 3K USD per year and 0,33 USD per mile.

I don't think that is too expensive for a sports car. Pretty shure another 987 in the 15-17K USD range will cost you the same if you don't do the workshop stuff yourself.

987.1 cars have similar problems than 986 cars. But you can't change an IMS at this cars without disassembling the engine.

987.2 cars have a complete new technical and engine design. But i think they are not in your price range.

You have invested a lot in your 986. I would stay with the car, because i think you won't get the costs for the repairs when you sell it. And you know what has been done to the car.

If i would decide to buy a new Boxster i would buy a 987.2 or a 981 from a technical aspect.

Maybe it's a good idea to drive these cars in person, so get an impression of the differences.

Regards, Markus

[rexcramer]

IMHO, I wouldn't try to trade up until you can get on the other side of the IMS issue. Or you find that 'one owner, low miles' deal of a lifetime, that you just can't walk away from. Even with 133K on the clock, it sounds like you have a car that is well sorted out and a known commodity. Different car is still going to have the same maintenance $$$ plus the unknowns.

Of course, if you just have the itch for a new ride, try and buy one the same color and maybe your wife won't notice?

[husker boxster]

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

987.1 cars have similar problems than 986 cars.

Not really. My 01S had a bad wheel bearing, bad window regulator, bad LCA bushing, a power steering pump failure, and some other things I've forgotten. All the usual problems 986s have. The list is long. And all this in 2.5 yrs of ownership and 30K mi.

The only issues I've had in 112K mi and 9 yrs of 987S ownership is 2 water pumps and a switch. I've also replaced 2 AOSs. Significantly less issues to deal with. Are they perfect? No, but they don't have all the niggling issues of a 986.

Originally Posted by Giller

no IMS at all to even think about worrying about

True, but the bigger IMS of the 987 is basically a non-issue. It wasn't included in the IMS lawsuit because it didn't fail at a high enough rate (est at 1%). The last time someone on Planet-9 had a DOCUMENTED IMS failure has been multiple yrs ago.

Pastor T will have to wait many yrs for a 987.2 to fall into his price range.

[Boxtaboy]

FWIW, of my 15 yrs of 986 ownership (72k miles), I've only had to replace a water pump, rear motor mount, and a coolant tank (besides normal oil changes & brake pads). On original IMS and clutch too. Pretty reliable car.

[dghii]

Originally Posted by Boxtaboy

FWIW, of my 15 yrs of 986 ownership (72k miles), I've only had to replace a water pump, rear motor mount, and a coolant tank (besides normal oil changes & brake pads). On original IMS and clutch too. Pretty reliable car.

'Bout the same here. Very routine maintenance items in my 8+ years. 132k miles, no IMS or clutch. Heck, I've never even had a visit to a mechanic, and I'm not that great at it! All maintenance done as scheduled and oil/filter every 6-8 months.

Every time I consider another Boxster (I've bought/sold 3 others during my ownership of this one) I'm reluctant to keep a new (to me) car as I seem to have a very good one here.

[aczyzewski]

Sounds to me like the 986 has brought you great joy. Why mess with that? Stop tracking the $ and go for all the fun you can.

[jrebot2]

Ive really liked my 986 going with a 987.1 next. Selling my 986 with 37k orig miles and hardtop.