Reviews of this product?

[Nano305]

It was too good to be true! Thanks guys!

[liquidimports84]

Need new struts. 78k miles 2001 boxster. Anyone end up getting them? Would like to know if they are decent. Thanks

[jakeru]

With struts/shocks, you get what you pay for. If you intend to keep the car, especially since it's a Boxster (good handling should be important to you, if you own a mid-engined Porsche!) spend more on this item, don't cheap out.

If you sell the car, keep used shocks, or if you are going "in there" for some other reason before you can flip the car, sure - cheap out! If your buyer doesn't pick up somehow looking at recipts, based on what you say, or on a pre-purchase inspection, knowing the cheap parts used, the test drive will initially seem ok.

As another cheap option, EPS sells inexpensive strut inserts which can be retrofitted into the OE strut bodies.
https://www.europeanpartssolution.com/shock-absorber/

I wouldn't expect the cheaper options to feel very "new like" after 20k or so miles. Get a quality shock, and you'll get 100k+ miles of good service out them.

Another viable option is buying used, low-mile OE shocks. If I were buying a used car, I'd actually give preference to used quality shocks, over a new, cheap aftermarket shock.

My 2 cents... (maybe based on some very bad experiences in other cars getting very short service life out of cheap Monroes, aftermarket Tokico's, etc).

OE Boxster shocks are really some of the better quality shocks out there! Bilsteins are some of the best in the business. The comment someone made they are "overpriced" is absolutely uninfomed.

Remember, again... with shocks, you get what you pay for.

[Neal]

This is coming from a person who has 0 idea about cars so bear with me.

If I buy a Porsche boxster and simply want to lower it a bit (for looks) & don't intend to take it to tracks and simply do street driving without worrying about speed bumps and pot holes what do I need to buy EXACTLY?

1) I don't want to lower it to the point where I hit my bottom with speed bumps etc ... just want to lower it as much as possible without hitting the bottom somewhere.
2) I want a smooth ride, i don't want my body jumping every time I ride over a small bump.
3) Simple street/highway driving + not having to worry about speed bumps & pot holes what is the max I can lower the boxster?
4) I intend to keep my boxster for a long time as a daily driver/everyday car

I read some definitions of the terms used here.
->Coilovers - help lower the car
->Shocks/Spring/Suspension - what come stock with the car & help absorb the shock from pot holes/bumps on the road
->FSD - no idea still
->Struts - no idea still
->Spacers - read definition but don't fully understand it

Why are H&R spring set $315 while their h&r coilover set is $1790.
What's the difference if the springs can also lower the vehicle ... why buy more expensive lowering coilover's?

Basically I want my boxster to look like this:
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

How much is this lowered by approx?
What 'wheels' does it have?
What 'tires' does it have?

Again guys, I am new to cars. Sorry.

Thanks!

[bwdz]

Those and other cheap Chinese made shocks are barely adequate for your minivan and have no business on a sports car. If you ever have a chance to look at the cheap tubing and pogo stick valving you will know why they have such a high failure rate. I put the Stagg on the back of an e36 once and they lasted only a few months and had terrible rebound (basically one stiff bounce with wheel hop that the car barely had with the aged stock units the Staggs replaced)

[bwdz]

Neal, to answer your questions: coilovers are struts and shocks in one unit where the coil spring is over the strut, they have adjustable threaded collars to move the spring to adjust the height of the car to your preferred setting. Springs are just springs, they go on your struts that you already have and lowering springs have a shorter installed height and often a higher rate of compression. The inside of a shock or strut is gas charged or oil, there is a piston inside a tube and valves that control how fast and smooth the piston can move up and down the tube absorbing the bumps in the road and making sure your wheel doesn't jump and lose contact with the road. Go to the website howitworks and look up how shocks work for an excellent graphic describing this process.
The price difference in struts stems from quality of materials to make the tubes and pistons and the complexity and sophistication of the valves inside to get the best rate of rebound and movement to soak up the bumps. Not always but the more you pay the more sophisticated they are and cheapies are made from cheap steel tubing instead of aluminum with just one simple gas valve inside just like they were back in the 60s when cars rode like crap.