Chain Tensioner Replacement Clarification

[cornontherob]

Originally Posted by Gilles

JFP,

My Durametric instructions state to first turn the flashers On, then to turn On the ignition switch...

But you are metioning that you can connect the cable to take the readings without turning the engine Off.

Most likely I don't know how to use it properly, let alone correctly understanding the readings... LOL

I haven't heard this one yet, is there a reason for the flashers?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

JFP,

My Durametric instructions state to first turn the flashers On, then to turn On the ignition switch...

But you are metioning that you can connect the cable to take the readings without turning the engine Off.

Most likely I don't know how to use it properly, let alone correctly understanding the readings... LOL

On some year cars, the DME will "go to sleep" if the engine is not running, and the data link will be lost. When testing without the car running, leaving the flashers on will prevent the DME for doing this. But if the car is running, you don't need the flashers.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

On some year cars, the DME will "go to sleep" if the engine is not running, and the data link will be lost. When testing without the car running, leaving the flashers on will prevent the DME for doing this. But if the car is running, you don't need the flashers.

Thanks JFP...!
I will try on Friday once I get back home, right now I am enjoying fresh clams and a nice brew at Philadelphia's airport.
Thanks again!

[cornontherob]

Drove the car around for an hour, then let it idle, and took a reading, still -9 and -12. Then I had someone else drive and took the reading from the passenger seat, same thing.

[cornontherob]

Re-opening with new info

Just emailed flat six innovations on this topic, and they seemed to think that the engine was toast because of the .5 second rattle when it starts up. They quoted me $18,000 for a new one. I emailed to them that the car was not necessarily making the noise when it's completely cold or hot, but that it does when it's in between, like around 110 degrees. This is in around 40 degree weather.

Flat six seemed to think that I was on the brink of a catastrophic failure. My theory is that when the previous owner changed the IMS bearing, he messed up timing, because camshaft deviations are holding steady.

Does anyone have the specs for the tensioner tension? Also, if it turns out that I take this apart to replace some chain ramps, and the main timing chain from the ims and the sprockets are worn, do es the engine case need to be split?

[Need_for_speed]

Just emailed flat six innovations on this topic, and they seemed to think that the engine was toast because of the .5 second rattle when it starts up. They quoted me $18,000 for a new one.

Wow. Really?! Gosh, I guess I'll be needing a new engine as well!

My 2.7L is getting a new IMS/Clutch/RMS shortly and my Indie says he here's a slight rattle on startup for a few seconds. He attributes it to the chain tensioners/ramps, or, more likely, worn out plastic camshaft brakes (Pelican Parts -- $19.95 for the set).

[Nmbrsix]

At 70k miles, my '02 986S has a little rattle on startup after a couple of seconds...perhaps 1sec worth. Best independent Porsche shop in the region did the IMS/RMS and it's unchanged thereafter. They didn't seem concerned about it.

[Steve Tinker]

Replacing the 3 x hydraulic chain tensioners will definitely help quieten the initial cold start chain rattle (it did on mine), but will not alter the deviation values.

[winterbuoy]

I normally just come here to read and learn from you all but I have to add this, my car is a 2000 S with 33,000 miles. The LN IMSB was done at about 30,000 miles by the former owner and it has the same noise on start up. Just about 1/2 to 1 second then it is quiet. Are we now to assume that this is a problem and should I be worried? Maybe we should do a small survey on just how common this is.

[cornontherob]

So what I've gathered is that it's the ramps in between the camshafts, however I could be wrong and it's actually the long ramps that are tensioned by the hydraulic tensioners. I don't know if starting like this will damage anything in the long run. I also still am not quite sure how to set the tension on the hydraulic tensioners, or where to find the tool to do it.

[cornontherob]

Talked to the Porsche dealer technicians today while I had the car in to have a new key made. They told me that to replace the ramps in between the camshafts, it would cost me a total of around $6,500. This includes a replacement of the mechanism between the shafts that actually changes the timing, as well as actually removing the engine to get to it all. So, not a pretty repair bill if it goes in.

On the bright side, the tech said that he had never seen a case like this fail, contrary to the folks over at flat six innovations. I told him about this and he told me that that was crazy. It's apparently perfectly normal for the car to have some startup noise as long as it doesn't persist, but that to keep camshaft deviation values in check, and to switch to a heavier oil. I'm running 0w-40, but he said to move up a step in weight.

[Timco]

Replace the 3 hydraulic tensioners and drive it.

My startup rattle was the WP scraping on the engine block, and the alternator bearing. Both made start up noise until warmed up in a few seconds.

I guess mine wasn't seconds from exploding....glad I didn't get an over the phone diagnosis. Use your head. Check the obvious. Start it without the belt. Same noise?

[cornontherob]

The tech had looked it over and said not to worry, but he didn't take anything apart. I'll have to check it when it's warmed up completely. I'm still dailying the car, I just felt like a little piece of mind will help. It seems unclear on how or if you need to set the tension on these hydraulic tensioners.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by cornontherob

The tech had looked it over and said not to worry, but he didn't take anything apart. I'll have to check it when it's warmed up completely. I'm still dailying the car, I just felt like a little piece of mind will help. It seems unclear on how or if you need to set the tension on these hydraulic tensioners.

It's a hydraulic tensioner. That's it. The oil pressure makes the tension. Nothing to set.

The tech didn't take anything apart, but at least looked it over. That seems better than over the phone diagnosis and a flat "it's dead, Jim" reply.

[MaddMatt]

Originally Posted by cornontherob

I'm definitely going to lock the engine down for my own sanity. Pelican Parts lists 3 tensioners that are available. Do I use these? Are they stock? And does an upgrade version exist as well?

Greetings.

I am in a position that I believe I need to change the tensioners. It appears to me that this plunger part is the culprit and I can just change these without removing or replacing the entire unit. Correct?

On a scale of 1-10, with 1 being an oil change and 10 being engine removal, where does this job fall? Roughly how many hours?

Thanks.

[Gilles]

Matt, just keep in mind that before you remove the tensioners you will need to lock the crank and the cams as well..

[Stl-986]

What plunger part are you meaning? The tensioners are 1 piece, you remove & replace with a whole new unit, you dont take it apart.

I would question why you think you need tensioners replaced. Remember, there are 3 of them. Each are specific to their location in the engine and cant be swapped around.

Suggest starting a new thread with the relevant information also, you may not need to replace these.

[jaykay]

IIRC, I compressed the plungers and released them submerged in oil when I changed mine.....It is a very long ago and I neglected to make notes.

This essentially prefills the tensioner for the first start up.