Buyer question

[tada]

Originally Posted by bobbeck

If I had a budget of $5000 I'd be looking at an Mazda MX5, first gen SLK or maybe even an SL with some miles and questionable history before diving into a non running Boxster. There's a lot of $8000 Boxsters out there, good running with some history. Can you spend a little more?

That's the next decision. If all of the Boxsters in my price range don't pan out, I will have to wait, save some more, and then resume the hunt. But a lot of the good runners I am finding have prices that are way too much to spend. An example is a 97 Base with 110000 miles for $10000.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by tada

... If all of the Boxsters in my price range don't pan out, I will have to wait, save some more, and then resume the hunt. But a lot of the good runners I am finding have prices that are way too much to spend. An example is a 97 Base with 110000 miles for $10000.

I have bought plenty of Boxsters for around $5k or less. I have not regretted one, but I consider it fun to take on the challenge of fixing them and learning about them.

First Boxster (Black '99) had a few cosmetic issues, but has been a great running car. Over 1-1/2 years, it didn't need anything other than normal maintenance. Just sold it for over $5k with 141k miles and running strong. Got well over my money's worth of fun driving it.

Second Boxster ('01) was water damaged salvage and had a non-repairable engine. On the road and running great for a 'net' of about $4K after buying a parts car for the engine and selling a few key parts.

Third Boxster (Silver '99) salvage from a front end collision. After fees and repairs, I'm in for about $5k again and I absolutely love the car.

It goes on, but you may get the idea. You CAN get a good Boxster for about $5k. It just involves risk assessment/mitigation, lots of DIY, some parts from Woody, and help and advice of the Forum members.

Perhaps I am riding on the ragged edge of Boxster ownership. I do not fear a 'Salvage' or 'Rebuilt' title if I clearly understand why it has that label. Many cars with unbranded titles may have worse damage hidden. I do my own PPI mostly to assess what my total loss will be if I have to scrap the car. If it's a gain at my price, it's a go.

...inexpensive car to tinker with. Not a daily driver, but one I could have fun with. I am very mechanical and have worked on several lines of cars, just never a Porsche.

I would have made an offer on the first car you posted. An offer low enough that I would expect it to be turned down. Heck, buy the worst one you can find for the lowest you can get it. Tear it apart. Find out what makes it tick ...and then buy one that isn't ticking quite so loudly.

Good luck, and have fun with it.

[tada]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I would have made an offer on the first car you posted. An offer low enough that I would expect it to be turned down. Heck, buy the worst one you can find for the lowest you can get it. Tear it apart. Find out what makes it tick ...and then buy one that isn't ticking quite so loudly.

I'm off tomorrow, so I am going to go down and take a look at it. I got access to an iCarsoft POR II (not debating it vs. Durametric, it was available to use for free) and I'm going to check to see what codes it is giving. I'll be looking for the obvious blown head, will watch the tach to maybe test for CPS while cranking it (if it doesn't throw a code), listen for the fuel pump and relay, and just look it over in general. If it looks good, I may take the risk. You saw that I am prepared to work on myself and learn the car. Any other apparent things you all can think to look for in a non runner? Thanks!

[78F350]

Originally Posted by tada

... Any other apparent things you all can think to look for in a non runner? Thanks!

Again, I have TMI:

Search for how to jump the fuel relay. *Consider that suddenly making the car run, may be bad for negotiations.

Aside from why it doesn't run:

Have a way to jack the car up.

It is easy to pull the oil filter and get a look at the oil and filter. It takes a 76mm 14 flute filter wrench. Have a pan or papers to catch the drips, but no oil should run out as long as it's fairly level. Bring a magnet. A few aluminum sparkles and very tiny bits of plastic or sealant may be okay.

Put the top in the service position. Pull the storage compartment, and engine cover. Leaks? Cracked plastic? Does anything not look 'factory'? Has the owner messed with anything trying to fix it?

Don't laser focus on just the engine.

Look over the undercarriage. Are the plastic belly pans intact. Leaks? Hoses straight and secured? Jacking points damaged? Brakes, brake hoses? Heavy tire wear on the inside? Rubber boots, bushings, links...

Do all the proper dash lights come on with the key turned? Windows function properly? HVAC controls work/LCDs good? Headlights - good clear surface, no cracks in corner pieces, burned inner lens?

Frunk: All the plastic covers intact? GOOD spare tire with tools and jack?

Trunk: Clean, no evidence of leaks? Draw some coolant out. Clear? Yellow/green/pink? Non-Porsche coolant can be okay. Mixing coolant types is not okay.

Every little part that you need will cost 3x more than it would for a Ford/Honda....

I saw the ad. Looks clean and cared for in the pics anyway. 4-stalk with OBC. I'd be strong at $3k for a buy as a roller and inch my way up from there if everything else looks good.

[tada]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Again, I have TMI:

Search for how to jump the fuel relay. *Consider that suddenly making the car run, may be bad for negotiations.

Aside from why it doesn't run:

Have a way to jack the car up.

It is easy to pull the oil filter and get a look at the oil and filter. It takes a 76mm 14 flute filter wrench. Have a pan or papers to catch the drips, but no oil should run out as long as it's fairly level. Bring a magnet. A few aluminum sparkles and very tiny bits of plastic or sealant may be okay.

Put the top in the service position. Pull the storage compartment, and engine cover. Leaks? Cracked plastic? Does anything not look 'factory'? Has the owner messed with anything trying to fix it?

Don't laser focus on just the engine.

Look over the undercarriage. Are the plastic belly pans intact. Leaks? Hoses straight and secured? Jacking points damaged? Brakes, brake hoses? Heavy tire wear on the inside? Rubber boots, bushings, links...

Do all the proper dash lights come on with the key turned? Windows function properly? HVAC controls work/LCDs good? Headlights - good clear surface, no cracks in corner pieces, burned inner lens?

Frunk: All the plastic covers intact? GOOD spare tire with tools and jack?

Trunk: Clean, no evidence of leaks? Draw some coolant out. Clear? Yellow/green/pink? Non-Porsche coolant can be okay. Mixing coolant types is not okay.

Every little part that you need will cost 3x more than it would for a Ford/Honda....

I saw the ad. Looks clean and cared for in the pics anyway. 4-stalk with OBC. I'd be strong at $3k for a buy as a roller and inch my way up from there if everything else looks good.

Thank you so much for the advice. No, I don't want to make it run in front of the owner, that would drive the price higher. I just want to get a general idea of the condition. I'll take your list with me and work through it.