1st Boxster 7th Porsche, we now have 4 in the family

[Twomato]

I got mine from ECS.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Arm_Rest/ES1491070/

[itsnotanova]

Great thread! Thanks for the compliments earlier in the thread. Can we see more pics of your $5 bearing puller?

[Perfectlap]

Holy cow....

[jcslocum]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

Great thread! Thanks for the compliments earlier in the thread. Can we see more pics of your $5 bearing puller?

Woody, you get the thanks! You have supplied many needed parts at a great price and fast shipping. Without your support, this would be a much more expensive project and take much longer.

So, now to my cheep Yankee puller. This is not an indictment of anyone else or their products. This is more an indictment of me being cheep and somewhat clever.

For most of us this is a one time use tool. I may need to do another IMS bearing because I'm a serial Porsche owner and project addicted. I have pulled a lot of bearings in the past and didn't see the need to invest a few hundies in a single use tool that to me isn't all that unique. I searched for folks that had made their own puller and cam holders, and found nothing on the interwebs, so I was on my own.

I have lots of junk tucked away in my 2 car garage/shop. I'm always puttering on cars and have a few projects going all the time. I typically over buy small things because I don't want to run out to pick little stuff up when doing a job, and this is where this exhaust pipe part came in. Allie was messing with the 944 exhaust system a few years ago and while out I grabbed a few adaptors that were $2.79 each. She didn't need some so it got thrown into a box of "muffler" stuff for use later or maybe never, but I don't throw good stuff away. Here's Allie after she got done welding up here "test" pipe to replace the cat.



Enough bragging, back to the puller.

The pipe is strong enough for the job to pull the double row with the wire keeper that it has. The OEM bearing stud is 8mm ( #1 in the picture below ) with what we would call a fine thread or a pitch of 1.0, so the standard coupling nut( #2 below ) must be threaded to 8mm 1.0 from the standard 0f 8mm 1.25 pitch. I didn't re-drill it, I just grabbed a 8x1.0 tap and cut the new threads on 1 side or 1/2 deep on the coupling nut #2. The threaded Rod ( #3 in the pic ) is 8mm 1.25 thread pitch so only 1/2 of 1 of the nuts needs to be rethreaded. The pipe is just an off the shelf exhaust pipe that is sold in every auto parts store. The only dimension that matter is the ID (inside diameter) of the end that goes on the end of the IMS pocket. The OD (outside diameter) of the bearing is approx 1-7/8" OD so you need a bit if clearance for the bearing to come into. The pipe I used is a Nickson 548516

Autozone info:
Nickson 2.00" I.D. x 1.75" O.D. Reducer
Part No. 548516 $3.99

I don't pay full price at the local parts store, I paid $2.99

You MUST use a coupling nut as the part that you turn and introduce the load. The standard nut will end up stripping the threaded rod. The normal threaded rod isn't made from the strongest material like a normal bolt. So I used a second coupling nut to wrench on and lube it up with some slippery grease. #5 is just a scrap piece of steel with a hole in it for the threaded rod to some thru and cover the end. I also used some washers becasuse the hole was like 1" so I needed to shrink this down to 8mm. You can grab a piece of plate 1/4" from your local dirt floor weld shop for free, take it home and drill an 8mm hole in it and you are good to go!



The puller during first fit up. The pipe shown has the wrong ID so I changed it to the 2" ID part. the "normal" height nut will not work.



I hope this helps.

[pkp4911]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

Woody, you get the thanks! You have supplied many needed parts at a great price and fast shipping. Without your support, this would be a much more expensive project and take much longer.

So, now to my cheep Yankee puller. This is not an indictment of anyone else or their products. This is more an indictment of me being cheep and somewhat clever.

For most of us this is a one time use tool. I may need to do another IMS bearing because I'm a serial Porsche owner and project addicted. I have pulled a lot of bearings in the past and didn't see the need to invest a few hundies in a single use tool that to me isn't all that unique. I searched for folks that had made their own puller and cam holders, and found nothing on the interwebs, so I was on my own.

I have lots of junk tucked away in my 2 car garage/shop. I'm always puttering on cars and have a few projects going all the time. I typically over buy small things because I don't want to run out to pick little stuff up when doing a job, and this is where this exhaust pipe part came in. Allie was messing with the 944 exhaust system a few years ago and while out I grabbed a few adaptors that were $2.79 each. She didn't need some so it got thrown into a box of "muffler" stuff for use later or maybe never, but I don't throw good stuff away. Here's Allie after she got done welding up here "test" pipe to replace the cat.



Enough bragging, back to the puller.

The pipe is strong enough for the job to pull the double row with the wire keeper that it has. The OEM bearing stud is 8mm ( #1 in the picture below ) with what we would call a fine thread or a pitch of 1.0, so the standard coupling nut( #2 below ) must be threaded to 8mm 1.0 from the standard 0f 8mm 1.25 pitch. I didn't re-drill it, I just grabbed a 8x1.0 tap and cut the new threads on 1 side or 1/2 deep on the coupling nut #2. The threaded Rod ( #3 in the pic ) is 8mm 1.25 thread pitch so only 1/2 of 1 of the nuts needs to be rethreaded. The pipe is just an off the shelf exhaust pipe that is sold in every auto parts store. The only dimension that matter is the ID (inside diameter) of the end that goes on the end of the IMS pocket. The OD (outside diameter) of the bearing is approx 1-7/8" OD so you need a bit if clearance for the bearing to come into. The pipe I used is a Nickson 548516

Autozone info:
Nickson 2.00" I.D. x 1.75" O.D. Reducer
Part No. 548516 $3.99

I don't pay full price at the local parts store, I paid $2.99

You MUST use a coupling nut as the part that you turn and introduce the load. The standard nut will end up stripping the threaded rod. The normal threaded rod isn't made from the strongest material like a normal bolt. So I used a second coupling nut to wrench on and lube it up with some slippery grease. #5 is just a scrap piece of steel with a hole in it for the threaded rod to some thru and cover the end. I also used some washers becasuse the hole was like 1" so I needed to shrink this down to 8mm. You can grab a piece of plate 1/4" from your local dirt floor weld shop for free, take it home and drill an 8mm hole in it and you are good to go!



The puller during first fit up. The pipe shown has the wrong ID so I changed it to the 2" ID part. the "normal" height nut will not work.



I hope this helps.

You've inspired so many of us fellow boxster owners with your innovative and relatively inexpensive solutions...and as a dad of two kids who grew up around me working in the garage, my son especially had the fixiturself bug. (I only wish I'd have thought of the swear jar ) So, thank you!
As a long time air cooled guy I acquired an 03 986S to dip the proverbial toe in the water. I've loved reading your posts and plan to incorporate or follow your lead on many of the things you've done. This summer I decided to track the car. (been involved with PCA Club racing and DE for 25 years with early 911 which I'm taking back to street. ) Through the process with the box, I added deep sump, baffle mod, spin on oil filter and the car had already had the dual ceramic LN upgraded IMS. Hot day, but careful with rev's and heat. Spun bearing. Much knashing of teeth and after 2 months of not finding a decent 3.2, I found a 70K 03 3.6 motor. Had the LN I'M done already. Dirty but leak free and just enough grime in the intake stacks to lead me to believe a normal motor. PO purchased entire 03 as a total front end collision. Also owns 99 996 and thought he would put this motor in until realized the challenges of cross pollination between the vastly different DME and CAN BUS. <6% (cold) leakdown. Long story short, I'm now preparing to do a swap.
While I have many questions, what prompted me today was reading about your IMS puller. How do you tap only part of your thread? (Impossible circum.) We doing only 1/2 the length? (Re 8mmx1.0 vs 8mmx1.5). Other questions: Sonax tire cleaner? What happens to sensors when you delete the second set of cats? Do you weld bungs on the pipe itself? I'll be doing new clutch but waiting to see condition of flywheel. More but I'll keep them short and specific to your topics.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[jcslocum]

Originally Posted by pkp4911

While I have many questions, what prompted me today was reading about your IMS puller. How do you tap only part of your thread? (Impossible circum.) We doing only 1/2 the length? (Re 8mmx1.0 vs 8mmx1.5). Other questions: Sonax tire cleaner? What happens to sensors when you delete the second set of cats? Do you weld bungs on the pipe itself? I'll be doing new clutch but waiting to see condition of flywheel. More but I'll keep them short and specific to your topics.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I doubt that I'm all that inspirational but I thank you for saying so!!

The long coupling nut has the 1.5 (call it a coarse thread) thread all the way thru, so I just took a 1.0 ( fine thread) tap and started it on the other end and ran the new thread in. I didn't drill it or anything. Just ran it in 50% of the way to make sure it had enough thread engagement for the end of the bearing stud. If that had not worked, I would have welded 2, 1.0 nuts onto the end of the coupling nut.

Yup Sonax cleaner. That stuff is the bomb for wheels and engines and transmissions. If I were to go all OCD on it (or CDO depending on how bad you have it) I would h ave pulled out the small steam cleaner to get at the small crannies cleaned out.

There are no sensors for the 2nd set of cats. The new pipes have holes for sensors but they are not used.

Ask away. We have air cooled in the house too!

[pkp4911]

Originally Posted by jcslocum

I doubt that I'm all that inspirational but I thank you for saying so!!

The long coupling nut has the 1.5 (call it a coarse thread) thread all the way thru, so I just took a 1.0 ( fine thread) tap and started it on the other end and ran the new thread in. I didn't drill it or anything. Just ran it in 50% of the way to make sure it had enough thread engagement for the end of the bearing stud. If that had not worked, I would have welded 2, 1.0 nuts onto the end of the coupling nut.

Yup Sonax cleaner. That stuff is the bomb for wheels and engines and transmissions. If I were to go all OCD on it (or CDO depending on how bad you have it) I would h ave pulled out the small steam cleaner to get at the small crannies cleaned out.

There are no sensors for the 2nd set of cats. The new pipes have holes for sensors but they are not used.

Ask away. We have air cooled in the house too!

I Re read several times and figured it out. Nice job.
I live in Colorado with pretty stringent epa standards so am concerned about this car passing emissions minus second set of cats. I realize that many boxster owners live in California which has the harshest EPA standards in the country so would be interested in knowing what they do there if they delete. They also visually inspect here so without the second cats, they may ding one on the basis of the emissions control having been altered visually. However looking at this, it seems that I could reattach the old cats for the purposes of emissions and then run the straight pipes and be good to go.
Out of curiosity, what part of New York state do you live?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk