Brake job questions

[Coffinhunter]

I've searched the forum and taken in a lot of advice. Now I just have a few questions that I have not seen anything about.

1) When replacing the pads, do I have to replace the sensors too? They look like pretty flimsy wires in the pictures, but I don't know.

2) Advanced Auto parts has a vacuum type system for the brake lines/fluid. They will let me use it for free (a deposit in case I don't return it). Has anyone used it?

3) Since this is the first time I will be doing the brakes on the Boxster (and I am paranoid about this car, lol), is there a good "guide" for the job, including bleeding the brakes? Be it a post here, or youtube, or whatever.

[RandallNeighbour]

1. If the sensors have not been worn through (causing a dash warning light) you can inspect them, clean them up and re-use them. I do not replace mine unless the wire has been worn through and they need it.

2. Never used this, but I did buy a Motive Power Bleeder and it's an excellent addition to your shop and you can do fluid flushes by yourself. BTW, don't use just any brake fluid. Research this too and get the right stuff. It doesn't have to be Porsche brand, but it needs to be as good or better than Porsche brand.

3. I bought a Bentley Boxster repair book that is very helpful, but if you search YouTube for "boxster brake pad change" and "boxster brake fluid change" you'll find what you need to do the job.

Swapping pads is super easy and bleeding brake lines is also super easy. It's just a very dirty job.

[mnc-i]

CoffinHunter,

I have to agree with RandallNeighbour concerning brake jobs. Super easy.

Here are the two DYI links I used when I first changed brake pads and rotors.

Boxster Projects | Brakes | Change Pads

Boxster Projects | Brakes | Change Rotors

I took my car to a brake shop for brake fluid flushes/changes.

I only changed brake sensors if my brake wear light comes on or a brake sensor wire brakes (and in that case my brake sensor light came on).

I purchased my pads, sensors and rotors from RockAuto.

I purchased a brake kit (cotter pins, spring clip, retaining pins and extra caliber bolts) from Pelican Parts. The kit was cheap insurance.

When I changed the pads and rotors the first time, back in March 2011, all the parts cost me a approximately $180.00 including shipping.

Good Luck
MNC-I

[ilikeching]

Bleeding brakes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwvJxjqMYCQ&feature=youtu.be

Front brakes/rotors:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--6HLa3Vays&feature=relmfu

Rear Brake/rotors & adjusting handbrake:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DpC0lXHP5o

[Ckrikos]

I replaced the brakes on my boxster, 996 turbo and 12 Touareg. Brembo brakes are real easy to work on. If just changing pads it's a piece of cake. I replace all the hardware except the brake sensor, but if you want to go cheap I don't think there is any harm in leaving everything with exception to the pads and discs. Every time I have replaced the caliper bolts they look fine (very little rust on the threads), the pad retaining pin and clamps also usually look fine (just dirty). I would replace all, but if trying to cut corners I don't think there would be any detriment.


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[Coffinhunter]

Thanks so much everyone! This is my job for this weekend, and as usual this board has eased my mind.

[Coffinhunter]

I see on another thread someone recommended RockAuto Auto Parts. When I look at the brake pads they have, I don't recognize the brands. That may not mean anything, as I am not a mechanic and on previous cars used what Advanced Auto had in stock.

RockAuto Parts Catalog

That's the link for my car. Any recommendations? Does it matter if the front and rear are the same brand?

Man I feel stupid :dance:

[hancock1701]

Many people would recommend Textar or Mintex, and you would find those brands on PelicanParts or FCPEuro. I currently have Textar, and personally I prefer less dust. I've put Akebono ceramic pads on my sister's BMW. Those are great. No compromise in stopping power, but much less dust, almost none, so I'm gonna put Akebono on my Boxster next. RockAuto has pretty good prices on Akebono I think.

[Mark_T]

+1 on the Motive power bleeder. Go with the Black Label European model

Pedro's Garage has an excellent how-to on doing this job

You need to bleed the clutch as well as the brakes as they share a reservoir

I used the factory pad setup. Brembo's on the front, Textar on the rear. Works great and I don't care about the dust. It washes off.

[Pdwight]

I like "Red Stuff"

Good stuff

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Coffinhunter

Does it matter if the front and rear are the same brand?

Yes, front and rear pads should be the same brand and type. Otherwise, the front-to-rear brake bias/balance could be affected. Is it the end of the world if you did this? No. But is it a good idea? Also no.

[DrCactus]

I recieved my parts that I ordered off off RockAuto from the USA - the shipping was crazy fast and everything came in perfect condition. The clearance prices were great and I'm glad I took the risk....

[jdlmodelt]

Originally Posted by DrCactus

I recieved my parts that I ordered off off RockAuto from the USA - the shipping was crazy fast and everything came in perfect condition. The clearance prices were great and I'm glad I took the risk....

yep! Cheers! Enjoy!

[Carlisabadman986]

Originally Posted by mnc-i

CoffinHunter,


I purchased a brake kit (cotter pins, spring clip, retaining pins and extra caliber bolts) from Pelican Parts. The kit was cheap insurance.


Good Luck
MNC-I

2001 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible - Brake Pads & Rotors - Page 2

Is this what you are reffing to? The brake retainer kit? If so it does not seem cheap. I did my rear brakes a few years ago and bought this but I thought the cost was very high for what you are getting.

[mnc-i]

Carlisabadman986,

I just pulled out the second 3-ring binder of four containing all of my maintenance documents and stuff.

The four rotors and both sets of pads cost me $160.18. For some reason RockAuto gave me a $7.64 discount from the original price of $167.82. There was no cost for shipping and handling.

I am sorry, I think I misled you. I purchased a Brake Pad Retainer Kit for $34.50. The kit is intended to service 2 wheels, Front Boxster S (item # 996-351-959-01-M100). I also purchased two (2) Brake Rotor Securing Screws at .75 cent each for $1.50 (item #900-256-047-01-M100). The last item I purchased from Pelican parts was a Brake Caliper Mounting Screw at $5.25 each (item #999-073-402-01-M100). Shipping was $5.25 and the total spent was $46.50. I did not need any of that stuff, but I wanted to have replacements in the event I screwed something up.

Keep in mind I purchased these back in March 2011. At the time my car had 132,290 miles.
I changed pads this earlier this year because my brake sensor light came on, but it only came on because the wire to one of the sensors broke. I purchased the pads immediately after the light came on. When I took all the wheels off, I discovered I did not need new pads. All I needed was one new brake sensor. I changed the pads anyway. I had well over 200,000 miles when I changed the pads this last time. I have over 254,000 miles as of today.

MNC-I

[Deserion]

I wore the front sensors out, but replaced them on all four corners when I did a brake job last time.

Though they dust like a mutha, I like Textar pads (Pagid is also a great choice for OEM). I have Akebono ceramic front pads on my E320, and though they don't dust much I think the bite is a little less than what a standard OEM pad is.

[DrCactus]

Hey folks - I am now looking for a good place to buy my rotors (front and rear). Can anyone suggest a place that has some on sale or clearance ?? Thanks!

[RandallNeighbour]

DrCactus, check out RockAuto Parts Catalog

They usually have some amazing deals. In fact, they have Bendix (not a brand I've heard of before) for sale for front rotors for just $25 each!

Just make sure you buy rotors with painted hats or zinc coated so they don't rust. Conversely, if you can find really cheap (but good quality) rotors that don't have painted hats, you can always use high temp gray paint and spray them yourself.

[hancock1701]

Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour

Just make sure you buy rotors with painted hats or zinc coated so they don't rust. Conversely, if you can find really cheap (but good quality) rotors that don't have painted hats, you can always use high temp gray paint and spray them yourself.

This might be obvious to some, but what are the hats you're referring to?

[JayG]

Originally Posted by hancock1701

This might be obvious to some, but what are the hats you're referring to?

the part of the rotor that goes over the hub. looks like a hat