Car will not start?
 

On stands for 4 months now. Sheesh.

Got trans in today, and all smooth. Wanted to fire up motor but no exhaust yet.

Turns over great. Will not even try to start. Ideas?

Does the tach move?

If so, then check for pressure on the fuel rail in the engine bay.

Check to make sure your CPS (Crank Position sensor) is plugged in properly and make sure its not defective...

Didn't notice actually. What if it doesnt?

I wiped it off really well inside. Didn't check to see if plugged in.

See if the thing is firing, if not, well there are quite a few posts indicating how easy it is to bend a couple of the flywheel tabs making it hard for the crank position sensor to read the position of the crankshaft.

The Flywheel is brand new, and great care was taken to set it gently down.

Not even a sputter. Just turns over smooth.

Start with the basics then, look for fuel pressure, spark, and compression

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

Tach moves. I can smell gas. No ignition. Wanted to get it started before 100% reassemble.

Guess I'll start with fuel pressure. What's the best way to check for spark?

Ran perfect before IMS and trans R & R. Checked timing. Was perfect after two spins.

Pulled CPS. Still magnetic but looking for a new one now.

Just used an inspection camera and checked all the way around. Perfect.

Just need to find a CPS local. Don't know how to bench test it.

If you have a Ohm meter, pull the connector and put probes into pin 1 and 2 you should read around 800-1000 ohms, then repeat the same test for pin1 and 3 and it should show infinite (meaning open/as if not touching). If either of these is not the case I would replace the CPS.
Hope that helps
H

Let me guess: an aftermarket lightweight flywheel......

No. OEM from Pelican as part of a master kit. DMF

CPS ohms exactly as described above. Will reinstall.

Used a color inspection camera and looked at all the teeth on the flywheel. They are right there and perfect.

Thanks.

New clue. Windows do not drop when door is opened.

No moisture in immobilizer / alarm possible.

Fuel pressure and spark. Standard Schrader valve pressure tester.

Hmmm. Some of the immobilisers have a fuse on the unit itself

What is the procedure for testing for spark?

I'm here late tonight to fix this. :(

I can smell gas from exhaust, but have not checked pressure yet. Ran 100% perfect before this.

I do it cave man style, pull out a coil, stick a spark plug on it, ground the outside of the plug, and have someone crank while I look for spark at the plug.

But if it WAS the immobilizer would the engine crank over?

Dunno, can't remember that far back.. I guess I'm the beginning stages of Alzheimers. Been more than two years when I had a issue with an immobilizer

A couple of random thoughts....

1) Enough fuel in the tank for the pump pickup - is the car at an angle?
2) Old fuel.
3) Can you hear the fuel pump pressure up when ignition first switched on?
4) Set the throttle body - disconnect battery, reconnect, ignition switch on (no start) for 1 minute, switch off for 10 seconds then attempt start.
5) Check ALL electrical connections that could have possibly been compromised when transmission / clutch removed.
6) If you have spark (as per Health Services) spray engine start down throttle body and see if there's fire in the hold.
7) Durametric ?? if no spark?

Careful if the gas is flowing and the spark is not. A friend and I set his car on fire when we successfully figured out how to get the spark. Had a great time putting it out before the garage burned down. It was brilliant.

Nope. Just a BT OBD reader.

Thanks. Early tomorrow more testing.

Well, power down and back up and got windows working.

Separated from my wife last night, so I have lots of free time to finish this. Just need to get it to fire up before all the rear braces go on. Welded flat bolt together flanges on the exhaust where the slip clamps go. Less weight, no leaks.

Sad days and nights ahead. :(

So I have no spark but no dura. Any advise from here?

Thanks.

Timco - I am sorry to hear about this. I have been walking down that road for almost two years now. Hang in there. It will get better.

Timco I'm sorry to hear that.

Thank you both. Really tough times. (Emotionally. Work is super busy. )

Not sure how two people start seeing things so differently 10 years later.

It gets bitter, then just mean, then feelings are totally ignored. :mad:

Overcoming this car start thing is a good thing to not think about the home I built for 10 years or my chickens or Sparky. :(:(:(

It happens. I truly wish you the best. I agree that the car is a great distraction. Hang in there.

Well I want to say sorry to hear about the separation, some times it's for the better. Split from my ex-wife back in 2004, it was tough at first, but I have to say I have immensely enjoyed my life without her. I will probably never get married again, love my freedom.

Wish you would get your dang car working. I have no clue what to tell you on that.

You live in Utah... Can't you have like ten wives??

You live in Utah... Can't you have like ten wives??:)

Sorry to hear about your separation. No spark starts back the CPS. I know the electronic part buzzed out, but in situations like this I look at what I've messed with, and go over each item. Unless the immobilizer might have been damaged with the seat out I'd be looking at that last. I'd figure out which wiring harness connections control spark and focus on them, then the wires between them. After this you can have two Sparkys with the car being the second. Hang in there.

Thanks. Never pulled the seats and never touched the relay blocks in the rear trunk. Every wire looks fine. Looks like Durametric time....

My understanding is that if you see RPM on the tach, then the CPS is working. No CPS= no RPM on the tach.

To test a spark plug you can just take one out and look at it while you try to crank the car. Be sure to hold it with something insulated or else the spark may get you. Harbor Freight also sells a little device that the spark plugs screws into, and then you put it in the spark plug well, and I think it lights up. I bought it when troubleshooting my son's Ford Ranger no start problem (turned out to be a g-force fuel cut off switch)

However, the wheel/notches that turns that the CPS looks at - does it come off during any part of the process? The reason I ask is that on the Miata that wheel does come off as part of a timing belt change and if you put it back on backwards you get RPM and spark plugs firing, but at the wrong times so the engine doesn't start. Flipping that wheel around and it started right up. I could be way off base. [Edit I just looked up some parts diagrams and it looks like I am way off base here :) ]

Good luck.

Steve

On the other, I went through the same thing in 2009 - it was a rough time filled with a lot of self doubt. There was no reconciliation and ultimately things got a lot better but it was a rough time. Best wishes.

The teeth are welded on or a permanent part of the DMF. The CPS never was moved or removed. I used a color inspection camera and checked the teeth.

Shot a bit of starting fluid in the TB. No kick at all. Has to be spark related. Car on the ground and just needs engine cover & access hole closed, and it's on the road. Just need some spark. Talk about self doubt!! I've examined the compartments and every single fuse. :(

I have a Durametric and I'm not sure what good it will do you if the car is not running. It brings up all of the proprietary information, and allows turning on and off items that the computer normally does, like the SAI blower. I'm not sure how much good that will do if the engine is not running. If anyone has any tips on using one to troubleshoot a non-start feel free to chime in.

+1 (why is there a ten letter minimum message size?)

Make double sure all grounds are connected and good.

I think it is immobiliser - it will kill spark but still let you crank. so, security system is still on although doors are unlocked. try locking/unlocking doors w/ key and with fob. still got rf pill in fob?