I was sure hopeful, but nope. Not this. Car locks / unlocks fine.

Cranks great. Never even a puff or ignition of any kind. I'll look deeply into all grounds this evening to pass time I guess.

Damn. Car is on the ground, ready to try new clutch & all I did, and no fire up. :mad:

never mind...

Did you mess with the area around the ignition key? If the transponder coil is unplugged it won't start even though the rest of the immobilizer/central locking unit is good.

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I have been following this. Heiko's idea of the CPS may be worth looking at again. Can't hurt.

Never touched the switch. Not saying it isn't that, but never worked up there.

Someone posted how to test that and it ohmed out just like they said it would. Still replace?

Then it has to be the new flywheel that's at fault - you have checked everything else that you have touched, moved or replaced....

Ugh. Straight from Pelican, perfectly identical. As I mentioned, I removed the CPS, and used a color inspection camera and watched the teeth rotate right past the camera face. Seemed perfect.

Really does seem like no spark. None at all. Beyond pissed about it at this point.

Would a Durametric say CPS failure or failure to see crank position?

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http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscuhldjgs.jpg

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Timco,
Did you do the caveman spark test to 100% prove no spark? At this point you need data. The flywheel looks great. It is suspect because it is new, but I would not be taking it out without a whole lot more trouble shooting.

I've only run my Durametric a handful of times (around 10) so I'm a newbie. It works by reading the computer inputs when the engine is running. I don't think it is much help with the engine off.

<a href="https://imgflip.com/i/lwbmu"><img src="https://i.imgflip.com/lwbmu.jpg" title="made at imgflip.com"/></a>

Having a buddy come over to crank it so I don't have to rig the cave man test for solo experimentation.

As to the flywheel, it's like Miller Light.

Fellas, it just doesn't get any better than this.......

Fusible power distribution links are fine. Tried setting throttle after power up.

Have to buy a larger pressure gauge to fit the fuel rail shader. Doing that next.

Sorry to bump like this, but my AC gauges fit that fuel pressure shrader. With key on, zero psi took gauge off, pushed stem in, no gas.
secondary air pump not coming in either.

New suggestions to T/S?

Thanks a ton.

Search for the procedure to jump the fuel pump relay and see if that gets you pressure.

Bentley covers this.

No change with terminals jumped. No sound, no pressure.

I actually do hear SAI come on, it's just for 5-10 seconds.

So what are the odds the fuel pump takes a powder after a 4 month rest? I had dire predictions for my fuel pump after my box sat for nearly 2 years without running, thankfully wrong. There has to be a way to provide 12V directly to the fuel pump to make sure it is working, AFTER the cave man test shows spark. This goes against the initial post where gas was evident by smelling it, but at this point it's a game of elimination.

And the SAI doesn't do squat, except set a CEL, and cost a boatload of cash.

Anything's better than having to put it back on jackstands and pull the tranny.:cheers:

More worrisome than getting back together with my wife!

(Almost)

Fuel pressure pump cuts off if the engine does start for safety reasons. Durametric or the RPM Gauge doesn't register until the engine is turning over 800 RPM - one or the other - I can't remember. The starter doesn't turn the engine fast enough to register. My CPS quit without a single hiccup. The car started - an hour later nothing.

My fuel rail would build pressure - if released - when the pump ran for the short burst it would build pressure. So for me that ruled out fuel delivery issues.
If I remember correctly - there was compression - so I semi ruled out timing.
No error codes showed up in the Durametric to indicate any other issues.
So I tossed in a Pelican CPS. She started fine after it was installed.

So, scenario. Key is turned but no crank. Doesn't the fuel pump instantly make 55lbs or 3.8 bar? I'm not getting any pressure at all.

Second, Bently described how to pull the fuel pump relay, and jump the two terminals that would kick the fuel pump on, but I can't make it run with key in or out or turned to run position.

Bought new battery just in case. :confused:

As you have probably guessed, the fuel pump will not start until the engine is running, apart from the initial few seconds run when the ignition is first switched on.
To get the pump to run, are you removing the relay and jumpering pins #30 & #87 (they are labelled #3 & #5 on the relay).
When you switch on the ignition, the pump should run - if not you have a pump problem....

Pulled the harness. 13v for a second then 9.8v while cranking. I'll pull that relay and check voltage with the jumper in place. Then if it has juice, it's the pump. :eek:

With that jumped out, I only ever see 3-4v. Never says 12-13.

Then with relay back in its as described above.

I don't recall how much pressure it would build. I was running off of data from Bentley or 101 Projects.

I'm not versed enough in the fuel system to know that this is correct, but it sounds a whole lot like a pump problem, pump not running with startup power and zero fuel pressure. That said, you are using and AC Schrader fitting to measure the fuel rail pressure and the AC Schrader fitting may not depress the valve core in the fuel rail Schrader valve sufficiently to allow a pressure reading. One way to find out is to depress the Schrader valve core to see if fuel comes out. If the system is up to pressure the pump may not run when the key is initially turned on.

Timco, just a heads-up. If the fuel pump is indeed bad, you may also want to change out the sending unit as well. I went through 2 or 3 new OE pumps on mine when the fuel filter (inside the sending unit) was clogged and I didn't get any fuel pressure. Pumps lasted all of 15 miles each after swapping. :rolleyes:

I ended up with lightly-used pump and sending unit from DC Auto. No problems since.

I always thought the filter was in the pump. Learn something new every day. Porsche says it's a lifetime filter and never needs to be replaced lol.

I absolutely tried manually depressing the stem and zero fuel. Nada.

In the words of Ted Striker.........

What a pisser.........

FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT | Genuine Porsche | 996-620-832-02

FUEL GAUGE SEAL | Genuine Porsche | 1J0-919-133-A

FUEL PUMP | Genuine Porsche | 996-620-132-00

interesting...

I just happen to replace mine last week!!!!


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I could not wait as it was my daily driver so I just got it from o'reillys. notice it does not come with the vibration insulators....

250.00 but you can find for up to $125 less if you shop online and wait

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1432443513.jpg

Be sure to properly secure your pump to the bottom of the tank, I actually had a boxster that had one not latch to the bottom and it would always run out of gas at 1/4 tank until i pulled the pump.

Going to pull the pump and bench test it. Nothing better to do. Called around, none on the shelf anyway unless Porsche has one tomorrow.

So, with a Durametric, I can turn each of these items on and off and check them that way with key on? Is that a feature of this tester?

Ummm, no. Have to siphon gas out, get a glove, and I'll want to swap hose by hose with the new one. I'll order both. Thanks KRAM. I'll check locally tomorrow then order what I can't get. If a pump is local I'll do that since its easy to get to the sending unit.

Timco,

This is for a 2003 with 7.8 DME so your Durametric mileage may vary, but here are the activations available for the 7.8 DME.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1432520159.jpg

So, under normal conditions, what sends voltage to the FP? If I can't get 12v constant to the FP connector with the jumper in place and relay removed, it seems I need to be tracking down an electrical issue, no? Parts guy at Porsche SLC said in 15 years he's never sold a fuel pump for a Boxster.

Is FP always on while car is on? It can only ever deliver the 3.8 bar or whatever it was?

Seems like that will kick on the relay and test the pump. If key is on pump should run. Going to buy one today me thinks.

You only get fuel signal for a couple of seconds after the key is on, then it waits for a signal from the ecu.

Ive done several pumps for the boxsters, in general and if O Reilly stocked it, it means there is a demand for this style pump whether it is from Porsche or vw.

I noticed on mine as soon as you put the jumper on, the pump is on. Ill take a picture of the pump so you know which wires later.

But that's the thing. I didn't get pump on with jumper, key on or off.