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-   -   Car will not start? (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57247)

Timco 05-22-2015 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Radium King (Post 450797)
I think it is immobiliser - it will kill spark but still let you crank. so, security system is still on although doors are unlocked. try locking/unlocking doors w/ key and with fob. still got rf pill in fob?

I was sure hopeful, but nope. Not this. Car locks / unlocks fine.

Cranks great. Never even a puff or ignition of any kind. I'll look deeply into all grounds this evening to pass time I guess.

Damn. Car is on the ground, ready to try new clutch & all I did, and no fire up. :mad:

particlewave 05-22-2015 04:45 PM

never mind...

78F350 05-22-2015 06:01 PM

Did you mess with the area around the ignition key? If the transponder coil is unplugged it won't start even though the rest of the immobilizer/central locking unit is good.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1427347141.jpg

Chuck W. 05-22-2015 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heiko (Post 450411)
Check to make sure your CPS (Crank Position sensor) is plugged in properly and make sure its not defective...

I have been following this. Heiko's idea of the CPS may be worth looking at again. Can't hurt.

Timco 05-22-2015 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350 (Post 450824)
Did you mess with the area around the ignition key? If the transponder coil is unplugged it won't start even though the rest of the immobilizer/central locking unit is good.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1427347141.jpg

Never touched the switch. Not saying it isn't that, but never worked up there.

Timco 05-22-2015 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck W. (Post 450827)
I have been following this. Heiko's idea of the CPS may be worth looking at again. Can't hurt.

Someone posted how to test that and it ohmed out just like they said it would. Still replace?

Steve Tinker 05-23-2015 12:19 AM

Then it has to be the new flywheel that's at fault - you have checked everything else that you have touched, moved or replaced....

Timco 05-23-2015 03:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker (Post 450853)
Then it has to be the new flywheel that's at fault - you have checked everything else that you have touched, moved or replaced....

Ugh. Straight from Pelican, perfectly identical. As I mentioned, I removed the CPS, and used a color inspection camera and watched the teeth rotate right past the camera face. Seemed perfect.

Really does seem like no spark. None at all. Beyond pissed about it at this point.

Would a Durametric say CPS failure or failure to see crank position?

Timco 05-23-2015 04:01 AM

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...psghdm7ehb.jpg

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscuhldjgs.jpg

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps83pwfvwj.jpg

Timco 05-23-2015 05:21 AM

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...psl270c5a8.jpg

Jamesp 05-23-2015 05:25 AM

Timco,
Did you do the caveman spark test to 100% prove no spark? At this point you need data. The flywheel looks great. It is suspect because it is new, but I would not be taking it out without a whole lot more trouble shooting.

Jamesp 05-23-2015 05:32 AM

I've only run my Durametric a handful of times (around 10) so I'm a newbie. It works by reading the computer inputs when the engine is running. I don't think it is much help with the engine off.

Timco 05-23-2015 05:37 AM

<a href="https://imgflip.com/i/lwbmu"><img src="https://i.imgflip.com/lwbmu.jpg" title="made at imgflip.com"/></a>

Timco 05-23-2015 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamesp (Post 450871)
Timco,
Did you do the caveman spark test to 100% prove no spark? At this point you need data. The flywheel looks great. It is suspect because it is new, but I would not be taking it out without a whole lot more trouble shooting.

Having a buddy come over to crank it so I don't have to rig the cave man test for solo experimentation.

As to the flywheel, it's like Miller Light.

Fellas, it just doesn't get any better than this.......

Timco 05-23-2015 07:59 AM

Fusible power distribution links are fine. Tried setting throttle after power up.

Have to buy a larger pressure gauge to fit the fuel rail shader. Doing that next.

Timco 05-23-2015 08:08 AM

Sorry to bump like this, but my AC gauges fit that fuel pressure shrader. With key on, zero psi took gauge off, pushed stem in, no gas.
secondary air pump not coming in either.

New suggestions to T/S?

Thanks a ton.

JFP in PA 05-23-2015 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timco (Post 450892)
Sorry to bump like this, but my AC gauges fit that fuel pressure shrader. With key on, zero psi took gauge off, pushed stem in, no gas.
secondary air pump not coming in either.

New suggestions to T/S?

Thanks a ton.

Search for the procedure to jump the fuel pump relay and see if that gets you pressure.

Timco 05-23-2015 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA (Post 450895)
Search for the procedure to jump the fuel pump relay and see if that gets you pressure.

Bentley covers this.

No change with terminals jumped. No sound, no pressure.

I actually do hear SAI come on, it's just for 5-10 seconds.

Jamesp 05-23-2015 11:45 AM

So what are the odds the fuel pump takes a powder after a 4 month rest? I had dire predictions for my fuel pump after my box sat for nearly 2 years without running, thankfully wrong. There has to be a way to provide 12V directly to the fuel pump to make sure it is working, AFTER the cave man test shows spark. This goes against the initial post where gas was evident by smelling it, but at this point it's a game of elimination.

Jamesp 05-23-2015 11:47 AM

And the SAI doesn't do squat, except set a CEL, and cost a boatload of cash.


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