Oil Light
 

I had an oil light come on last night, happened in a really really tight curve that I took fast. I have had one come on when going over the really sharp hill at the top of my driveway when going really too fast and the car pulled a little negative G force. I keep a tight watch on my oil level and it is to the top of the marked indicator on my dip stick.....thinking out loud could it be the plastic baffle in the oil pan has deformed and allows the oil to "slosh" or displace more than it should..?

I also change my oil before it goes away for the winter and then in the dead of summer so it never even turns color, my car never uses a drop and never smokes ??

My magnetic drain plug is clean except for the finest of coatings that is about as thick as a flys wings, I have 70K miles on her

A but confused

Dwight

This could be as simple as a faulty sender unit - replacements aren't too expensive I believe.

To be 100% sure that you don't have an oil pressure problem, I would temporarily fit an oil pressure gauge. A mechanical gauge is simple but difficult to read while driving unless you have a long tube from the engine to the gauge....
VDO used to make a kit which consists of an electrical sender unit and a gauge (of different required pressures) which can show you real time pressures while driving. I fitted one to my Ducati (temp installation) and SAAB (permanent installation) with good results. It will be a bit of buggering about with some wiring to the sender unit, but its well worth it for the piece of mind.

No matter what anybody tries to tell you, the rotors could not have caused this.....No matter how worn or new the pads are.

Totally unrelated problems. Start there.

I dunno, ECS is a pretty reputable company...

What if the rotors are really, really, worn out, and has a really, really thick lip???

:D

+1
hopefully this wont lead on to small furry animals LOL

Also Tim, I just sent you a PM, I think it may be useful to you :cheers:

And here I was just hoping it was a bad tail light bulb. ...LOL

In the very unlikely case the rotors are not the issue, I myself would just replace the oil switch as it is not expensive. Check the lead to see it is not grounding out either.

Local store has them

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429636160.jpg



Of course pull the wheels and check the brake rotors first.

:D

You guys are likely correct but just in case have them do a boroscope of the IMS through the sump plug hole. You can't be too careful. Oh yeah, and make sure the radiators are clear of debris.

If you are using sticky tires then sometimes the oil can be pulled away from the oil pickup tube during extreme maneuvers, like in this picture. These tires are known as "Extreme" sticky tires and are recommended for the track only.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429642264.jpg

from what I understand the dodge charger has a different oiling system than the m-96 engines. the problem may not be in the car as much as having bo duke driving it like it was the featured vehicle in a late 70's early 80's comedy, which may be used as a display of how not to drive. negative g's over hilltops? think cars with considerably more suspension travel :rolleyes:

"I need that guy's eye", "It's important to me!"

Well this thread has gone waay off track
 

I have had the oil light three times in two years

Do threads ever stay on track after the 3rd post?
 

Hopefully you will stay on top of it and not blow it off.




Oh, what is the condition of the rotors??? :rolleyes:

Truth
 

As Ristin of "The Race" would say :cheers:

When I posted that in your other thread is was for fun and meant as a joke.

This

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581398.jpg

equaled this

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581419.jpg

and you said it wasn't possible.

Lets go over what James posted in the thread where you said it couldn't happen.

:rolleyes:

I was laughing as I typed that. Of course it was a joke.

As I am sure I mentioned, that can only happen with severely worn pads and a very worn rotor. Only one scenario, and there it is. What do you suppose the measured depth of that notch is? If the rotor was not way past spec, or if the pad was any reasonable thickness, that could not happen. And, if the rotors wear into a lip edge by design, physics would dictate that to be the very first part of the rotor to touch the wire (only if the pad was allowed to wear down that far) every time, so the statement that ECM made was pretty meaningless. Like they were trying to express some superior knowledge on the subject when in reality, THE PAD WEARS AGAINST THE ROTOR UNTIL THE SENSOR WIRE IN THE PAD GROUNDS TO THE ROTOR.

I will also add, you worded your (or their) statement misleadingly. A sensor wire CANNOT be cut by a rotor getting worn by itself (detecting a worn rotor vs worn pads) if pads are decent. IT REQUIRES PADS TO BE WELL BELOW ACCEPTABLE THICKNESS FOR A SENSOR TO TOUCH A ROTOR.

If you don't put gas in your car, it won't start. Now, what's actually happening is the fuel pump has no pressure, and that means........

Now, for that oil light, have you dropped the pan? Sure your pick-up screen is clean?

As you laughed you typed.

That's incorrect and misleading because now you know it can happen.

With new pads, I agree very unlikely.

Actually, I stand behind my statement because no matter how worn or new the pads are, they cannot have anything to do with his oil light, as I clearly stated. :D

Agreed, but look what you did to his thread. It's a mess of crud, when he needed true honest help with the issue.

Actually we are still waiting on the very a respected company to chime in... ECS.

I'm sure Kram will email and get to the bottom of this as he is our ambassador and contact to them. Until they have their say Kram will always be right, have the last word, and the rest of us wrong. :rolleyes:







Besides who gives a poop about the OP and and what his concerns are? :confused:
(lol, hope you know when I'm joking...)



But in all honesty I think the pressure sensor and pulling the pan to look at the trap doors and pickup is a good start...



That is if Kram says its okay.


https://media0.giphy.com/media/PJ2pRVwuGiEiQ/200.gif

ECS has nothing to do with this. I'm not always right. Stop being butthurt because I would by a Pierburg water pump from FDC even though you had bad luck with some parts you got from them.

http://media.giphy.com/media/szU7m4hKn2jsc/giphy.gif

Yes, my butt hurts because you buy from a company I had bad luck with. :rolleyes:

I know you are, glad to see you admit it. You haven't acted so childish towards me since then.

OMG you are so right again!

and I am such a child!




:dance:

You keep proving it. You think you're being cute and adding in pictures, but you're not. Just a child behind a pc is all you're showing.

:matchup:

I'm just going to sit back and see how far this hijacked thread goes.

BTW, Pdwight, have you resolved your oil light issue? That was the issue, correct?

Here's a similar thread, and it was resolved by the oil sensor:

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/56569-oil-level.html

Checking the lip on the brake rotors is now going to be step 1 for all procedures from now on, replacing the "check for both rear fog lights working" step. :dance:

Dude. It's like we said your name too many times. KRAM36, KRAM36, KRAM......

I made one joke based on his other thread, and offered my opinion or suggestions to the oil light. Sorry you didn't appreciate it. You dissected my joke into your issue with rotor edges, and brought a mess of pics in to prove it. Please, let it go.

All new members:

Both fog lights work?

Rotor edge condition and distance from the sensor wire?

Type of oil??

Pics of wife?

Pics of car?

Welcome!!

Love how you put 'pics of wife' ahead of 'pics of car'. A man with his priorities straight! As long as the wife looks as good as the car.

http://media.giphy.com/media/12XYXZMDDqHChy/giphy.gif





http://myreactiongifs.com/gifs/thumbsupcomputerkid.gif


But all grown up now

http://i.imgur.com/9QXry71.gif

Nice, this site has an ignore list. :)

That's cool I forgot about that, something actually productive you said rather than just trying to get the last word on every conversation.

http://media.giphy.com/media/LVIbmaUwpRJ1C/giphy.gif

I ate an earthworm once on a dare. It went down easy 'cause it was covered in slime. ;)

Here's a potato.

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...DC508DDE16.jpg

Could be the oil was thrown above the pickup tube for moment and you picked up some air. Seems like having a plugged pickup would show up a lot, not sure why negative g's would make that worse. Sure hope THIS post doesn't cavort through other strings. Posting no pictures just to make sure (and the rotor ALWAYS wears through the sensor wire given a chance- it's just a question of where). :D

Not just a potato...

A BAKED POTATO! :cool:

You did not do that with a worn out rotor did you?

I wonder if a sticky trap door on the sump can cause that.

Only if the rotor edge cut into it first. Then it could ground out and stick.

maybe you need to do a finger check on oil pan drain hole