If you have replaced the engine mount....a question

[Pdwight]

I'm in the beginning process of this, I got my car up at the top of the jack stands..or about 18 inches. I scotched (single blend )the front tires and removed the tray, then loosened the bolts slightly...just broke them to movement....and I thought this is not going to be that difficult....and then I tried to put some pressure on the pan to support the engine....it is so high I had to use my largest floor jack and a urethane jacking puck......and then the $#*&^% jack is in the way so I cannot work....tried it from the side and it is still very much right in the middle of everything.....any suggestions ??

Thanks in advance

Dwight

[Krieger]

Hey Dwight. I just did this two weeks ago. I used a car ramp I had. You know one of those angled ramps with a flat spot you drive up on? I put that directly under the engine and then I used a scissors jack, just like the one in your front trunk, on top of the ramp. If you use the factory jack it has a bump on top of it, so you might have to come up with something. Maybe drill a hole in a 2x4 to fit it. A hydraulic jack might lose pressure and leave you in a bad situation...

[particlewave]

+1

I have not done this one yet, but I'm planning to and read a write up recently that suggested that the scissors jack is the way to go.


Edit: post #13 http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/37615-boxster-motor-mount-tips-pointers.html

[Pdwight]

Will try the scissor jack tomorrow after work...did you guys use locktite on the bolts ?

[mikesz]

I have pressure treated "blocks". Maybe a foot to a foot and a half long maybe 8x8 and put the scissor jack on top of that to support the engine. Worked fine and I could get under to replace the water pump, thermostat, and front engine mount.

[ppbon]

Install Front Engine Mount

As stated above a scissors jack to support the engine is the best solution. It's also the safest solution since it's a mechanical, not a hydraulic jack.

Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Originally Posted by Pdwight

I'm in the beginning process of this, I got my car up at the top of the jack stands..or about 18 inches. I scotched (single blend )the front tires and removed the tray, then loosened the bolts slightly...just broke them to movement....and I thought this is not going to be that difficult....and then I tried to put some pressure on the pan to support the engine....it is so high I had to use my largest floor jack and a urethane jacking puck......and then the $#*&^% jack is in the way so I cannot work....tried it from the side and it is still very much right in the middle of everything.....any suggestions ??

Thanks in advance

Dwight

[Krieger]

No locktight. I never found a torque for the four studs. I put the studs into the body at around 15-18 lbs. torque the nuts to spec. Sorry I cant remember that and no access now

[kk2002s]

+1 Scissors jack
Use a piece of wood to distribute pressure point
Scissors also allows you to raise and lower motor while you work under there. You'll need every inch of working space to get your hands/wrenches on those bolts
Can't remember if I used Locktite. I'm thinking I did

[Pdwight]

THanks everyone, I'm off to busted knuckles time......LOL

[jrj3rd]

Engine support bar from the top. Great to have in the arsenal as it comes in very handy and leaves the underside completely clear.

[Pdwight]

Just got 2 of the 4 studs out...can it be done without removing the coolant hoses ??

[san rensho]

Originally Posted by Krieger

No locktight. I never found a torque for the four studs. I put the studs into the body at around 15-18 lbs. torque the nuts to spec. Sorry I cant remember that and no access now

No. Im pretty sure that 15 is way too low. Pedros write up has the torque specs for the studs. They are pretty high, in the 30 to 40 ft-lbs if i remember. If you dont torque them to the right spec, they will pull out when you put the nuts on them and you will be in a world of ******************** trying to get a a helicoil in there. Be warned.

[Pdwight]

I torqued all those to 35 ft lbs per Pedro's instructions. I simply installed the 4 studs using a 1/4 inch drive 7mm socket until they bottomed out and were tight...then the nuts. The bolts that you never actually take out are the ones I could not get a torque wrench on. If the coolant hoses were removed it would be a pretty easy job.

[dghii]

No need to remove hoses but you need to unclamp them from their holder just forward of the mount. You can maneuver the mount out by pressing on the hoses.

[Krieger]

Yes it can be done! I read on Pedro's Garage to lower the engine 3" to help facilitate removing the mount. I did this with no problems. The scissors jack is your friend. I also loosened the brackets on the under body for the coolant pipes so they could drop a little.

[Krieger]

Pedro posted his link in a previous post. It was helpful for me.

[Pdwight]

Got it done.....whew....like building a ship in a bottle

[Krieger]

Nice! Now drive it like you stole it!

[Pdwight]

The old mount was holding by a thread,the rubber material was shrunken and gone for the most part. If I ever have to do this again I will definitely drain and remove the coolant hoses....they were the most difficult part of this job. I could not get a torque wrench on the top two bolts...I got it tight and it will have to do, I torqued everything else to the correct torque and the two bolts that go trough the center of the mount did have locktite on them...I used red since you have to have it out anyway to change the mount. I also installed the new rear control arms so as soon as my headlights get back I am set...the rear wheel bearings will have to wait until after the wedding.

Thanks for everyone's help

especially Pedro my old friend

Dwight

[mikesz]

Wedding? What wedding?